1996 Volvo 850 - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

At #1 TDC both cam pulleys will have a mark that lines up with marks on the top of the Timing belt cover. They will point straight up.

Have it Scanned.

Are you sure that you did not time the cams 180 out?

Well, you changed everything, Now you have to go after the fuses,relays, ignition switch and wiring. Wiring I would rule out, because it works when cold. So I would check all the fuses, pull them out, most likely good because everything works when cold. Pulling them gets rid of the corrosion problem. Then pull the relays, swap them, where you can. This will narrow down a bad relay. Some thing won't work after it gets warm/hot. besides a no start. After all that, I would go after the ignition switch. they do go bad and do a lot worse than your problem.

O2 sensor, egr temperature sensor and fuel consumption sensor.

Volvo has had a lot of trouble with ABS control units. Yours will most likely need to be replaced. You can either replace it with an exchange unit from a Volvo parts supplier or send yours to BBA reman. in MA for repair.

Since I don't know if you have replaced that shock or have replaced both, I will cover as many instances as I can here. Let me know of any other details including work that's already been done (and the parts that got used). 1) If you have replaced the damaged shock assembly, ensure that its mount inside the trunk under the carpet where the wheel well is located is properly installed. There are two bolts that secure it in place. 2) If that appears OK then it's possible that during the failure of the shock the mounting to the body could be distorted. Have that checked at a properly-equipped shop. 3) If you are sure that the body itself is intact, ensure the shock receiver cup hasn't buckled. This is simply a bracket with a rubber bushing where the shock rests near the stub axle. 4) Compare the length of both shocks with the vehicle on a lift with at least the two rear wheels at full droop. Then do the same with the vehicle parked on level ground. Ensure that the values you find for each test do not exceed +-1-3 mm. 5) If you find a difference, it's possible that the other shock is failing as well. Shocks are usually replaced in pairs, optionally with their springs. During your failure, the spring on the failed shock could have compressed to the point of fatigue failure. It cannot be adjusted; it must be replaced. Do not attempt to compensate by shaving the other spring; this will leave the spring with fatigue cracks where it was trimmed and will fail quickly, possibly resulting in severe damage to the body. 6) Once all this has been done, have the vehicle geometry checked out by a properly-equipped shop. The easiest way is to have a four-wheel alignment done and see if the rear wheels show any difference; if the difference cannot be adjusted out then there is either frame damage or body damage present. In either instance, the repair is minimal.

Don't know your engine size so pick the correct one for your motor:



2.3L 4-Cylinder Engines Firing Order: 1–3–4–2 Distributor Rotation: Clockwise



2.8L 6-Cylinder Engine Firing Order: 1–6–3–5–2–4 Distributor Rotation: Clockwise



2.9L 6-Cylinder Engines Firing Order: 1–5–3–6–2–4 Distributorless Ignition



2.3L and 2.4L 5-Cylinder Engines Firing Order: 1–2–4–5–3 Distributor Rotation: Counterclockwise

Jan,

With all the things you've listed that could be wrong, always start with the most obvious and least expensive....fuel filter would be my first shot..a clogged, or partially clogged fuel filter would allow enugh fuel to pass through it until the demand was to great...in effect..you'd be emptying the filter of all available fuel..then whenhte car sits..fuel would accumulate again.


Good guesses on the other parts though...you should grab a wrench and go at it...sound slike you know what yu're doing.

Thanks for letting us at FixYa.com help

are you getting power to the fan? could be a weak fan motor. I would start by checking Fuse then relay the check the temp sensor the fan don't use the same sensor as the temp gauge.

you have to watch utube video, or step by step it with a forum I've done mine and you have to be pretty mechanical, its no walk in the park and I'm way mechanical.

Try to get one of these for your car Goes Over all SystemsFor the American manufacturing company, see Haynes Automobile Company.The Haynes Owner\'s Workshop Manuals (commonly known as simply Haynes Manuals) are a series of practical manuals from the Haynes Publishing Group (LSE: HYNS) aimed at both DIY enthusiasts and professional garage mechanics. The series primarily focuses upon the maintenance and repair of automotive vehicles, covering a wide range of makes and models (300 models of car and 130 models of motorcycle), but it also includes manuals in the same style for domestic appliances and personal computers, digital photography and model railways, men[1] and babies,[2] Sex">sex,[3] and women.[4] The last four were made slightly tongue in cheek, but have proved very popular.Additionally they have released manuals based on popular fictional series including Star Trek[5] and Thomas and Friends.[6]

Call a Volvo dealer and give them your vin number they might be able to check from their data base

alot of problems stem from a worn out ignition tumbler, if you turn your key on is there play to wiggle it forward and back a little? its the culprit for so many issues believe it or not, Ive had my 850 turbo wagon for 15 years and know her like a book. mine does this and after i restart it its fine. my odometer stopped working and Its an easy but timely fix so i just left it as the service light comes on for service at the right mileage. anyway, if tumbler is good then your cable is going bad.

1: drive car. 2: connect charger plus to plus and charge it. 3: connect jumper cables to donor car battery , start donor and it charges yours. 4: take it it out, and take it to any shop and say charge it. google this and get 1trillion hits. or utube it. same. or read this book http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Repair-Dummies-Deanna-Sclar/dp/076459902X

back up on post, see answers. do post the photo of your chassis number plate. xxxx out the end 3 number of the serial. (if worried)

wow, shocker, the 1st person EVA, to post a country, you are a brave man. love you. please post the photo of it, we can decode it , may be. the codes are at the dealer parts counter. and in the FSM. factory service manual 1st chapter. the codes are needed to buy parts and not get the wrong parts. chassis plate codes. (these do vary by country) Each country regulates the data in the plate. some countries, dont, and you get what ever. for some other country there are 55 markets, in some cars. good luck to you.!

mine does that too, just click the ignition real fast to start position then off and it stops

whining as what?

the fuel regulator is usually the culprit