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1997 Saab 900 Questions & Answers
97 saab 900 s 2.3l non turbo automatic has became
Since it does eventually start and run, hard starting is usually a fuel delivery problem (pressure regulator, fuel filter, fuel pump, kinked fuel line). First check the fuel pressure after turning the key on but not starting the car.
Misalignment of my 900 SE left windows
the first thing i would is to check that the window motor/regluator behind the door interior panel has not come loose/adrift from the door frame and gone out off adjustment also check that the guide seals have not got trapped/folded over or split damaged
Saab 900 fuel gauge erratic. I measure 5 volts on
fuel gauge voltage is controlled by the dash board, there is a board on the back of the dash that connects the rev counter the voltage is controlled by this board. you would need to change this board. but to do so you would need to open up the dash board display to get to the board or just replace the dash.
Gas gauge
You will need to replace the sending unit, that is really the only thing that will cause this issue
Saab 900se sound like running on 3 pistons
Have you checked you're actually getting a spark on all 4? Take out each plug in turn, leave it connected and ensure the metal body of the plug is touching a metal part of the car (the cylinder head will do :) ) Get someone to crank the car for you & see if there's a good, fat spark on the end of the plug. If you find one doesn't have a spark, start by changing over the plug lead with one of the others & see if the fault moves with the lead. If so, replace the faulty lead; actually, I'd replace the set as if one has gone, the others won't be far behind.
There are many other faults that could cause that symptom but I don't know that engine well enough to be much help :(
Let us know how you get on.
Sobs 1997 900 turbo having trouble with running
Saabs can be prone to floating ground issues in some of the light fixtures. My older one had this happen in particular, when the ground plane in the tail light cluster rusted and isolated the ground on a bunch of lights. It turned into a bypass where brakes, blinkers, emergency, all would make all the lights flash kind of dimly.
You should be able to remove the rear light clusters from inside the trunk. Look and see if there is corrosion, or signs that the ground plane - should look like a large scale printed circuit board, is damaged. Clean it off with a wire brush. if the ground plane is broken, you'll want to either get a replacement base plane, or, if you re-connect the ground, use some heavy wire to solder it back into connection so that it can handle the current for the lights.
I hope this might help!
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