20 Most Recent 1998 Volkswagen Golf - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Check for a clogged catalytic converter.

Do the RPMs raise?

if the powersteering pump is belt driven,check if the belt is not slipping or loose.also check the fluid in the bottle is not low.do you have a leak?

have u checked the oil level ? some times they have a sensor and cuts off engine for safety reasons ,u should add iol if low let it set and check again

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Camshaft sensors are essentially a two-part contrivance. One is a magnet that is cast into the cam. The other is a coil of wire, the pickup. Each time the cam rotates one complete revolution the magnet passes by the pickup, creating a small DC voltage. Connecting a meter to the sensor and cranking the engine over will reveal the pulses. Keep in mind that the cam only rotates 1/4 the speed the crank does so it takes 4 complete turns of the crank to make the camshaft turn 1 complete turn. This means you cannot just crank the engine over a little and expect to see anything, it will take several revolutions. Also keep in mind that you never ever want to engage any starter longer than a maximum of 15 seconds. Exceeding this can overheat and potentially damage the starter motor. I seriously doubt the magnet on the cam has lost it's magnetism or fallen out so if anything is wrong the pickup coil could have a internal short across some windings, effectively reducing by a fair amount the amount of energy produced by it when the magnet passes by it. The pickup could possibly be loose or has backed-out of it's mounting hole increasing the distance between the magnet and the pickup creating a low or no-go induction of the voltage that is necessary for proper operation of the sensor. You probably have a digital voltmeter for testing and it might be a bit difficult to see the pulses on that type unless it has a "reading hold" feature like many Fluke brand meters do. An older type meter with a needle might make it easier to spot the pulses as the swinging of the needle takes time (both on the upstroke and the downstroke) which makes the transition appear to take longer than it really does. You'll want to set it to read low DC voltage, perhaps 5 volts or less (I'd expect maybe 1 to say 1 & 1/2 volts). There could be a similar sensor for the crank as well so the computer knows what position each is in and therefore if the fixed relationship between the two changes such as occurs when the timing "jumps" due to a worn timing belt or chain.

Hi,Is it Auto or manual? Auto then I have replaced the multifunction switch for the issue on many ocassion. With manual it is normaly the reverse light switch on the gearbox.

Please check the following:
1. The fuse forr the washers normally it comes with the wipers. If open replace.
2. The motor to the washer must be checked , use a multimeter to check voltage when the washer is triggered, if present but the washer is not working the motor has failed and must be replaced.
3. If voltage is not present and fuse is good then the wire link must be checked, it can be open.
4. If motor is working with no pumping the pump can be faulty or the tube to the injector can be damaged.

ok well i am not sure why you are just replacing parts test, retest then replace. its much cheaper inthe long run to follow that rule. So i checked you other post and it seems to me you have a check ball sticking in the transmission or some other problem in the trani. when shifting into 2nd if you push the clutch back in will the engine keep running or does it continue on the down spiral to dieing?
if you push the clutch in and the engine runns again then you might want to look at the trani, check the clutch plate. you may even have a vacuum leak just check everything over most of the time in the shop its the one thing staring me in the face. good thing the problem is broken wires and holers in hose cuz if it were snakes I wouldn't be typing this. if you need more help trouble shooting this just post a reply on here for me. Ill get back to you as soon as i can.

Hello Travis, from your description it sounds like a fuel delivery problem. You can check the fuel pressure regulator by connecting your fuel pressure gauge. With engine running at idle, disconnect the pressure regulator, the fuel pressure should increase 5-10 psi---if it does not, the regulator is defective. Also check your MAF sensor, you can remove and clean it with an electronic contact cleaner. (spray can) also check for vacuum leaks, hoses, etc. as unmetered air entering the engine under load or deaccelreation will cause the exhaust "backfire"

Good luck & i hope this helps FixYa!

ALPHINE CODE IS RADIO CODE, IF YOU LOST RADIO CODE. THE VOLKSWAGON DEALERSHIP HAS TO RESET THE RADIO CODE.

to keep the warranty take it back to the dealer and tell him all that started after he did work on your car

Give me some more information about this problem. May be i can help.

I had this same problem and it turned out to be an issue with the starter.