1989 Plymouth Sundance - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

1. Use a turkey baser to remove all the fluid from the reservoir. It's likely empty already if you did rear lines. Also, pack rags under the reservoir to catch spills. 2. Use a brake line wrench to crack the bleeder valve. (not OPEN, just see if it moves) Attach a 2' pc of surgical tubing to the bleeder. Run it into a jar. Pour 1" of fluid into the jar. I like to duct tape the jar to a board to prevent spills. Tape the tubing to the jar too. 3. Have a buddy sit in the driver seat. Have them tap-tap and hold steady pressure on the brake pedal. (you don't have to KILL it) When they say "K!", you open the bleeder. Note the passage of air bubbles and fluid into the tube. After about 4 seconds, close the bleeder and repeat. The first wheel will take a WHILE. Each after will be a bit quicker. Watch the accumulation and quality of fluid in the jar for a clue as to how you are progressing. 4. Top off the reservoir and repeat for the next wheel. Bleed, RR, LR, RF, LF (generally. some cars vary). The pumper buddy must know NOT to drive the pedal past the normal distance or else he'll damage the master cylinder and it will have to be replaced. Also, he must know NOT to lift his foot before you close the bleeder, else he'll draw air back into the system. Just keep steady pressure. He'll feel the pedal drop as you open the bleeder each time. Takes PATIENCE. They sell vacuum bleeders, but they suck. They're cheap tho. They sell pressure bleeders and they are GOOD if you can find one to fit your car. They're expensive tho, like $60. MOTIVE makes one (I have it). These work by pressurizing the reservoir. That way you can bleed without a buddy. There's two methods with these. You can pour the fresh fluid into the pump and do the whole car without stopping. I find it messy. I like to top off the res and pressurize each wheel. MUCH cleaner. Both systems work fine tho. TomJV

Google Image the schematics and it will show you where it is

Traditionally the hazard switch is where the direction indicators are switched from the indicator stalk switch and ignition switched supply to battery supplied hazard lights. By 1996 these functions were rapidly being computerised so taking things for granted is definitely unwise. I strongly suggest you obtain a wiring diagram before getting too involved...

stuck relay wire short

You will get the diagram from the given link along with service and repair manual from the given link https://toolsnyou.com

A no crank issue is pretty easy to diagnose. If you have a 12v test light ground the clip end and probe the small lead on the solenoid. If you get a light when the key is turned to the start position and there is 12v at the large post, you have a starter issue.

Hey try Google image they have everything

This video will show you exactly where it's located. In front of engine, in thermostat box. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjYufVTkBak

Engine Computer is on the left front fender under the relay center. Transmission computer is on the right front fender. Body control module is inside the cabin, under the dash, behind the fuse panel

Go to auto zone website Cirlk repair guides

How is the oil pressure? If its low it could be the big end bearings.

The regular fuel filter (the one that you or I could change) is somewhere along the frame under the van. Follow the fuel line from the tank or from the throttle body. It should look like a canister maybe about 2 - 2.5" in diameter and maybe 3-3.5" long.

Check for blowed fuses.

I take help from online websites that have this service like helping in repair some like reliable-store have instant help.. others are a bit sl ow which I don't prefer... rest is up to u.. U can also get free manuals

need more info (what happens when you lightly press the accelerator)

the water pump is another side, what I will do put the head gasket fix, the good one$30.00 read the instruction. I did this works 100%.

The carburetor may be flooding with gas.Sticking closed choke may also be at fault or both.If you are using fuel with ethanol in it, the carb may be damaged from the fuel.

The front and rear ac units have different heater cores. The front core may be blocked and needs to be flushed out. You can check this by locating the front heater hoses and feeling them to see if they are hot. If they are cold then disconnect one hose and connect a garden hose to it. Take off the radiator cap ( make sure that the radiator has cooled down and there is no pressure in the system) and flush out the heater core.

Most likely the air flow diverter/blocker isn't moving. Can it only blow from the dash vents or can you get floor heat as well? If not then most certainly that is your problem and if it's never been serviced it may need replacement. Good luck!

3569 cm3 / 217.8 cui