1996 Volvo 850 - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

possible electric chk fuses or cluster problem

That definitely sounds like you need a new ignition.However,I believe there may be some sort of sensor to detect the ignition switch is on,but it would most likely result in basically all or nothing.All the lights would work or nothing would work.Keys and ignitions are definitely a wear out type of problem when your car gets to be that old.Another thing to consider is that if you do change the ignition,you still need the old key for the doorlocks and trunklock.I had a similar problem with my 1995 a few years ago.If you want to save a little money and are in the USA,I highly recommend a AAA approved shop.They are just as knowledgable and much less than a dealer and are more than capable of doing it correctly and honestly.I use one and they have consistently had the best price for repairs within a 20 mile radius so I do not even price shop anymore.If you have any questions or need more help,just comment here and I will get an autolink to your post and reply ASAP.I really encourage responses so I can follow up properly as I know where you stand and asking someone else restarts all the explaining because we cannot see other 'Expert's' responses.Good luck,Greg

When the heater is running you increase the flow of hot water providing more opportunity for it to cool down. You may have a blockage in one of the hoses or in the radiator core. A radiator flush may take care of the problem. Try the flush before proceeding with anything more costly.

You will need to replace the blend door actuators located inthe lower dash panel behind the stiffener board under the carpet. This will correct your temp control problem on your 1996 Volvo 850

Hi,

That volvo and most of modern cars today uses a small explosive charge, placed in that retaining gear of seat belts. It will be activated to a collision.

To activate that seat belt, you must replace the whole retaining gear with that same type of safety precaution system.

The only way you could get a cheaper normal seatbelt is to replace it with an ordinary retaining gear lock, mostly Japanese seat belt or the older pre 1990 type that has no explosive charge.


Hope that clears everything and tightens up your problem!


Thanks for using Fixya!

its behind the bumper but i think you get to it by takinig the grill out but dont quote me ,

First check the glove compartment for a sticker pasted inside & your radio manual if you still have it.
Otherwise Call a dealer. If they tell you that you have to come in person or want to charge you then call another. Even search for dealers over the internet. Most will give it to you over the phone, a smaller portion will want to either charge or make you come in person. Again, if that happens just call another dealer. If the radio is original, you can just give them the VIN. If you suspect it isn't or if the code they give you doesn't work then you need to pull the radio and gave them the serial number on it.

A code P0133 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

* The oxygen sensor is faulty
* The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed
* There is an exhaust leak

sounds like you need a new battery, also have the alternater checked. as far as the alarm, you should be able to disarm the system by locking and unlocking the passengers door, then the drivers door with the key, when the door are closed

Hi,

You will need to get the papers that came with your car, search all the documents that came with the car, the code to reset your car radio is written on one of the documents that came with your car. If you cannot get it, you will need to get the serial number on your radio and contact the dealer for the reset code, because, the dealers have the reset code, but you will need to tender prove of ownership before this can be done. You can also try 4877 as the code to unlock your radio.

If an ABS light turned on then your ABS pump burned up. If you have cruise control then these will go up in flames also. If the car has air suspension then the compressor may have burned up. Check these options and get back to me and I can give you an absolute answer if you like. Thanks, Rich

fan resister located near the blower motor underneath the glove box. L,M,MH operate on resistors and high speed bypasses the resistor so your resistor plug is burnt out on the first three speeds if you still have high speed.

Hi,
The problem is likely to be the control module which from memory is under the dash behind the panel above your knees. The only repair is to change the module. In saying this I am assuming that all the relevant wireing, particularly the earth is intact and connected.

The codes that are set by the compuuter systems are just to let you know what circuit the problem is in not what part is bad. Then you have to do pinpoint test to find out where in the circuit the problem is. Check the star wheel and make sure it is there and is not broke or any teeth missing. Then check the clearance between the sensor and star wheel. Ohm wires from the sensor to computer. Check the condition of the plugs. If all test good the computer is bad. Due to the cost of the computer I check the circuit with a lab scope. This test is done by back probing the wires right at the computer. This will tell you for sure whether or not there is a problem in the circuit.

Usually when the fan does not work then it is a relay that is located under the dash on the passenger side. It is kind of behind and to the left side of the glove compartment. I would replace this relay first. It is cheap and pretty easy to get to.

It is most likely that the clutch has finally failed and needs to be replaced. If you wish to do this yourself and would like directions on doing so, let me know and I will get some to you. How does the pedal feel?

fuel system too rich.

Yes, it sounds like it is a fuel problem, whether it be the fuel pump, or more probably the catalytic converter. That check engine light can be checked by a mechanic where they can hook up to the engine and get the true error code to know why the light came on. Most often, it is an indicator that there is a problem with the catalytic converter. When that light goes on, the engine usually will run itself at reduced power. This could be why you are stalling when it is idle. Another thought is clogged fuel injectors, can't be sure, bring it to a mechanic for sure.
Good luck!! EJ Kudelka

Only certain engines need to be purged of the air in there, some engines have a plug on the top for it, some have to be filled on a slant or jacked up, some don't need anything. But you do want to use a premix coolant, 50/50 right out of the jug, or if the old coolant is clean, pour it back in. The tranny oil you don't have to worry about. I would fill it up, keep an eye on the temp gauge and check it every day. If it needs filling, top it off with the same, fill the expansion tank too. If it overheats, then I would check on the purge, It will effect the engine. I can look it up for you, but you can use the google thing too. Hope this helps.

temperature sensor on the radiator check that this is opening