Oldsmobile Regency - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

It is a mute point because you can't do this yourself. Your system has air in it plus moisture. All that need sucking out with a refrigerant gas recovery machine to create a very strong vacuum, then the system is checked for leaks. Only then is the refrigerant gas installed by weight. Freon is the brand name for a gas that is no longer used. There is a sticker in the engine bay that tells you the weight of gas and the amount of oil. This explains, take it to a shop that does AC. https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29878326-recharging_vehicle_air_conditioner ..

Maybe it helps https://www.autogenius.info/category/oldsmobile/oldsmobile-regency/

Its on the passenger side of the heat duct mounted with 2 screws

Where is the starter fues

The blower resistor may be going bad and need replacing. Does it do it only on one or any fan speed? I'm not sure where that particular part is located for it has been number of years I have looked at vehicles older than 18 yrs. but I hope this steers you in the right direction. Jesus loves you, John 3:16-17 (KJV)

I think you could use this manual method instead.. My nephew used it to repair my car and it's totally perfectly fine now. Here's the website he bought it from. www.reliable-store.com

Brother, it's just the fact that there is STILL air in your system. Just fill the master cylinder, open the left front line and let it run into a bottle to catch it for a bit until you know for sure all air is gone from that line. Then do the same with the right front. Then the left rear, then right rear. This is gravity bleeding, no pumping required. It's the only way to know for sure that each wheel cylinder and line is free of air. Only let the master cylinder drain down about half way each time the tighten each bleeder. Refill with the drained fluid. Be patient my friend, it takes time to do it right, but it works for me every time. Good day.

It could be several different problems. If you want to guess then start with the drivers master switch.

If your saying it wont spin over the engine than the starter is going bad. If it spins over but won't start then try a fuel filter.

GM doesn't believe in making things easy. No access panel

GET THAT COOLANT SENSOR CHECKED

How do you know it's surging? In any case, about the only thing that can cause this is a faulty regulator in the alternator, or a poor wiring connection (e.g. battery cable or at alternator).

Do you know if your 98 has adaptive lamp monitor module ? Do you know how to read a wiring diagram ? Thier is no relay for the headlmps on your vehicle ! Do you know how to test automotive electrical circuits with a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ! Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size . Under system click on lighting then under subsystem click on headlamps . Now watch these videos on electrical testing and basic's . These guy's are professional tech's . Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know The Trainer 32 How To Read An Automotive Block Wiring Diagram Basic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens Shorts

How long since overall tune-up? Use a gage and check proper fuel pressure, key on engine off. vin K 48--55 psi. Also, check that the fuel pressure will hold for bit, with the key off. Check fuel trims when problem is ongoing, see if trying to add or remove fuel? If temp related check the coolant temp sensor. Over-fueling on a hot engine can make it hard to start. Pushing the pedal to the floor should put it in "clear flood mode" and help it to start. Could be other issues?

Have you checked the vacuum line with a gauge? If so, how many pascal units does the vacuum line read? Vacuum gauges are around $5. Furthermore, I believe the design is sealed vacuum only system. The solenoid could be bad, but to my knowledge it is not an electrical component. A split in one of the vacuum lines could be cause of your problem. You would have to trace the all the vacuum lines back to the source to find the problem. You would need that gauge to detect a leak in the system. Could also replace all the vacuum lines on principle since the vehicle is going on two decades.

most likely a failed flasher can or flasher control module

Sorry Doris. It is the transmission is gone.

Don't waste you time. You have to go back to 95 or 96 to be able to swap parts.

On earlier charging systems that used a separate voltage regulator some used a separate unit to control the ignition light and this might be the trouble - check with a wiring diagram. If it is a an integrated regulator type the warning light wire connects directly to the alternator and all it does is ground the earthy side of the battery light through the rotor winding until the regulator begins to energise the rotor via the auxiliary diodes. With smart charging systems and probably with later CANbus systems the battery light is controlled by black boxes.

Have you asked an auto parts store to test the charging system? Usually free.