20 Most Recent Jenn-Air JMC8127DD Microwave Oven - Page 9 Questions & Answers

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it sounds like the light is on, the table spins, the lcd panel works you just have no heat
it could be many things !
BAD MICRO-SWITCH on the doors

BAD DIODE

BAD CAPACITOR I must warn you if you open it you must discharge the capacitor, because the capacitor stores a large amount of voltage , you coming in contact with it can really hurt you, so you might want to find to discharge it or leave it to a pro

BAD TUBE.......if the tube is bad you might as well purchase another one since the parts an labor will run you about the same.

GOOD LUCK LEAVE SOME FEEDBACK!
THANKS!

After self cleaning the range the door won't open....
The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.



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When you hit "Start" to microwave, do the inside light, cooling fan, and turntable all come on?

If not, then you probably have a bad door switch or door switch mount and should see these files:

http://www.microwavedisplay.com/safety.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/disassembly.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt

If the inside light, cooling fan, and turntable are all coming on, then the problem is in the high voltage section, and then the next questions arise:

Any unusual noises? Is it louder or quieter than usual?

We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.

A loud buzz, hum, or groan is usually a shorted high voltage rectifier diode, but a sound like gurgling into an empty coffee mug is one symptom of a failed magnetron, and yet the mag can be bad without that sound.

If there's no unusual noise, it may just be a bad connection at the magnetron.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use (in order given) for high voltage section test help, but read the safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it is NOT shorted or burned looking, it's probably fine)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html
(continuity can be good even though mag is bad!)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.


Accessing some parts may require you to pull the oven from the wall and remove the cover.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download owner's manuals and installation instructions for several brands (including Amana, Jenn-Air, Kitchenaid, Litton, Maytag, Roper, Tappan, Thermador and Whirlpool) here.


We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Turned off power momentarily. Oven reset and operates normally.

You can download owner's manuals and installation instructions for several brands (including Amana, Jenn-Air, Kitchenaid, Litton, Maytag, Roper, Tappan, Thermador and Whirlpool) here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The kinds of components making that sound at their death are typically high power diodes and capacitors. If it is only a single component it wouldn't be expensive but the failure may have been initiated by another failure.
If you remove the housing and find no fuse to replace, you may want to consider giving yourself an early Xmas present; labor $ will likely be fairly high.

Hello. In order to assist with accuracy, i will need the entire model number. This will allow me to relay the correct part numbers needed to correct the issue at hand.

Thanks:)

Hi

Please state the exact model number of the microwave. Also by broken plastic hook are you referring to the door latching mechanism? Please carify by adding a comment.

Many Thanks.

maybe you mean MAGNETRON ... replacing the magnetron is not difficult if you are mechanically inclined .. the problem is getting a proper replacement that doesnt cost more than the oven .. there are also other things that can make the magnetron look bad ... diode, capacitor, transformer,triac and thermal switch ... but if you are sure the magnetron is bad then make absolutly sure the power is not connected before doing anything .. the voltage and current inside the microwave can be fatal if its plugged in ... the cover comes off with just a few screws (top sides and back) .. inside you will find the electronics and a fan that blows on the magnetron's fins .. there is a plug at the bottom of the magnetron that just pulls out ... there are 4 bolts at the top that hold the magnetron in place .. you may have to lossen the transformer or other things like panels to make room to remove the magnetron.. observe how the magnetron was oriented and install the new one the same way .. if you are not skilled in this sort of thing then it is far better to get someone to help you that is .. many ham radio operators (general class and above) have at least knowlege of how this works and how to work safely ..

probably gonna have to replace your control panel

Whirlpool / Jenn-Air customer service is here and they should be able to advise you on a "drop-in replacement".

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

i take it,you have power at the outlet?then unplug unit remove cover,discharge hi-voltage capacitor with something insulated,replace ceramic 15 or 20 amp fuse,most hdwg stores have them if it again blows then suspect a h.v. diode,h.v cap,magnetron, triac,or wiring shorted or a defective electronic board

If it just blew the inside fuses yes if your power line was hit by lightning it may be toast but need the model number to tell you where the fuses are.

You can contact Jenn-Air customer service and they should be able to tell you if there is a "drop-in" replacement for your model.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Could you please provide us complete model number of your Jenn-Air Oven?

I answered this via e-mail.

Let me know if you need more help or how it goes.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. "Ed" Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com