No power to the ignition key of a Saab 93 2004 2.0 T. The key cannot be removed. All the fuses are OK. The new battery has been tested good. Radio works. Some of the lights work.The car stopped cold on a busy street. Is there a schematic diagram for the electrical system easily available? There is a possibility that I can at least get it running with the help of a mechanic, so I can sell it.

Check if your ignition switch is working. Turning the key to on should send power to those fuses for the things not working. Use a test light to check if power is getting to those fuses, when key is turned to on. If no power, something is wrong with your ignition switch. Are you sure all fuses are good?

Generally to get the key out spray internals thru key hole with DWC or similar electronic friendlt spray, some silicones are ok. Then gently move key up and down and turn off & on, wriggle a bit then try to remove key. If not ok then more spray and repeat. Generally this will remove the key, usually it is the security lock dops that are struck and holding the key in.
No power. If once the key is out and reinserted the power is is out then I would get the battery chkd as it could hv "fallen over". Not enough actual energy to turn the motor, u could test with another battery hooked. Otherwise the starter motor connection c/be faulty, or battery connections need cleaning. chk all wiring to starter motor by undoing & reconnecting all. cheers

equipped with an SID (Saab Information Display) unit that displays various information about the amount of fuel left, the radio station you're listening to and the key's battery status. It is time to change your key batteries if the key stops working or responds slower than usual. The SID on your car will also say "Replace Key Battery." Saab keys use either a CR 2032 or a CR 1632 battery depending on key type. There are two types of keys. The first generation key has one key and a transponder and the second generation key is a one piece key with a built in transponder.
First Generation Key

1 Loosen the single screw that is located by the key ring. Use the small Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw that is on top of the transponder.

2 Lift the plastic top. Remove the old battery and insert the new CR 2032 battery.

3 Put the transponder back together and tighten the screw using the Phillips screwdriver.

4 Press the alarm five times to re-synchronize the transponder with your car.

Second Generation Key

1 Push the plastic catch with the pushpin to open the cover latch. The transponder has a plastic catch that is hard to depress. The pushpin will separate it.

2 Lift the plastic cover. Remove the old battery and replace it with the new CR 1632 battery. Position the battery properly.

3 Put the cover back and press the plastic together.

4 Test the transponder with your car to make sure it is working.

When the PASS-Key® III system senses that someone is using the wrong key, it shuts down the vehicle's starter and fuel systems.

I suggest check in this link the 2007 SAAB 9-7X - Owners Manual, section THEFT and PASSLOCK SYSTEMS (page 90 and next).

Keep us updated.

CHECK THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FOR POWER TO GAUGES TO SEE IF THEY WORK WHILE IGNITION IS IN THE ON POSITION.IF NO CHECK THE 40 AMP IGNITION FUSE.IF FUSE GOOD IGNITION SWITCH IS BAD OR HAS A LOOSE OR BROKEN WIRE.IF FUSE GOOD ALL GAUGES IS WORKING.I BE LOOKING AT STARTER AND STARTER SOLENOID.REMOVE THEM HAVE AUTO ZONE TEST STARTER.OR YOU CAN GET A REMOTE STARTER SWITCH AND SET OF BATTERY CABLES.HOOK BATTERY CABLES TO A BATTERY.WITH STARTER OUT OF CAR TAKE BATTERY CABLES HOOK NEGATIVE BATTERY TO STARTER BODY FOR GOOD GROUND.TAKE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE HOOK TO STARTER POSITIVE TERMINAL WHERE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE GOES.THEN HOOK THE REMOTE SWITCH RED WIRE TO STARTER POSITIVE TERMINAL AND THE OTHER REMOTE SWITCH WIRE TO THE S OR SWITCH TERMINAL ON STARTER SOLENOID.PRESS THE REMOTE SWITCH IS STARTER RUNS GOOD WITH NO FUNNY NOISES ITS GOOD IF STARTER DONT RUN THE STARTER SOLENOID OR STARTER IS BAD. THE PROBLEMS IN YOUR CAR COULD BE A BAD KEY TRY ANOTHER KEY YOUR CAR HAS THE THEFT DETERRENT MODULE SYSTEM BEST TO HAVE CAR SCAN TO CHECK THE THEFT SECURITY MODULE AND THE TRANSMISSION NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH IF ITS BAD STARTER WONT WORK.ALSO CHECK THE THEFT DETERRENT MODULE RELAY. BEFORE REMOVING BATTERY CABLES TURN OFF RADIO SO YOU WONT LOSE YOUR RADIO PLAYING CODE.

ignition relay if good ===ignition switch.

I have had this before. Once I turn the key to the st position for starting I turn it back a click to the on position and everything works.

You Should FIRST Rule out the Ignition Switch this can be tested with a test light-by, Probing the "ACC" Terminal @ Fuse Box with KEY OFF, If there is Power at this or Any KEY ON Power Source when the KEY IS OFF, you Have a Faulty Ignition Switch. IF NOT, then the Test Light can be Used to Locate the CIRCUIT Where the Battery "DRAW" is in, Do this By First Disconnect the Positive Battery terminal,Connect the GROUND end of Test Light to the + pos Battery terminal and The "PROBE" End to the + Pos Battery "CABLE" With KEY OFF and All Other Electrical OFF the Light Should NOT Light up, If it Does Light Up, Go to Fuse Box and One at a Time Remove and Reinstall FUSES Until TEST LIGHT Goes OFF when you get to the FUSE that TURNS OFF the Test Light THIS is Where the BATTERY DRAW IS, you must then Locate the Faulty Component and Repair/ Replace the Part.
I truely Hope this is of Good HELP to you, And if You Have ANY Questions Feel FREE to Reply I Will Be Happy to Help ! Have a Good DAY !

I have a 2001 saab 93 and battery will need a jump in the morning but battery is new. I found a small fuse box next to the battery with 4 60amp mega fuses in it and when I remove the 1st 2 fuses the battery will be ok in the morning? can someone help

this look like a low battery and every time you try to crank your car it takes more power and kill the main power to the radio
solution # 2 the radio as 2 power wires one is always hot ( with current) and the other is connected to the ignition switch if you have replaced the radio those 2 wires maybe are connected backwards the one that goes to the switch is probably connected directly to the battery and the one is suppose to be always hot is probably connected to the switch if you have the original radio have your battery tested and if is ok then try get a haynes book at any auto parts for you car and try to follow the wire that is always hot normally is a yellow or orange wire
solution #3 this apply only if you car still have the original radio
turn your ignition switch to the on position but don't crank your car and turn your radio on select a radio station then turn your ignition key off and wait 3 minutes then turn your ignition switch on again with out cranking your car and the radio should be in the same radio station you select if this test pass then chances are is your battery getting low and if this test fail then the hot wire has a blow fuse look for the fuse inside the hook let me know what happend and good luck