Chevrolet C1500 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 6
I have a 1983 chevy truck, 305 auto trans, and dual tanks. When i fuel up or drive about 30 miles, it stalls. I replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, and gas cap. could it be in the tank? Seems like it
look for shaking of the fuel line at the carburetor . If it shakes while moving it could causing a vapor lock. also, when it stall , you might have to check the fuel delivery at the carb. open the connector and see if fuel is being delivered, when it stalls. . This is very dangerous. so be careful , because today's gas is explosive, not only flammable.
Did you have the fuel pump pressure tested./ A local parts store can probably give you the psi it should have when cranking the engine. I used to use a clear gas filter before the carb. and when mine stalled, I quickly jumped to see if there was fuel in it. And last but not least least, does it stall on one tank or on both tanks.?
e.
Have a 94' chevy pickup.
Flush the system and look for contaminants. If there is a bleed on the proportioning valve, also flush there. If there are contaminants, your master may need to be replaced. If not, maybe the proportioning valve has failed again.
I need to fix the parking brake for a 1964 c10 truck
The parking brake for an older truck is a cable system.. they do become stretched and MAY need replacing....make sure the emergency brake is OFF....make sure the rear brakes are adjusted as well (tight) as they can be..(takes the "slack" out as much as possible so when you apply the E Brake you are not just taking up "slack"))....Its GREAT to have a buddy to help with this...
.. Start at the brake "pedal" in the cab.. make sure the cable is routed correctly and secure at all the connections, .. and the pedal travel is sufficient to move the cables located.under the truck,,if I remember correctly there is one cable coming from the cab to a splitter that branches off to each wheel.. check all the connections and the actuators in the backing plate to see if they are working...its just a matter of taking out.... "the slack".. Good luck, ...please mark as helpful..
Pilot bearing adjustment for the forks on a 1995 chevy c1500 with a 5-speed nv3500
You're speaking of the throw out bearing - the pilot bearing is in the end of the crankshaft that the front tip of the input shaft rides in.
Do you have a mechanical or hydraulic clutch? If mechanical, there should be some adjustment provisions in the cable or linkage. If the linkage had been adjusted for a worn clutch, it may not have enough movement to release a new (thicker) clutch.
If hydraulic, make sure you have bled the hydraulic lines and slave cylinder to eliminate any air bubbles. Air is compressible and prevents the full movement of the slave cylinder to release the clutch.
I don't ever recall working on a throw out bearing actuator arm that has an adjustable pivot. Not saying there aren't any, but I've not seen one.
1985 Chevy 1/2 ton truck
you can remove what ever is preventing you from getting the pipe and slave cylinder to line up an start in the thread
the fitting should go all the way i finger tight and only use a spanner for the last bit
Running extremly rich
I recommend you check the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm for proper installation and tears. Did you get a new one with your rebuild kit?
Not finding what you are looking for?