Yup I pulled up to my parents house and shut off my 2001 Ford Focus. I was inside maybe 10-15 minutes. But instantly popped the #8 30amp maxi fuse when I went to restart it ??. Thank you for all of the specs/info it's def going to help the search for the short
Sorry Andrew , no BCM on this vehicle . The
Central Security Module is incharge of power door locks .
Central Security Module
For additional information, refer to Section 419-10 .
The central security module is equipped with a battery back-up which holds the programmed transmitter(s) memory in the event of the vehicle battery disconnection.
Principles of Operations
The Door Switch Lock Function
When a door lock switch is moved into the lock position or a door lock cylinder is rotated to the lock position, the door lock switch grounds the lock circuit input to the central security module. The central security module then provides 12 volts to one side of the door lock actuators contained in the door latch unit and simultaneously grounds the other side of the door lock actuators. This completes the door lock actuator circuit, causing the door lock actuators to rotate a cam assembly, which then locks the doors.
The Door Switch Unlock Function
When a door lock switch is moved into the unlock position, the door lock switch grounds the unlock circuit input to the central security module. The central security module then provides 12 volts to the opposite side (relative to locking the door) of the door lock actuator(s) contained in the door latch unit and simultaneously grounds the other side of the door lock actuator(s). This completes the door lock actuator circuit, causing the door lock actuator(s) to rotate a cam assembly in the opposite direction, which then unlocks the door(s). The 12 volts which the central security module provides to the door lock actuator(s) are provided to each door lock actuator from the individual pins on the central security module connector.
Keyless Entry
When a remote transmitter button is depressed, it transmits the appropriate command to the central security module as a radio frequency. The central security module receives the command from the remote transmitter through an antenna, which is incorporated in the central security module.
When the central security module receives a command from the remote transmitter, it then sends the appropriate output to control the desired devices. These outputs devices include:
The front and rear door lock units.
Central timer module (CTM).
The liftgate release motor.
The right and left side turn signal lamp(s).
The central security module sends a signal to the CTM when courtesy lamp illumination is required.
Computer Operated Locks
Each front door lock actuator contains a bipolar motor that controls the lock and unlock linkage. The lock/unlock lever of both front door interior handles use linkage to actuate the lever lock switch located inside each front door lock actuator. Each lever lock switch remains in the unlock position until lock/unlock lever of the interior door handle is moved to the lock position. This action toggles the lever lock switch to the lock position. The central security module uses only one electrical input for both lever lock switches. The central security module cannot determine whether the driver or passenger door lever lock switch was actuated. Therefore, actuating the lock feature from either front door will have the same affect of locking all doors. Actuating the unlock feature will not unlock any other door.
The door lock control switches for both front doors also use only one input to the central security module.
Both rear passenger doors contain a rear door lock actuator that controls only electric lock or unlock of the door. Actuating the lock/unlock lever at either rear passenger door will have no effect on other doors.
The panic feature of the remote transmitter sounds the vehicle horn when the vehicle is not equipped with anti-theft. If the vehicle is equipped with anti-theft feature, a separate horn is sounds for the panic feature.
Probably sorted by now but in case anyone gets the same problem. Check all the red fuses in the main fuse box, not just the one the handbook says it should be. The main fuse box is behind the glove box...push in the sides and the gb will drop down....the fuse box is facing you.
check the wire on the the switch by removing it normally two or three screws hold it in place,if wires are tight remove them and replace the switch unless you can adjust the plunger
I just had the recline of my driver seat go out today. What happened to mine was the interior plastic of the handle that wrapped around the release mechanism fell apart all I had to do was take the handle off. I used a small Crescent wrench to to pull the lever mechanism towards the trunk. The same direction the handle would of pulled it, and it made the chair recline I got it set to where I liked it and now I'm just going to use some bondo and put the handle back on. Most fixes doesn't require the entire assembly to be replaced and taking it to the dealership will just have them charge you for the entire price for the system regardless of how simple of a fix it actually was. I have saved my self thousands of dollars doing simple fixes my self, and if you have even the slightest amount of intellect you can do it too.
Sounds like a worn gear linkage, If its the 2nd and reverse other than that its the Synchro inside the gearbox, either way sounds like a gearbox off and back on.
