20 Most Recent Jenn-Air JMC8127DD Microwave Oven - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Hi

First try to reset this, to solve the issue turn both the knobs to CLEAN and then push then push the UNLOCK button & try to move the lock lever while hold the Unlock Button. After this if the issue returns, then unplug the unit for 10minutes and then plug it back to set the self clean cycle again & allow it run for only 15 minutes. After 15minutes cancel the self clean cycle and allow the oven to cool, after that gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Hello Kenn. You have to set the start time and the ending time in order for the door to lock and the clean light to come on. Generally you will want to clean it for 3-5 hours depending upon how dirty it is. Joe

Thanks for choosing Fixya!

It's not a design flaw. The microwave was incorrectly mounted.

The installation instructions (installation kit) included a template for proper alignment of the microwave on the cabinetry.

If it had been aligned with the template, the two top grill screws would be easily accessible.

The grille must be removed to access the lights and the charcoal filters, which should be changed every 6-12 months if they are used.

If they are in place and not changed regularly, critical ventilation and cooling can be affected.

Your owner's manual can be downloaded free here, and it shows you how to change the bulbs and filter.

It will have to be remounted properly.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Yes, but it will be very uncomfortable and possibly very stinky...

also check this out...

Self Cleaning Oven Problem


heatman101

What is the K.W. rating on the Serial plate? (KiloWatts) It it states,
A) 7 to 9.9 you need a 40 Amp breaker
B) 10 to 11.9 you need a 50 Amp breaker
C) 12 to 14.9 you need a 60 Amp breaker

You have number 6 wire so you're covered.

To connect:
It should have the newer style pigtail installed to the stove, and the newer receptacle to plug into.

The Top middle blade is for the Common wire. The White wire
The angled side blades use the Black, and Red wires.
Black goes to one angled blade, Red goes to the other.

The round pin on the bottom is for the bare copper wire.

Wire cable from receptacle the stove plugs into, up to the Service Panel. (Misnomered as Breaker Box)

A) The Common white wire goes to the Common Bus bar in the Service panel.

Looking at the Service Panel, you'll note there are three thick main cables coming in from the Service Meter can outside.

One cable comes down to the middle. Follow the copper thick flat strip from there, over to one of the bus bars on the side. This is the Common bus bar.

B) The other two thick cables coming in to the Service Panel are the 110 volt leads.
One cable goes to the Right side, the other cable goes to the Left side.

You'll be using a double-breaker. The breaker picks up power from both 110 volt leads.
This makes it 220 volts.

The Red wire goes to one side of the double-breaker
The Black wire goes to the other side of the double-breaker.

(The double-breaker has two screws in front. A double-breaker is two single breakers put together by the factory. One screw in front is for the Red wire. The other screw in front is for the Black wire)


C) There is a thick bare twisted wire coming into the Service Panel. This is the Ground cable.
Follow the copper strip from it to the bus bar it's attached to. This is the Ground bus bar.

The bare copper wire coming to the Service Panel from the receptacle, that the stove top is plugged into, goes to the Ground bus bar.

Example of a 50 Amp double-breaker, (Connecticut Electric brand),

http://www.amazon.com/Connecticut-Electric-UBITB250-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B000WUN6Y0

I also would like you to download;
A) Installation Manual
B) Product Dimensions and Specifications Manual
C) Use and Care Manual

http://www.abt.com/product/13485/Jenn-Air-JEC8430ADB.html

Advise you flip the Main breaker off before working on the unit's electrical wiring.
IF, you are in doubt at ANY time, whether the electricity is on, or not, GO AND CHECK.

110 volts can give you a very bad shock. It tends to knock you away.
220 volts can KILL you. It has a tendency to make you hold on. Your hands won't let go.

IF, you have ANY questions about installing, and are uncomfortable with this, PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT IT.
I want you SAFE above all else.

I will answer any questions you have regarding this. No matter if you deem them stupid or not.
To me there is no such thing as a stupid question.

Safety, safety, SAFETY.

One added thing. There are many different Service Panel manufacturers. You need THE circuit breaker style, that fits THAT Service Panel.

Main breaker in the off position, remove a breaker, and take it with you when you purchase the new double-breaker. Match how it looks. Have a clerk help you.

Bi Coastal Appliance Parts 1-800-673-1262

Hi,
The clicking that normally just goes to start your burners is not stopping. They just keep on with the tick, tick, ticking.....What can go wrong that will make them keep on doing this?



There are a few possibilities for this problem. The first one is that the little switch that is behind the burner knob either went bad or got water in it. To isolate the switch that is the problem you can pull one of the wires off of behind the burner knobs one at a time till it stops. That one is the one that is bad.



If you have just washed down the stove top then you may have water in it that is making it continue to click. Let everything dry out over night and see if that fixes it. A hair dryer can be used to speed up the process.

If you pull a wire from each switch and it still goes on, then the spark module is bad. You will need to replace it.

Be aware that it is normal for all the burners to spark whenever another one is being lit.

Excessive dirt and grease can cause the burners to light hard but will not cause the spark module to keep on sparking all the time. If a burner lights hard, check the tip of the spark electrode to make sure it is clean.

If your spark module has burnt out to rapidly, or needs to be constantly replaced, you may not have a properly wired and grounded receptacle. Reversed polarity or not being grounded can cause the spark module to fail prematurely. Make sure that you do not use a two pronged outlet or extension cord for your range.

If all else fails you can always unplug the range to get the sparking to stop. You can light the burners with a charcoal grill lighter or a match if you do it carefully. Turn the burner to full on and then slowly go towards the burner keeping the flame as low to the top as possible till the burner lights.

Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. Error F2 in your range/oven means oven temperature sensor circuit failure. To resolve this issue you'll have to check the oven temp. sensor circuit if the reading is more then 1100ohms then it should be replaced however, if the rating is fine then it is the Electronic Range Control (ERC) that has gone bad & should be replaced. Please accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Most microwaves are similar in design, and here is how for a GE, which will most likely apply to the Jenn Air:
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/microwave-repair/84864-microwave-lightbulb-replacement.html
This site explains the process:
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/microwave-repair/165-microwave-interior-light-bulb-replacement.html
To discharge the cap, you can touch an insulated screwdriver across it's terminals, but just avoid the contacts and you will be fine.
Sorry to have to relay tough news, but how this helps you repair it.

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Error F2 in your range/oven means oven temperature sensor circuit failure. To resolve this issue you’ll have to check the oven temp. sensor circuit if the reading is more then 1100ohms then it should be replaced however, if the rating is fine then it is the Electronic Range Control (ERC) that has gone bad & should be replaced. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

On a GE microwave, "F3" means a bad membrane keypad.

You can order a membrane keypad here and install it yourself according to this handy illustrated guide, or we can install it for you.

If the keypad is not available separately, you can order a control panel frame assembly here, which comes with a new keypad already installed.

But since this was posted under Jenn-Air, that confuses the issue. If yours is a Jenn-Sir, please post a new help request here on FixYa and include the full model number from the tag, or contact us for a free estimate and tips.

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote that will help you with that...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4033033-gas_range_repair_burners_keep_clicking

heatman101

I would advise to remove the top panel and, using a needle, clean all holes in the burner.

The part number for the ignition switch is AP3970762

you can also find the diagram int he below mentioned website:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=859957&&model_id=24091#d859957

The display is growing weak. It cannot be replaced separately as it is part of the control board. Sometimes removing the control board and cleaning the display and the inside of the cover will help some if it has a smokey appearance. However this is best left to a professional.