Drivers side transaxle slides about 2 inches into the ****** causing the wheel and tire to move also. this causes the car to shift to one side drasticly. i need the cv joint assembly diagram to better understand how to fix this problem

1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Replacement ,same for other shift solenoids !
Remove the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement . Disconnect the transaxle wiring harness.
Control Valve Body Cover Replacement
Removal Procedure

1. Remove the air inlet duct. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.4L.
2. Remove the engine mount struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Left Side and Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Right Side in Engine Mechanical.
3. Remove the shift cable bracket from the transmission.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
5. Remove the left front tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
6. Remove the left engine splash shield. Refer to Engine Splash Shield Replacement in Body Front End.
7. Remove the left tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Refer to Rack and Pinion Outer Tie Rod End Replacement in Power Steering System.

Remove the left wheel speed sensor harness connector (2) and the harness (1) from the lower control arm. Remove the left lower ball joint from the left steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension. Remove the left stabilizer . Refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications in Suspension. Reposition and secure the drive axle toward the rear of the vehicle. Remove the trans mount nuts at the frame.
Caution: Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or damage to the intermediate shaft. This damage may cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
Remove the intermediate shaft (1) from the steering gear (2). Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in Steering Wheel and Column - Tilt.
Support the left side of the frame with a utility stand. Remove the left side frame bolts. Use the utility stand in order to lower the left side of the powertrain enough to gain access the case side cover bolts.
Support the transmission with a transmission jack. Use the utility stand in order to lower the left side of the frame enough to access the case side cover lower bolts. Position the drain pan under the transaxle. Disconnect the transaxle wiring harness electrical connectors.
Remove the case side cover bolts (56-58). 56 are regular bolts ,58 are studs .
Remove the case side cover pan (53).
If not replacing the side cover, steps 24, 25, 26, and 27 are not required.
Remove the case side cover gasket (54). Remove the case side cover inner gasket (59).
Inspect the case side cover (53) for the following conditions:
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Damaged or porous gasket sealing surfaces

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Damaged or porous casting surfaces

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Damaged or stripped bolt holes

Inspect the case side cover gasket (54) and case side cover inner gasket (59) for damage. The gaskets are reusable if they are NOT damaged. Clean the case side cover gasket surfaces
Install the 1-2 shift solenoid (315A). Connect the transaxle wiring harness. Install the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement .
Important: It is recommended that transmission adaptive pressure (TAP) information be reset.
Resetting the TAP values using a scan tool will erase all learned values in all cells. As a result, The ECM, PCM or TCM will need to relearn TAP values. Transmission performance may be affected as new TAP values are learned.
Reset the TAP values. Refer to Transmission Adaptive Functions .
Good luck , this job is a real pain in the ***

This can be caused by several different things, such as: A bad axle shaft, the differential or transaxle bearings. The ring and pinion drive, wheel bearings etc. Any one of these will cause shaking and noise on deceleration. Check transaxle fluid level, raise vehicle front end and check for slop in the wheel bearings and check for noise while spinning the tire. The wheel bearings will often make noise when lugging down as you put it due to the weight shift to the front wheels. This also applies to the axle shafts and CV joints and the differential.

Transaxle Removal & Installation

Fig. Disconnect the shift control cable (3) from the range select lever (4)

Remove the upper transaxle to engine bolts (1, 3, 5, 6) and stud (2).



Fig. Remove the upper transaxle to engine bolts (1, 3, 5, 6) and stud (2)

Safely support the engine.

Remove the transaxle mount to transaxle bolts.



Fig. Remove the transaxle mount to transaxle bolts

Remove the transaxle mount to frame rail bolts.

Remove the mount from the engine.



Fig. Remove the transaxle mount to frame rail bolts

Remove the left transaxle mount

Raise and safely support the vehicle.

Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies.

Remove the splash shield.

Remove the bolts (2, 3) from the transaxle brace.

Remove the transaxle brace (1).



Fig. Remove the bolts (2, 3) from the transaxle brace

Remove the starter.

Mark the relationship of the flywheel to the torque converter for reassembly.

Use the J 43653, Flywheel Holding Tool, to prevent the crankshaft from rotating.

Remove the torque converter to flywheel bolts.

Remove the nut holding the transaxle cooler line retainer to the transaxle.

Disconnect the transaxle cooler lines from the transaxle.

Disconnect the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) wiring harness from the sensor.

Remove the steering gear intermediate shaft pinch bolt.

Disconnect the tie rods from the steering knuckle.

Disconnect the stabilizer shaft links from the stabilizer shaft.

Disconnect the ball joints from the steering knuckles.

Remove the frame.

Disconnect the wheel drive shafts from the transaxle.

Support the transaxle with a suitable jack.

Remove the lower transaxle to engine bolts (5, 6, 7, 8).



Fig. Remove the lower transaxle to engine bolts (5, 6, 7, 8)

Separate the engine and the transaxle.

Remove the transaxle from the vehicle.

Flush the transaxle cooler and the lines with J 35944-A, Transaxle Oil Cooler Flusher.

Remove the following only if replacing the transaxle.

1. Remove the shift cable bracket bolt (3), nut (1), and bracket (2).
2. Remove the PNP switch.
3. Remove the transaxle mounts.
   
   
   
   Fig. Remove the shift cable bracket bolt (3), nut (1), and bracket (2).