You can determine the above if you got it looked over by a mechanic thou to be honest theres not much an answer but a rough idea.
I just removed my front grill yep had to break it off, but easyly and neatly and use black tie wraps from b & q to put it back its just a cover nothing more folks use double tie put together to lenghen to your needs, on your bumpers at the either side near head lights there are plastic clips thread them through there and then place grill back through, a bit fiddly but it can be done, use pin nose pliers or tweezers to pull tie wraps back through and tie off.
Now the lock, mine was a swine, i gave it thought and thought and after really cutting me knuckles. found that where the housing is around the lock, the housing at the sides going to the back are plastic u just drilled these away to hole big enough to allow me to get a 10 ring spanner in and enough room ie cut more away if needed to undo the 2 bolts holding the lock in place, this way is easier and quicker by miles. i did the same on the other side i checked before doing any of this, and it does not matter as there is a black plastic cover over the latch you will this once open, that covers it all up. and you can,t see anyting once you put the grill back, try it i have some pics i will put on here so check mmm out, i tried for ages and i did it this way, you don,t have to its just a way to do it, it worked for me and i did my mates as well, and you can,t even tell.
You have a loose connection on a wire sum wire on the radio id take the radio out in make sure every thing is tight where it needs to be in change the fuse on the back of the radio
2002 ford focus cold start problem. turns over but will not start. cannot hear fuel pump.. keep turning key on and off and finally hear fuel pump come on and car will start.
Do you know what a wiring diagram is for ? How to use a DVOM - digital volt ohmeter to test electrical circuit's ? None of the headlamps work ? hi or lo beams ? Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine size. Under system click on lighting , then under subsystem click on headlamps . Click the search button then the blue link . Looking at the diagram i see fuse's light switch , multifuction switch , relay's - hi & lo an the headlamp assembly's .
Now watch this video
Mastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry Truglia
The good news is that you are going to most likely be able to fix this program with your 2001 Ford Focus Key Fob. Follow the steps below and you should be able to get it working again:
1) Change the battery
Batteries don't last forever, you'll be surprised how often it's just a dead battery! Click here for a video on how to open a GM key fob, or search our YouTube channel on how to change a battery for your specific year, make, and model!
2) Wipe the board
The board inside your remote can get a lot more filthy than you think! When the board is dirty it can prohibit the contact to the circuit board when you push down on the button. Simply wiping the circuit board off can make your key fob like new again!
3) The old car battery reset trick
I know this sounds absurd, but it works sometimes and is worth trying. If you exhausted all of the options above, disconnect bot terminals on your car battery for 10 minutes. Then reconnect them and try your key fob. This has worked for many people and I have no idea why. If you do, please comment below to explain.
4) Get it checked
Go to your local hardware store like AutoZone or Oreilly's. They usually have a RF frequency tester. This little gadget will let you know if your key fob is sending a signal. If it is, you may need to reprogram your key fob to your vehicle
5) Reprogram:
*** THERE ARE 2 POSSIBLE PROGRAMMING PROCEDURES. ***Procedure #1Note: Obtain all remote transmitters for this vehicle.
Note: Do not depress the brake pedal during procedure.
Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 10 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming mode. (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.)
Within 20 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. If you only have one remote then skip to step 4.
Within 20 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 3. For all other remotes.
Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.
Procedure #2Note: Obtain all remote transmitters for this vehicle.1Fasten seat belts and close all doors.
Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 4 times within 6 seconds, with the 4th time ending in RUN. (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.)
Turn ignition to OFF. Acoustic signal will sound and system warning lamp will illuminate to confirm programming mode.
Within 10 seconds, press and hold any button on the first keyless remote. Wait for acoustic sound and warning lamp to flash (confirming programming) then release button on remote. Wait 2 seconds but within 10 seconds repeat step 4. For all other remotes. If you only have one remote then continue to step 5.
Turn ignition to Crank or wait 10 seconds to end programming mode.
I'd definitely check battery and battery cables. In the past, I had a vehicle where the lights at night would brighten and dim a little on their own, drove me crazy, at the moment, I can't remember if battery or battery cables, one or the other. Just my opinion.
