1990 Oldsmobile Regency - Answered Questions & Fixed issues
1990 Olds 98 Regency Brougham - Programming Keyless Entry
Same car same problem, but I found the plug w/two wires behind the glove box. It is on a brace on the left hand side, has a clip holding it there. Lift up on the clip and it slides off.
I jumpered those two wires, the door locks did not cycle as was in the instructions and remote still doesn't work.
Sounds to me like I'm missing power from somewhere, but where?
Hope you find your wires and they work for you.
Voltage regulator
It could be that your alternator has an internal short or you have a loose connection between the battery and the alternator. It could also be in the ECM if the vehicle is new enough to have that type of voltage regulator.
Why am i not recieving sparks from the coilpack?
You need battery power and timing control from the engine. They spark is created is to energize the coil and then remove the voltage, creating a large spark on the secondary side. I don't really know if this is electronic ignition or the old points and distributor system, but I would look to see that power is getting to the primary side of the coil pack.
I have a 1990 Olds 98 with a charging problem. THe battery is good and the alt is new. It is not charging
You need to test your charging system circuits at the alternator. (see diagram and instructions)BLK is the cable to the battery POSITIVE terminal - this is hot at all times.PINK/BLACK comes from Fuse #5 (15 Amp) in the relay center under the right side of the instrument panel. This wire is hot (battery voltage) with the ignition switch in the RUN, BULB TEST, or START positions.BROWN comes from your instrument panel and is protected by Fuse #16 (20 Amp) in the instrument panel left side fuse block. This wire will have slightly less than battery voltage with the ignition switch in the RUN, BULB TEST, or START positions.If any of this is not as described, let me know what you have found and we can continue if needed.
Where are the bolts to
There are only 2 bolts. They go straight up through the starter motor housing into the engine block. You may have some plastic covers that go around the starter and flywheel area that will need to be removed to get to them.
The fuel gauge seems to
you can try tapping (lightly) on the gauge pod to see if the needle moves-it might be hung up but really no one with a GM is that lucky...the sender unit has probably just bought the farm, actually for a 1990, that's pretty good. GM's are notorious for that, you will now have to clear out your tripometer when you fill your tank, and get a handle on how many miles it takes before you get dangerously low on fuel...
How do you get the
Un bolt it pull it out. Most likely it will be a bad magnet on the cam sprocket. Over time they will fall apart. The timing cover will need to come off to repair along with the cam gear.
I can't get the tie
grab the tie rod end very tite with vice grips. loosen clamp on tie rod near ball joint fit wrench or more vice grips on ball joint. try to turn the tie rod it would help to soak the threads awhile with w-d 40 or heat the tie rod where it screws in the bal joint with a propane or some type torch. before removing the tie rod count the number of turns it takes to get it out so when you put it back your front end will still be aligned. i believe it would be smart to knock the tie rod end loose before anything else. remove cottre pi and nut from bottom of tie rod end. you can use a tie rod separator that looks like afuning fork or just crawl under the ****** and beat the hell out of the tie rod bolt,not always easy,use heavy hammer.dont beat the bolt if you plan to reuse the tie rod end cause you'll never get a nut back on it. most rental shops have tie rod seperators auto zone loans them usually. good luck from sunny austin fx
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