Chevrolet C1500 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 2

Like for like. That unit is electronic.

Here https://www.google.com/search?q=89+c1500+starter+relay ..

Glad you solved it.

That is a lot of stuff not working. That is three separate circuits. Although the brake lamps and the turn signals all go through the multifunction switch, a bad multifunction switch would not explain why the running/park lamps are not working because they do not go through the multifunction switch on your truck.With all that said, the only thing I can find in common with all 3 of these circuits is ground # G410. If this ground is bad or broken, none of these circuits will work.G410 bolts to the left frame rail just forward of the rear bumper. There are 3 or 4 wires that should be connected to it. Check and make sure that it is not corroded or broken. I have seen a few where I had to cut the wire ends and install new ends, then grind out a clean spot in the frame and drill a new hole for a bolt to go into because the original ground point was completely unusable due to corrosion.

It sounds like current is feeding into the start wire off the switch. Trace the wire from the clutch switch to the ignition switch connector. Does the wire look good? Examine closely the connector and see if you see a burnt terminal, or some broken plastic in the connector, some way for the start wire to pick up current. If you see nothing wrong, IDK, probably will need a shop to chase the wiring down and find it. I don't know if a bad starter relay (stuck on) could do that, likely not if it only happens when you depress clutch and have clutch switch on.Good luck.

It's on the driver's side about half way up the dash. Almost ,kinda sorta by the back of the headlight switch. They're a pain in the ***. If I remember right I used to take the head light switch out to get it.

the fuel level sender is inside the fuel tank, part of the fuel pump assembly. did you or was the tank replaced before??they may have bent the float arm on reassembly . you can buy the sender from your parts supply store .you will have to drop the tank to do this it clips onto the side of the pump assembly. run it almost dry first as the tank is big n very heavy even 1/4 full. you can try to bend the old armbut its very hard on the "sender" as for level indicator full to empty, think of the shape of the tank narrow at top to widest point in the middle (full to half) wide middle to narrow bottom( half to empty) its just an overall volume thing

It is likely flooded, The spark may have to be checked manually. Remove a plug and set it on the head and see it spark. It's possible that the exhaust is stopped up. If you have a full set of tools the easiest way to check this is to remove the oxagen senser but with out the right tools the EGR valve. You might want ot take the EGR valve off anyway, to make sure that it's not stuck open. With it set aside and the wire still connected block the vacume side and try to start. The exhaust should come out the exhaust hole but it could be stopped up. Just stick a coathanger wire down it and root it out, Theirs nothing in there that a coathanger can hurt and then it shoud blow though. try again. No nothing? remove the plugs and clean them I use a map gas tourch as it's handy easy and fast. Burn off all the **** thats on them and put em back in. If as you claening then they have alot of gas the fuel pressure regulater may be leaking and it'll put alot of gas and flood the engine out if this has been happening for awhile the oil may be filled with gas that will add to this flooding even more. With all the plugs clean try to restart the car but thinking that it may be flooding don't let it idel and rev it up good to blow the extra fuel out the exhaust, it may recover and run just fine. The compression and fuel pressure sounds good that you found , The distrubuter timing could be off but with the compression neaqr 150 it should start and run. The cam timing could have skipped ( timing chain) this almost always makes the compression go less and 150 is a normal engine even a 5.7

I have a 1989 chevy 305 and cannot get the timeing right. what wire do I unhook to set timeing?

need new A/C controler in dash

Here is the firing order diagram for all Chevrolet V-8 engines for that year (note distributor latch positions between terminals 3 and 6 and 1 and 2) and let me know if you need any help to understand this diagram, or if you require any further assistance.

There is only one sensor in the 1989 Chevy C1500 John you need to check the ground on the ECM

NEITHER!!! You have to disassemble the steering column. to get it lock cylinder out... DO NOT DRILL OR SLIDE HAMMER ANYTHING on the steering column!! ( that's red neck car thief ****!!!) Disconnect the battery before you start this .. AND GET ONE OF THESE!!>> Advance Auto Parts Down for Maintenance Autozone has the special tools you might need too.. Repair Manual Vehicle Maintenance

See... how to test GM ignition module.

https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/distributor-mounted-icm-tests-1

My 92 chevy is still blowing the ecm fuse. I have unplugged the ecm and the fuel pump and it is still doing it. What should I do next

Three options here. Personally I would recommend the first one as the technician will be responsible for any damage done by him. One, call a vehicle lock specialist and pay him to retrieve them. Two, try to force entry yourself. **CAUTION** This is classed as Breaking and Entering*. You can do it with an untwisted old style wire coat hanger on the side nearest to you but it involves a lot of fishing about blindly. Using a thick rag to protect the paint, you can GENTLY lever the top of the door away from the body a small amount. Enough to get the wire in. You can then fish around to try and hook the door pull inside the vehicle to open it that way. And thirdly, the nasty one, break a window.

First you need to check whether you can legally remove the airbag where you are - in many parts of the world this isn't allowed. It will need the software of the operating system rewriting in order to delete an airbag - otherwise to stop the airbag light coming on you need to fool the system into believing the airbag is there and ok and that will mean connecting something in place of the airbag that is electrically identical to the airbag. What that something is I don't know and you could easily fire the airbag attempting to find out...

The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 On the drivers side it's 1-3-5-7 from the radiator to the firewall. On the passenger side it's 2-4-6-8 from the radiator to the firewall. The rotor rotates clock wise and #1 plug wire is towards the #7 Cylinder and #2 plug wire will be to it's right towards the #8 cylinder. Good luck and hope this helps. keep me posted ant this is for the 5.7 liter and 7.4 liter. 

WITH ENGINE OFF,LOCATE TIMING BYPASS CONNECTOR,TAN WIRE WITH BLACK STRIPE.IT WILL BE LOCATED ON PASSENGER FIREWALL OR PASSENGER SIDE UNDER DASH IN FRONT OF OR BESIDE BLOWER MOTOR.DISCONNECT WIRE.START ENGINE AND SET TIMING TO O DEGREES BY LOOSENING AND TURNING DISTRIBUTOR AND USING TIMING GUN.RETIGHTEN DISTRIBUTOR AND DOUBLE CHECK TIMING.IF STILL GOOD ,SHUT OFF MOTOR AND RECONNECT TIMING BYPASS CONNECTOR.DRIVE TRUCK AT PARTIAL THROTTLE AND LET OFF BACK TO IDLE TO TEACH COMPUTER.IF YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW TO USE A TIMING GUN YOU ATTACH TIMING WIRE TO #1 CYLINDER WHICH IS DRIVER SIDE FRONT.HOOK POS AND NEG WIRES OF GUN TO BATTERY MAKING SURE TIMING WIRE ON GUN IS FACING TO THE SPARK PLUG. HOPE THIS HELPS

check for a bent linkage its probably not engaging properly