1994 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Have your temperature sending unit checked to be sure the computer is taking it out of cold start mode. Most likely it is not working and still dumping too much fuel into the engine and causing the high reading. Think about what I just said, makes sense doesn't it.

First off the thermostat is way to low of a temperature you are wasting fuel. That said you either have a p[lugged heater core (very unlikely) or you have a air temperature control blend door problem.

It could and most likely is a faulty Fuel pump.

http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/read-gm-2-digit-obd-codes-free.php

Pulling the tank is a hassle best avoided. If you just need to change the pump/sending unit it is way easier to lift the bed of the truck and hold it in place with lumber scraps. If you have your heart set on removing it then why not just do it once. Most of the guys around here just cut an access hole above the pump location ( with the tank removed ) then fab up and weld in a frame with a recessed lip and a plate to drop in.

you can get the gasket for about $20. REmove the pan bolts and it should drop straight down. When you tighten back up make several rounds around the pan tightening bolts so they tighten evenly. DO NOT fully tighten each bolt before moving to the next bolt. if you take itt in plan on paying about $150 to $200.

There is a jumper on the timing circuit you have to remove. Set timing and put jumper back.

1994 Chevrolet K1500 under hood wire harness Google Search there are a few here.

The last pieces in the chain are the fuel regulator and the injectors. The regulator is inside the throttle body, but it sounds that maybe the injectors are not firing. For nothing else, check out the connections to the injectors. Possibly they are clogged. Try a few treatments of injector cleaner.

Call Helm inc or go on line they print all of the factory manuals for the big car companys .You can get them way cheaper then a dealer .With a chevy these things are worth there in gold .

This could be a whole range of problems from lack of fire to engine to a bad fuel pump or pressure regulator in the TBI but if all of that is good then check the Cat. converter to make sure it is not plugged or the muffler. As I have 1994 Chev Silverado myself I know you can pull the 02 sensor out ahead of the cat. and it should run better not well but better. It will relieve the back pressure to the engine.

mostly all vehicles have a relay and fuse for fuel pump. it should be located in under hood fuse and relay box. good-day !

Wow. A snapped side shaft sounds serious. If you lift the front end of the truck, (or the rear end for that matter) the wheels will appear to be counter rotating, it is the way a differential works. If you turn the left wheel forward, the right wheel will turn backwards, and vice versa. When you change to 4wd the front end does make a rather loud clunking sound as the gears engage. You should therefore change while the truck is stationary, then slowly move forward or back until the 4wd engages, then take off. If your truck went OK on ice, it should go as well on pavement, just don't try to engage 4x4 while moving.

Not as long as the fuel pump relay is functional.

Firing order 18436572 driver side head is 1357 pass side 2468

Spray some carb cleaner around the intake manifold you may have a leak there or possibly a vacume leak. If the idle changes when spraying thats where you look. good Luck

Being your truck is a 1994, that means it's the OBD I operating or computer system. Now, if you know of someone that has a scanner that can read OBD I that would be great. What you are looking for is a scanner which can read live data as the engine is running, NOT simply a code reader. You didn't say that the check engine or service engine light was on, but what I suspect is wrong won't "throw a code" so it doesn't matter if the light is on or not. I highly suspect the coolant temperature sensor, NOT the coolant temperature sender, is bad. I ran across 2 vehicles back to back that had the same basic symptoms you have described. One was an OBD I system, the other was OBD II. Both vehicles showed during a 'live scan' that the coolant temperature sensor was telling the computer the engine was -40°!!! Yup, MINUS 40°. This caused the engine to be getting fuel dumped into it like it was 40° below 0, even after the engine was warmed up. The coolant temperature sensor tells the computer that the engine is cold, getting warm, or is completely warmed up. As the 'puter is getting this info, it adjusts the air/fuel ratio, timing, etc. to make the engine run the most efficient. The computer can only go by the info being fed by the sensors, oxygen, coolant temp. manifold air pressure, throttle position, etc. If any of these sensors go bad and start 'lying' to the computer, the 'puter don't know the difference and adjusts according to the info received. Some of the sensors, when bad, WILL throw a code. The coolant temperature sensor will NOT throw a code but it will cause a poor running vehicle. Change the sensor. It should cost less than $10. Hope this helps.

its possible the shifters linkage is bent

FUEL FILTER,COULD BE CATALYTIC CONVERTER.

try replacing the blower resistor,its mountednear the blower motor