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1994 Saab 900 - Page 3 Questions & Answers
When doin the timing belt on a 94 saab 900 dohc v6
Sort of. If you have the slack on the wrong side, it is possible for you to end up a tooth off after adding the tension. The only way to be sure is to manually turn the crank 2 turns, and line the marks back up again.
Make sure you only go the right way. You can't back up of you over shoot.
If it is half a tooth off, there is nothing you can do about it. But if you are a whole tooth off, release the tensioner and do it again.
But remember the movement of the crank means only half what the movement of the cam means. So you can have more slop in the crank than the cam.
I have a 1994 Saab 900se and the clutch cable has
If the clutch is a bit on the heavy side when you push on the pedal, it is most likely that the releaase bearing is binding on the shaft where it slides. and is putting extra stain on the cable which it is not capable of doing for any length of time so hence it breaks. With cable disconnected check the movement of the release fork. If it is tight, you could try spaying some lublicant onto the rear of the bearing slider. Do not over do it as you don't want oil getting onto the clutch plate. If it then moves freely, but still feels heavy, then the problem could be that the diapraghm spring in the pressure plate is putting extra strain on the linkage and cable.
Battery not holding charge; not sure what type of
If in the US or Canada, take your car to one of the chain auto parts stores for a free battery test; I would do this first since there are problems that may be draining the battery slowly or the alternator can be defective and discharge the battery while standing.
The alternator can also be checked at the parts store and they will tell you (if not, ask) what series battery you need.
If you have a multimeter (they are under $20 US) or know someone who has one, it makes sense to check for current flow with all electrical items and the engine off, the battery charged. Disconnect the black (ground cable) from the battery and measure current on the separate, normally present, 10 Ampere range by connecting the positive (red) lead of the meter to the removed negative cable and touch the negative (black) meter lead to a clean chassis point.
Since there are items that draw small amounts of current even when appearing 'off,' some current may flow but typically, it should be under 0.1 Amperes. Clocks, radios and the computer may draw a little even when apparently doing nothing.
Anything above 1.0 amperes is not normal for a standing auto since this will drain a battery in 1-3 days.
Batteries vary greatly in quality so personal friends' recommendations help, and I can recommend Interstate brand but avoid the 'green top' series from them since they are very poor.
The 'black top' series are among the best and priced in the mid-range.
How to slacken rear brake shoes to replase disc
Hi Ricky
Your car has disc brakes so you need to release the brake pads not shoes (they are for drum brakes). That should help when you buy a new set.
Loosen the split pins which hold the pads in the caliper. You should then be able to push the pads out. It sounds like the pads are worn down so much that the caliper pistons are at their full reach.
Once you have slid them out, you need a piston retractor tool to push the pistons back in the caliper in order to be able to fit the new pads.
SLide the pads in, use copper grease on the back surface to stop them squeaking. Once done, pump the brake pedal to set the pads and the job is finished.
Turbo mal-functioning. Shortly after, starter
Pushed out oil that got into the starter? Not likely. The starter sits on the side of the engine block outside of the transmission and turns the flywheel or pressure plate. Unless the turbo is right above the starter and has a extremely bad leak that was leaking directly onto the starter but even then I don't think it would cause the Starter to suddenly stop working.
I have the unlock code for my car radio but when i
When you turn the radio on it should ask for code in....when it does you should be able to enter your 4 digit code number.....if 4 dashes appear push and hold down the band button for 10 secs. If your still having problems take the fuses out and see if it comes up and asks for a code in.....hope this helps. Good luck!
Saab 900 radio code
Pull the radio using the tools or bend 2 pieces of coathanger to fit the holes - push the coathanger about 2-3" in and press outwards, pull the radio out enough to read the serial number.
Have the serial number and VIN number handy and call a Saab dealer. A kind one will give you the 4-digit code over the phone. The worst dealer will charge a minimum $ to have you come in and prove ownership. My dealer, in Scottsdale AZ, did it free for me, and if the serial matches the VIN in theri database, you should be ok. This is a case where a polite, respectful request will get you service and a favor sometimes. You may also call around to other Saab dealers and find one that is helpful. Remember them when you need real service. And maybe, if they charge, go have an oil change done and ask if they would give you the code while you wait. They love that, and often will give the care a once-over and tell you what they see that needs service. Cheap diagnostics. Good Luck!
The starter (ignition) switch does not return
it is the barrel at the rear of the ignition switch, you do not need to replace the whole of the ignition switch just the part on the back if you remove the stearing cowling and look behind the ignition barrel you will see either a white or black ( might be any colour though) item with wires going into it, all that is needed is that part to be replace, just unplug the wireing part and remove the ignition box from the back of the barrel and replace, hope i explained that correctly for you
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