To install:

1. Install the following if previously removed
   1. Install the shift cable bracket (2), bolt (3), and nut (1).
   2. Tighten the bolt (3) and nut (1) to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
2. Install the PNP switch.
3. Install the transaxle mounts.
4. Position the transaxle in the vehicle.
5. Install the lower transaxle to engine bolts. Tighten the bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
6. Install the wheel drive shafts to the transaxle.
7. Install the frame.
8. Lubricate the transaxle cooler pipes before inserting into seals.
9. Connect the transaxle cooler pipes to the transaxle.
10. Install the transaxle cooler pipes retainer nut. Tighten the nut to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
11. Use the J 43653, Flywheel Holding Tool, to prevent the crankshaft from rotating.
12. Install the torque converter to flywheel bolts. Tighten the torque converter bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
13. Install the starter.
14. Install the frame.
15. Install the steering gear intermediate shaft pinch bolt.
16. Connect the ball joints to the steering knuckles.
17. Connect the stabilizer shaft links to the stabilizer shaft.
18. Connect the tie rods to the steering knuckle.
19. Connect the wiring harness to the VSS.
20. Install the transaxle brace.
21. Install the transaxle brace bolts. Tighten the bolts to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
22. Install the front splash shields.
23. Install the front wheel and tire assemblies.
24. Lower the vehicle.
25. Install the left transaxle mount.
26. Install the upper transaxle to engine bolts and stud. Tighten all of the bolts and stud to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
27. Untie the radiator, air conditioning condenser, and fan module assembly.
28. Remove the engine support fixture.
29. Connect the transaxle wiring harness to the main transaxle electrical connector, and the PNP switch.
30. Install the shift control cable to the shift control cable bracket. Ensure the cable retaining clip is fully seated.
31. Connect the shift control cable to the range select lever.
32. Connect the air duct hose to the intake plenum.
33. Install the battery tray.
34. Inspect the transaxle fluid level.
    NOTE
    It is recommended that Transmission Adaptive Pressure (TAP) information be reset. Resetting the TAP values using a scan tool will erase all learned values in all cells. As a result, the ECM, PCM or TCM will need to relearn TAP values. Transaxle performance may be affected as new TAP values are learned.
    
35. Reset the TAP values

Yes, that would cause it if the 33 inch tires have an outside diameter that is larger that the originals. This lowers the final gear ratio and caused the engine to be at a higher RPM at the same given speed as it did before with the stock tires and wheels.

Yes of course.

You didn't say anything about tires and wheels, have you rotated the tires to see if the problem moves to the front of the car ?
If the car is 20+ years old, the mounts for the transaxle could be worn enough to cause a vibration. And one of the axles/driveshaft could be bent.

Jack car up. Hold the front wheel with both hands in the 3 and 9 poistion. Try and rock it towards you and away. If it is easy to move the wheel bearings need replaced.

Take it to an alignment garage and get the tracking/alignment sorted. Are the inner edges of the tires worn?

Push down on the wing hard to compress the suspension and release, if one side returns slowly, new shock or spring is needed. See if you can spot any cracked springs too.

I'd certainly rotate tires to see if noise changes at all, as well as take a good look at tread on front tires, especially for excess or unusual wear on edges, especially outside of right front, if your quite sure the noise is coming from the right side. Does the noise increase, decrease, or stay same, on a left hand turn? Another thing would be to check all motor, and transmission mounts and see if it looks like things may have shifted slightly, or if they appear worn or broken, as well as If engine/transaxle has shifted slightly it can cause similar noises as well. As far as left front bearing goes, I wouldn't rule it out 100% either, unless you are positive noise is from right front area. You have to remember, either way you turn the wheel, will slightly shift either bearing if there is play in it. Rule out easy stuff first like tires.

I would call this 1 of 3 possible problems.....

This first could be a bad or unbalanced tire. Sometimes the multiply ties we use on cars separate between layers, this causes an un-natural bulge that can not always be seen, but certainly can be felt while driving. This is called ply separation. An unbalanced tire, which could be caused by a wheel weight falling off, or a shift in weight that could be cause by something like an impact break or the ply separation, would also cause a wobble that varies at different speeds. The best way to check it out without a shop visit, is to take the wheel off and just inspect it, make sure everything is smooth and even.

Secondly, a wheel bearing could cause a wobble as well. The self test for this is to jack the car up, leave the tire on and wiggle it. It should feel tight all the way around and not move up to down, or side to side. A way to test this unit while driving, which is not always accurate 100% but will give you a clue as to where to look first is drive in an area free from other traffic, when it starts to wobble, turn to both the left and right without touching the break. If the wobble goes away it is likely the cause.

Thirdly the ball joint could also cause a slight wobble. To check this, I usually jack the car up, do the same wobble test as described above, then remove the tire and inspect the joint. A good joint will have absolutely no tears in the boots. It should also feel solid at you try to move the other components that surround them.

Good Luck, we are here if you need anything further.

I would have the transaxle mount on the driver side engine compartment checked. One way to get an idea if it may be shot is to start engine, apply park brake, put transaxle in reverse and with one foot on main brake pedal and other on gas give the gas a quick tap and see if you hear a loud thump which will be the transaxle flexing the trans mount. If the rubber insulator is shot then you'll hear it.