1989 Plymouth Sundance - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check the linkage it is out off adjustment or the bushing bad,all the best.

You just go to the link below, I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem https://www.reliable-store.com

it will self purge

Try looking for a YouTube video

Reset for what? What is the problrem

Check wire connection if ok replace fan

Sorry my X-ray vision and crystal ball are both offline today.

You will probably need to remove the exhaust manifold and starter to access the plug. Simply hammer a screw driver through the old plug and pop it out. Make certain the area is clean and dry. I always add a tad bit of ultra red RTV to the edge of the new plug, and hammer it in until it is straight and flush.

Switch bad or wiring in harness..use hands its stil legal

look om line for instructions for bleeding brakes. Letting the fluid run thru will not displace air resulting soft pedal

could be fuel pump or fuel filter that's only allowing so much fuel into engine.

Bleed both sides of the rear brake circuit. My opinion is if you're replacing one side of the brakes, they should both be done as both have been in service for the same amount of time. If the brake pedal wants to bounce back at you and/or feels spongy, it's an indication that air is still present in the system. I would completely change the brake fluid in the system (siphon the old fluid out of the reservoir before filling and bleeding to save time). Check the handbrake adjustment as well.

2005 plymouth voyager ??? Didn't make plymouth vehicles that year . Plymouth Voyager/Grand Voyager Overview Manufacturer Chrysler Corporation (1974-1998) DaimlerChrysler (1998-2000) Also called Chrysler Voyager/Grand Voyager (Mexico; USA for 2000 only) Production Body and chassis Class Minivan (1984-2000) Full-size van (1974-1983) Chronology Successor Chrysler/Lancia Voyager (USA, 2001-2003, Mexico SWB until 2007)

it is extremely good practice to replace the following when doing a timing belt belt hydraulic adjuster all idler pulleys cam shaft seal/s crankshaft seal oil is the greatest destroyer of belts so seals are a must and all of the rest have done the same amount of work as the belt the motto is , do it once , do it properly and it will be good for another 60k miles or 100k klm might cost a bit more but it can all be done for an extra hour labor and there is no bent valves expected in the future

It is bolted to the intake with a pipe coming from the exhaust. See picture below

It means there is a problem with the fuel tank level sensor, does the gas gauge read correctly? It is safe to drive.

A car that old has seen better days. I would do a compression test, it's only 4 cylinders, will tell you the internal condition of the engine. Just disable the fuel pump (pull fuse or pump relay) or injectors, whichever easiest, and also disable the coil. You can rent or buy compression gauge testers rather cheap.

Yes, you will need a clamp tool to replace the boots after you get the tie rod changed. Just cut off the old band clamp.

Oxygen and Acetylene is ideal but MAP GAS or Propane can be used. They just take longer to get red. Getting the part hot will expand the metal but turning the threaded area red will dissolve rust build up. Don't try to spin the part immediately. With two pairs of large pipe wrenches or two large vice grips. Rock the threads back and forth repeatedly. 6-8x will usually work the rust away and allow the tie rod to be spun off. Cranking and turning the tie rod in one direction sometimes causes the rust to build up and seize the threads again. Because of tolerances you may need to wait for the part to cool down before the threads will start to move. Hope this helps. Good Luck.

I think the Chrysler method for obd-1 was Cycle key from on to off for ...was it three times...maybe five. but you go on, off, on, off, on, off, on and leave key in on (with engine off) and count the flashes from the dash mil light. They are only, of course, two digit codes. So like, code 24 would be two long flashes, and pause, then four short flashes. There aren't too many codes, maybe about three dozen. You can google "obd 1 codes, Chrysler" and find plenty of information on codes and descriptions.