1994 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

COULD BE A BAD THERMOSTAT! OR LOW ON ANTIFREEZE!

Depending on the diff (they use 4 different diffs) no more than 2 qts of gear lube. Most will take just a little over a quart to a quart and half.

i would first look at the blower motor resistor before the switch this is located be hind the glovebox. I would also have the blower its self checked out. the switchs these year truck are very good and rarely go bad

First change the thermostat and make sure to blead the system of all air, if you still get no heat then replace the heater core.

you have to undue the shock and you will be able to push the spindle up so you can get room to remove the ball joint

This wiring diagram of the 4X4 circuit might help.

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in the fuse panel. look in your owner's manual for the fuse panel location. there is usually a small one under the hood and a larger one under the dash.

Take out the 7 or 8 bolts that hold the lower cover on on the passenger's side under the dash. Make sure to get the ones way up by the firewall. Unhook the lines going into the core under the hood. Take off the screws that hold the core in place. You're lucky because it's one of the easiest, kinda like the factory thought in advance.

It could be your spring on your emergency brake pedal is weak causing the light to go on or flicker.

its an actuator for climate control may be jamed try turnig on & off your a/c or find it and give a little push on the lever or the flapper itself

Yes, It sounds like internal issues with your compressor. Perhaps a bearing, so it must be replaced.

Yes you can. You need to use a New venture 5speed and the adapter to bolt up to the transfer case. Also if you are using the fuel injection system you need to replace the ecm with one for a manual trans.

they are a pain in the neck, first you will have to take wheel off, remove nut holding upper ball joint in, this part is where it becomes a pain you have to cut the rivits off the old ball joint than use a ball joint press to push it out install is a little easier you just bolt the new one in with the included bolts. hope this helps

possibly restricted exhaust flow

alldata.com have diagrams for any thing u can think of

most common problem for these is the temp. sensor which screws into the intake manifold near the thermostat. the thermostat housing is what the upper radiator hose attaches to, it may trick you cuz the temp gauge will still work, this is because their are 2 temp. senders and the other one rarely goes out when you buy one the parts house will probably ask you if its the one for the gauge, or the computer, you want the one for the computer.

go to hardware store and get a tube of construction adhesive in the silicone tubes that they use for tub surrounds and apply it onto mirror and retaining plate, it will NEVER fall off again guaranteed! Costs approx $5-6

Replace the ground on the back of the motor to the firewall, or ground from the hold down clamp on the distributor to the battery ground . Good Luck

not to bad as long as you have a set of oxygen and acetalyne torches, a sawsall with metal blade. Heat one nut at a time on the manifold and remove then go to next ! you do not want those to break or strip cause then you will have a world of pain.

You have a faulty dimmer switch.