How to change theinner tie rod ends

Yes just count the turns as you remove it.

What you describe is most often caused by a bad tie-rod end, which is part of your steering. This causes the clunking that you feel when you turn, and the tire wear.
Jack up the front drivers side and when the wheel is off the ground, try to force it left and right. If you feel any play in it, a tie rod end is bad.
To find out if it is the inner or outer tie rod end, look underneath and locate the tie rod for that wheel- it will look like a pole about an inch thick. Get somebody to move the wheel left and right like you did, and look on either end of the tie rod for which end is moving. That will be your bad tie rod end. The "outer" is the one by the wheel- the other one is the "inner". Most often it is the outer tie rod end that goes bad.
It is important to get a bad tie rod end replaced as soon as possible because it can separate and cause you to lose control of your car when the wheel will suddenly turn either in or out, depending on which way you are steering when it fails. After a tie rod end is replaced, your car will need an alignment to set the adjustment correctly. If you are changing it yourself, mark how far the old one is threaded in so your alignment will be fairly close to where it was.
Good luck, and Thank You for using FixYa!

If the tie rods are just loose,you replace the bolts

Obviously if the end joint or brg is worn & loose you replace
them. (not the entire arm,just the joint)

You can replace the bolt or the tie rods yourself,
then have the front aligned within a few days as the
toe will be off.

I assume your talking outer ties rod ends,
not inner --- inside the steering rack boots!!

The inner joint does require the complete, what
looks like a rod or arm to be replaced

loosen lock nut. clamp vice grips on inner tie rod to hold it from turning. Then unscrew tie rod end, counterclockwise. count the number of turns so you can screw new one on in same place. get front end alignment.

may need to heat the tie rod end with a torch to break it free from the rust.

soak for a week with penetrating oil first.

This is the 1st time I heard of 2 being available! You learn something new every day. I checked and there are 2 as you say,
1. Firm feel steering inner tie rod is 293.7mm long, or 11.563 (11-1/2") inches
2. Standard feel steering inner tie rod is 274mm long or 10.7874 (10-3/4") inches long. Remove yours (count the # of turns to remove, replace new end with same # of turns to get the adjustment close and you should get a front end alignment after doing any front end work) and measure it. That's the best way to determine what you need, the 'firm feel' is about 3/4 inch longer than the 'standard feel'. Let me know how it goes.

Usually they can be replaced with a little effort. You would need to get under the car and pry the broken part off the control arm. The tierod end is threaded onto the shaft. There is a bolt which compresses the tierod end onto the tierod. Loosen the compression bolt and unthread the end from the shaft rod. Counting the number of turns to remove it will be the number of turns to replace it. Mount it and then get a front end alignment which is a good idea before something else breaks.

I used this website: http://www.allpar.com/fix/intrepid-steering.html It worked perfectly. To add to it, I used a tie rod puller tool rented from Oreilly Auto Parts for only a few bucks, to press the old bushing out of the inner-tie-rod end. Worked very well. Easier than removing the entire tie rod, and hammering it out. However, removing the entire tie rod would make re-assembly easier. If I did it again, I would strongly consider removing the driver side tie rod from the car, then attaching the inner tie rod end 1st. Meaning, attach the passenger side inner tie rod 1st, then the driver side inner tie rod with new bushing, then re-attach the drivers side outer tie rod. That would probably be the easiest way on this 1996 dodge concorde, due to the fuel line that's in the way....

Check the tie rod, tie rod ends, and ball joints for excessive play. Jack up the front on either side and have a helper push and pull on the top or bottom of the tire. Watch the area where the hub pivots on the axle. if both sides check out. with the truck on the ground, have the helper turn the steeribg wheel back and forth about a half turn with the key off. Look for loose outer tie rod ends, and inner tie rod ends.
F-250 4x4 steering componants are pretty basic, If your unsure what to look for then take it to someone that knows how to fix it. Correctly. If you replaced any of the joints. It would be in your best interest to get it alighned.

I can walk you through it, be sure it is your outer tie rod that is bad the inner tie rods go bad also. It's actually quite simple to replace. Jack up and secure car with safety stands, remove your tire. Remove cotter pin and the nut holding in onto your steering knuckle, Loosen lock nut on the inner tie rod shaft. Either rent or buy you a tie rod removal tool they are cheap, but autozone and many other stores have a tool loner service that is free. Remove the tie rod from the knuckle and hold inner shaft and rotate the outer rod end till it comes off. When you go back with the new one measure across the front ties on the front and on the rear side about the same place. Screw the new tie rod on till the fron and the back of the tires measure the same distance, that is zero toe. Most fwd cars drive great right there. Be sure you tighten everything properly and reinstall the cotter pin If this helps please vote fixya!

you must remove or slide the inner tie rod boot outward on the rod and then thread the tie rod out of the steering rack. there is a section of the tie rod on the inside of the ball joint that has flat spots to get a open end wrench onto. to check your tie rods, simply jack the wheel off of the ground, grab the either side of the tire, and wiggle it towards and away from you. if you feel any play at all the tie rods must be replaced. also a god indication is when the front tires start to wear excessivly on the inside or outside edges.

as for the cv axle, it has a retainer ring on the end of the splined shaft. all thats reqired is to seat the splines in the transaxle (transmission) and the tap (shouldnt take too much) the outer end of the axle with a mallet or hammer. it will pop into place.

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