1995 mitsubushi galant cranked and started. I drove it 15 feet and it suddenly shut off. Distributerm spark plugs and wiring, along with and new ECU has been replaced. Sometimes it gets a good spark. A few times it seems to want to crank....Never had a problem with cranking before.

Tried starting it again and noticed that the fuel pump was not turning on..
this is not true done wrong,
and spark is first never ever fuel first, fuel does not burn lacking spark (gas)
if spark is bad on all spark plugs then fix spark. (all plugs dead)
you really really need to end that fixaction on fuel, spark is bad
the pump only pumps cranked and running not key on
most do a 1second prime most noobs never see or know how to find that out (a fuel pressure gauge is that tool) (a 2 man job)
one at key, 1 at gauge, or voltmeter at pump wires rear. 2man not 1 or learn to crank and see fuel pressure good
and learn this fact, too, the ECU on all cars made cuts fuel if the ECU brain detects spark loss to end crash and burn as seen on TV>
this is done 1 or 2ways or both cuts injectors and cuts the pump dead , on newer cars crash switches cut fuel too, so 3ways
end fuel , deals back to SPARK


its bad wiring for spark and using a voltmeter to the correct spot when spark fails is the only test to do.
91'F150 Pickup, not econoline 4.9L gas.
it has a distributor or TFI-I or TFI-iv system
the ICM must be thermal pasted new install or fails hot.
the SM book shows it has TFI spark. in the real 4.9 schematic.
lets focus ******* TFI 4.9L
AS YOU CAN SEE , ANY OF ALL THIS CAN FAIL AND DO THIS OLD.
BEST IS NEW FULLY LOADED DISTRIBUTOR THIS OLD !
Tests:
1: the red wire must be hot keyon, at spark lost or BINGO1
2:the ecu detectS spark loss at pin 4. input. and cuts fuel faST.
3:The TFI IS the ignitor acts like old points did it charges up the coil then fires it.
4: spark is lost we always check for spark directly at the COIN.
if dead there we know coil bad or all part to the left and below bad.
5:the red/light green wire must also be 12vdc hot keyon,
6: the noise cap not missing ,dead or bad or noise can make the TFI module misfire or act up at random, noise is not good here.
7: that is for power loss etc. the problem seems like wiring bad./loose., if spark is good at coil say so. as it might be and only the ignition suppressor is bad and this cuts fuel dead if bad.
the supressor name is not good, better is spark detection read back filter. if bad ECU CAN NOT SEE SPARK HAPPEN
heck it can even lost or its pins rust after 31 year on the road.


FULL SIZED HERE

https://imgur.com/a/5wCgHKp

FIXYA MESS BELOW.

I would check for spark first with a spark plug tester. They are about $10 bucks and very easy to use. Then check all spark plugs for massive wear, and then check all spark plug wires for breaks or burn holes from motor. If not any of these, then I would check to timing belt. Once you diagnose these things, get back to me and we'll go from there. Good luck. P.S. Did the check engine light ever come on?

Who did all this work ? A qualified repair shop ?

Its more than that you are more than likely going to end up replacing the ECU.

Have a look at your crank sensor. When it starts to fail, It will cause a jeep to suddenly shut off if it stops sending a signal to the ecu, and it usually starts right back up again.

On passenger side, inside of cab there is a fuel inertia switch mounted on the firewall by where feet go. There is a button underneath, push it. This will reset switch. Truck should get fuel now and start. These switches get weak and if passenger kicks it truck will shut down. Will still turn over but not start.

There is no simple answer, there are to many variables. If you have access to a scan tool, pulling the codes should help. Without them its back to old school hunt and peck method. At this point we need to narrow down the problem. You need to test for spark.

1. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires from the spark plugs.
   
2. Remove the spark plugs and install the spark plug wires to each spark plug.
   
3. Ground (do not hold spark plug) the spark plug; check if spark occurs while engine is being cranked.
   

Crank the engine for no more than 2 seconds at a time to prevent flooding the engine with gasoline.
If you have spark, You will want to make sure you have fuel injector pulse, along with fuel pressure. If you have spark ..simply spray some starting fluid in through the air filter and hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over while spraying. If it fires up, you know it is fuel related( fuel pump, regulator, or ECM if no injector pulse) . If you have no spark then look at ignition coil connection and trace through to the distributor( if equipped ). The crank shaft sensor has a tendency to fail on these as well. This should give you a few things to test and check to start you on your way to narrowing it down. If you have no spark then look at ignition coil connection for power and trace through to the distributor( if equipped ). If it is DIS( no distributor). It may be the Crank sensor or the ECU. The crank shaft sensor has a tendency to fail on these as well.
The ECU uses the signal sent from the Crank sensor to trigger the spark and fuel injectors. ( make certain you have checked all fuses)

Ok, I had this issue with my BMW. DROVE ME NUTS! I couldn't figure it out, and I bought new plugs, coils, etc to no avail.

Finally I replaced the TPS (throttle position sensor) and the CPS (crank/cam-shaft position sensors) and it started right up like a champ! I guess these go out quite frequently, and the dealer loves to charge a fortune to replace them, even though you can get them on ebay for around 40 bucks each.

Hope this helps! Good luck! :)

Just having fuel is not enough on this engine, here are the spec's. Even 1 psi out of spec can cause a no start.

Fuel Pressure
Pressure 1 (PSI) Pressure 2 (PSI) Pressure 3 (PSI) Range Note Range Note Range Note 60.0 - 66.0 Y131 50.0 - 63.0 Y132 66.0 Y133 Y131: System pressure with ignition on (PSI).
Y132: System pressure while idling (PSI).
Y133: Fuel pump pressure (PSI) with return line briefly restricted.

Reset the ECU? Who told you to do that? Check the basics. Does it have fuel and spark while cranking? Did those wires get put on correctly when they were replaced? Be sure the wires are correct. You can go here and pick the right engine to see how the wires should be run:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-eagle-firing-95.htm

You didn't mention which engine you had (with or without turbo).