I need troque setting for cylinder head bolts for Madza MX3

most those bolts are TTY and are not reused.
and are set by angle. not torque.
I guess you never worked modern engines, or read the service manual first for all the steps in order ?
2.0L gas?
2.0. is not any suzuki engine name at all
and there are four(4) 2.0L engine used, 2 gas and 2 diesel
we can not guess engines, is it a USA car or not? I only answer for USA.
2.0 DDIS or AWD version < my guess is SuZ J20b?
2.0L vvt and vvt-i

SM< words , USA 2.0L gas VVT ,, (2.0L VIN 5, 6th digit?)

Before installing the cylinder head to the cylinder block, turn the crankshaft and position key within the specified range (30-90°) in the counterclockwise direction from the top.
Turn the crankshaft and position key within the specified range/,,
Crank key not UP, but before UP, 30 to 90 before
then
Install the cylinder head to the cylinder block.(do not lose 23 dowel pins)

1. Step 1: Apply engine oil to the cylinder head No. 1 bolt threads.
2. Step 2: Tighten the cylinder head No. 1 bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm), evenly and gradually, in sequence.NOTE
   Use a 12-point socket wrench to tighten the cylinder head No. 1 bolts.
3. Step 3: Tighten No. 1 cylinder head bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
4. Step 4: Tighten No. 1 cylinder head bolts an additional 60°.
5. Step 5: Tighten No. 1 cylinder head bolts an additional 80°.
6. Step 6: Tighten No. 2 cylinder head bolt to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
   Cylinder head tightening sequence

I never build engines off internet rumor , even mine
I buy the service manual based of VIN form Suzuki,

Part 1 of 3: Getting to the head bolts

Materials Needed

• Eye protection
• Gloves
• Oil and coolant drain
• Parts cleaner or brake cleaner
• Shop rags
• Socket set and ratchet1: Drain the oil and coolant. Put on your eye protection and gloves and drain the oilfrom the vehicle.
  Make sure the vehicle can not be started by removing the negative cable from the battery. Next the coolant will need to be drained so it does not leak when the head bolts are loosened.
  Step 2: Clean valve cover. Use some of the parts cleaner or brake cleaner to clean up the valve cover and as much of the cylinder head as is reasonable.Remove valve cover. If necessary, remove other components to make the valve covers accessible, and start removing the bolts from the valve cover.
  Once all bolts are removed carefully removed the valve cover from the cylinder head. If any valve cover gasket material remains, remove it at this time and clean any excess oil from the edges. Set the valve cover aside carefully as it will be reused with a new gasket once repairs are completed.

  Part 2 of 3: Pushrod engine head bolt removal

  Materials Needed
  
  • Head bolt socket (if needed)
  • Numbered cardboard
  • Rubber hammer
  • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Rocker arm and rocker removal. A pushrod engine has long pushrods that protrude through the cylinder head and attach to the rocker rail.
    The rocket arm will need to be loosened first. Many manufactures have a specific sequence for removal of the rocker arm bolts. After the rocker arm is removed, the rockers will be unbolted.
    Set all rocker arms aside in the order they were removed as they should go back to the cylinder they were removed from.Step 2: Remove the pushrods. Remove the pushrods one at a time from the cylinder head.
    Put them into a numbered piece of cardboard as the pushrods will go back into the same slot they came from.Step 3: Loosen head bolts. Use the ratchet begin to break the cylinder head bolts loose.
    Each bolt will be loosened but not removed. Loosen all of the bolts before removing any of the the bolts all the way.
    Step 4: Remove the bolts. Place each bolt through a numbered hole in the cardboard in case the head bolts are different lengths so they can be installed back into the proper hole.
    The bolts may require a special socket depending on the manufacture.
    Step 5: Lift off the cylinder head. Once all bolts are removed, lift up on the cylinder headgently; the head should come free easilyIf the cylinder head sticks, lightly use a dead blow or rubber mallet to tap the cylinder head to be able to remove it. Set to the side in a safe area.
    
    • Warning: Cylinder head bolts have a specific sequence that is used when removing them. Consult the manufacturer's specifications for the proper removal sequence for the engine being worked on.

