Yes, if the pcv valve is clogged or not properly connected to the air inlet, it can allow more blowby. However, if there a lot of miles on the engine, it might be time for new piston rings. Run a compression test on all cylinders.
any check engine lights/codes?, maybe that oil sprayed onto a connector somewhere and caused an issue, most the time the connectors are sealed but if one was broken or old and cracked it could let oil in between the contacts and cause an issue.
im not going to tell you its a cam or crank sensor with knowing for sure you are the one that needs to do that diagnostic, sorry..
anyways that's an intricate problem for sure and many things need to be checked before condemning one part or another.
i have seen coils fried from excessive cranking under no start conditions, they can be ohmed out to see if they are bad, disconnect them and remove them from the car and ohm them out with a digital meter and compare it to spec, ohm out the primary and secondary windings . the crank sensor most likely gets a signal from a reluctor wheel which is a piece of metal behind the crank with pieces cut out of it, clean it off and make sure the crank sensor face is clean too.
i would go in that order, dont condemn a part just because you think its bad. next with the main relay it can be checked or "jumped" but i dont want to suggest how because it could fry something electrical if done improperly, about the best advice i could give with the main relay is try to get it out smell it to see if you smell any burnt smells, and last open it up and check solder joints for cracks with a magnifying glass. if you see any cracks have someone thats good with a soldering iron fill the cracks and go from there.
good luck and any feedback will help in your journey to fix this thing.
dont get discouraged and once again if it has a code start there, even if its a history code or pending
could be from
bad injectors
air in fuel
leakdown from problem pressure regulator valve
glo-plugs not operating
pump not producing the desired pressure
at this point I suspect that injectors/ pump need reconditioning as the unit is 21 years old probably never having either serviced
take it to an accredited diesel specialist shop for a proper diagnosis and quote
code p 0102 refers to mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow(VAF) sensor--low input===causes ---wiring short to ground--MAF/VAF sensor---ecm
check the wiring to the unit--plug connection
You may have a bad positive battery cable, with a digital volt meter you can test and see if you are getting 12 volts through the entire cable or at least to the cable junction block, in or by fuse relay center, then check cable from there to starter. you should also check the main, battery, power, fuses and relays, usually in the under hood relay center(fuse box)
Car Repair Maintenance How to Check if Relay Is Bad
Volvo 850 (1993-1995) Service Light Reset
Under the hood there are 2 diagnostic units (labeled A and B on the cover) next to the washer reservoir.
1. Turn on the ignition and open diagnostic unit A.
2. Locate the flylead (the test wire that is in the plastic holder).
3. Insert the flylead into socket 7.
4. Press the large round test button on the diagnostic unit 4 times, briefly but firmly.
5. When the LED flashes and then stays lit, it will accept the reset code.
6. The reset code for the service light is 1-5-1.
7. Press the large round test button firmly one time and then release it. The LED should be lit.
8. Press the button firmly 5 times and then release it. The LED should be lit.
9. Press the button firmly one more time and then release it. The LED will flash several times.
10. Turn off the ignition switch and replace the flylead in its holder and close the cover.
The Service Light has now been reset.
The stock fuel pump pressure should be around 44 PSI and it should hold that pressure for quite a while. If it bleeds of quickly after the pump stops (key off) it indicates a bad check valve
Well, you changed everything, Now you have to go after the fuses,relays, ignition switch and wiring. Wiring I would rule out, because it works when cold. So I would check all the fuses, pull them out, most likely good because everything works when cold. Pulling them gets rid of the corrosion problem. Then pull the relays, swap them, where you can. This will narrow down a bad relay. Some thing won't work after it gets warm/hot. besides a no start. After all that, I would go after the ignition switch. they do go bad and do a lot worse than your problem.
Since I don't know if you have replaced that shock or have replaced both, I will cover as many instances as I can here. Let me know of any other details including work that's already been done (and the parts that got used).
1) If you have replaced the damaged shock assembly, ensure that its mount inside the trunk under the carpet where the wheel well is located is properly installed. There are two bolts that secure it in place.
2) If that appears OK then it's possible that during the failure of the shock the mounting to the body could be distorted. Have that checked at a properly-equipped shop.