    Part 3 of 3: Overhead cam head bolt removal

    Material Needed
    
    • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Remove the timing cover. The timing cover will need to be removed to gain access to the timing belt or chain.
      This is necessary because the cam shaft sits in the cylinder head and is attached to the crankshaft with either a timing belt or timing chain.
      Step 2: Time the engine to remove the belt. The engine will need to be timed to avoid damage when the timing belt is removed.
      Each engine is different and will have its own procedures to time. There should be marks on the camshaft and crankshaft that will be aligned to set the timing at top dead center (TDC)Step 3: Remove the timing belt. The timing belt tensioner will be removed or released to take the tension off the belt.
      Once the belt is loosened, it should be able to be slipped of the camshaft in the cylinder head.Step 4: Remove the head bolts. Every engine will have its own procedures for the order that the head bolts are removed or tightened.
      Loosen head bolts ¼ turn each in the order specified, which may require a special socket. Once all the bolts have been loosened they may be removed one at a time. The bolts must be organized or marked in case they are different lengths.
      Step 5: Remove the cylinder head. Once all the bolts are removed, the cylinder head may be removed from the engine. If it is stuck, tap lightly on the side of the head with a rubber hammer to loosen the cylinder head.
      
      • Warning: Most head bolts are torque-to-yield. These head bolts are single use only and once removed must be replaced. Torque-to-yield head bolts stretch when they are torqued to allow them to tighten properly and repeated application can cause the head bolt to break.
      Removing the head bolts can seem like a daunting process

1. Disconnect the heater return hose at thermostat cover. Disconnect ECT sensor and water temperature sender unit. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the outlet connection. Remove the bolts. Pull elbow away from the cylinder head. Remove the thermostat and gasket.

The thermostat cover casting contains a locking recess into which the thermostat is turned and locked.
>
Do not use more than 15 - 20 ft ibs to tighten the thermostat housing bolts.


I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/uttamjeet_2f3adc18600f8ede

1. Disconnect the heater return hose at thermostat cover. Disconnect ECT sensor and water temperature sender unit. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the outlet connection. Remove the bolts. Pull elbow away from the cylinder head. Remove the thermostat and gasket.

The thermostat cover casting contains a locking recess into which the thermostat is turned and locked.

Do not use more than 15 - 20 ft ibs to tighten the thermostat housing bolts.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/uttamjeet_2f3adc18600f8ede

Look that up in the manual for that car.

2 bolts/nuts retain it to firewall and the actuating rod attaches to the pedal below the pivot abutment with a single nut and bolt.

Torque settings for cylinder head bolts for Skoda Fabia 1.4 16v

Cylinder head bolts tightening order:



IMPORTANT NOTE: RENEW BOLTS!

Stage 1: Tightening torque = 30 Nm
Stage 1: Tightening torque = 90 Degrees
Stage 1: Tightening torque = 90 Degrees

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Left side front cylinder head



Cylinder head bolt torque sequence-3.4L engine

Cylinder head by aligning it with the dowel pins

New cylinder head bolts coated with a sealant (such as GM 1052080). Torque the bolts in the proper sequence (1-8) to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Using a torque angle meter turn the bolts 90 degrees in the proper sequence.

Left side exhaust manifold. Torque the bolts to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).

Spark plugs. Torque the plugs 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).

Right side rear cylinder head:



Cylinder head bolt torque sequence-3.4L engine

New cylinder head gasket

Cylinder head on top of the gasket and make certain it is lined up properly with the dowel pins

New cylinder head bolts coated with a sealant (such as GM 1052080). Torque the bolts in the proper sequence (1-8) to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Using a torque angle meter turn the bolts 90 degrees in the proper sequence.

Right side exhaust manifold. Torque the bolts to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).

Spark plugs. Torque the plugs 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).

Spark plug wires

Exhaust crossover pipe. Torque the fastener to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

Valve rocker arms and pushrods. Torque the fastener to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Using a torque angle meter torque the fastener an additional 30 degrees.

Lower intake manifold. Torque the bolts to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).

Upper intake manifold. Torque the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

here is the troque spec for the cylinder heads.

Cylinder Head Bolt

• First Pass

60 N·m
44 lb ft

• Final Pass

95 degrees
Cylinder Head Bolt

• First Pass

60 N·m
44 lb ft

• Final Pass

95 degrees


Cylinder Head Bolt

• First Pass

60 N·m
44 lb ft

• Final Pass

95 degrees
first pass 44 ftlbs
second pass 95 degrees

I need the torque settings and pattern for a Kia Sportage 2.2