3) If you are sure that the body itself is intact, ensure the shock receiver cup hasn't buckled. This is simply a bracket with a rubber bushing where the shock rests near the stub axle.
4) Compare the length of both shocks with the vehicle on a lift with at least the two rear wheels at full droop. Then do the same with the vehicle parked on level ground. Ensure that the values you find for each test do not exceed +-1-3 mm.
5) If you find a difference, it's possible that the other shock is failing as well. Shocks are usually replaced in pairs, optionally with their springs. During your failure, the spring on the failed shock could have compressed to the point of fatigue failure. It cannot be adjusted; it must be replaced. Do not attempt to compensate by shaving the other spring; this will leave the spring with fatigue cracks where it was trimmed and will fail quickly, possibly resulting in severe damage to the body.
6) Once all this has been done, have the vehicle geometry checked out by a properly-equipped shop. The easiest way is to have a four-wheel alignment done and see if the rear wheels show any difference; if the difference cannot be adjusted out then there is either frame damage or body damage present. In either instance, the repair is minimal.
are you getting power to the fan? could be a weak fan motor. I would start by checking Fuse then relay the check the temp sensor the fan don't use the same sensor as the temp gauge.
Try to get one of these for your car Goes Over all SystemsFor the American manufacturing company, see Haynes Automobile Company.The Haynes Owner\'s Workshop Manuals (commonly known as simply Haynes Manuals) are a series of practical manuals from the Haynes Publishing Group (LSE: HYNS) aimed at both DIY enthusiasts and professional garage mechanics. The series primarily focuses upon the maintenance and repair of automotive vehicles, covering a wide range of makes and models (300 models of car and 130 models of motorcycle), but it also includes manuals in the same style for domestic appliances and personal computers, digital photography and model railways, men[1] and babies,[2]Sex">sex,[3] and women.[4] The last four were made slightly tongue in cheek, but have proved very popular.Additionally they have released manuals based on popular fictional series including Star Trek[5] and Thomas and Friends.[6]
After I bought my '96 850, I found it had the same problem. In my case the speedometer worked fine, but not the odometer. A little research on the internet revealed that it's a common problem with these models.
There's a motor that drives the odometer separately from the speedometer, and the weak link in the chain is a tiny gear that turns the odometer when the motor runs. That gear is easily broken and even one missing tooth will disable your odometer.
The fix is relatively straight-forward, but requires you to remove the instrument panel and disassemble it in order to get to the motor housing and the broken gear. You won't have any trouble finding replacement parts on eBay that are much better made and will last you the rest of the life of the car. The difficulty level on this is about medium, but be careful when you've got the instrument panel disassembled; I wasn't cautious enough and ended up with a couple of my indicators out of alignment; my tachometer read zero when it was idling, and my fuel gauge only went up to 17 gallons when it was full, so I had to take it all apart again to reposition the gauges to get them to read correctly.
alot of problems stem from a worn out ignition tumbler, if you turn your key on is there play to wiggle it forward and back a little? its the culprit for so many issues believe it or not, Ive had my 850 turbo wagon for 15 years and know her like a book. mine does this and after i restart it its fine. my odometer stopped working and Its an easy but timely fix so i just left it as the service light comes on for service at the right mileage. anyway, if tumbler is good then your cable is going bad.
you have to watch utube video, or step by step it with a forum I've done mine and you have to be pretty mechanical, its no walk in the park and I'm way mechanical.
The Haynes Owner\'s Workshop Manuals (commonly known as simply Haynes Manuals) are a series of practical manuals from the Haynes Publishing Group (LSE: HYNS) aimed at both DIY enthusiasts and professional garage mechanics. The series primarily focuses upon the maintenance and repair of automotive vehicles, covering a wide range of makes and models (300 models of car and 130 models of motorcycle), but it also includes manuals in the same style for domestic appliances and personal computers, digital photography and model railways, men[1] and babies,[2] Sex">sex,[3] and women.[4] The last four were made slightly tongue in cheek, but have proved very popular.Additionally they have released manuals based on popular fictional series including Star Trek[5] and Thomas and Friends.[6]
