1994 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There is a updated version of the intake manifold gasket set because they are so prone to leaking, a quick pressure test of the cooling system should determine if the intake is leaking or not do not exceed the rated pressure stamped on the radiator cap or serious damage can result

No need for guess work.
You can run a wire from the fuel pump positive to a dash an LED with a resister on it so it can work with 12 volts. Then you will see if the pump is getting voltage or not. This will allow you to eliminate ECU, relay, and probably the PMD (depending on exactly what that is).

But this does not discount the need to check things like the fuel filter, the gas tank vent or purge valve, etc. And you should still check the fuel rail pressure. It would not hurt to have a dash gauge for the fuel pressure as well.

your ignition lock need to be replaced

There is a system called the "cold start routine" which is initiated everytime the engine is started. The routine changes the fuelmix and the timing and basically makes the engine run rich for less than 90 seconds.It is the equivalent of a choke on a carbureted engine. It uses a temperature sensor to activate and you can have 2 temperature sensors as 1 is dedicated to the dash gauge and the other to the Engine Management system. It may operate on water temp or engine block temperature.The O2 replacement is a remote possibility, but the earlier testing should have detected this problem.If the EGR was suspect, did the EGR passages get a cleaning before the new part was installed? If the passages were blocked with the old part, then they would remain blocked with the new. But for the EGR you should have problems beyond startup.There is advanced testing equipment which can be attached to the car. All scanners are not equal. First, the onboard computer is covering a limited amount of functions and is basically a "Read-only" memory. The better testing equipment has its own Memory and allows the Mechanic to type in instructions because this scanner is a "Read/Write" device.The Mechanic is prompted through a Menu which covers more devices than a base scanner and gives better details to the user. This device is attached to the car and then the car is driven.Codes are not a cure all. The Vacuum system is unmonitored. Codes won't tell you your Air filter is dirty or the fuel filter is plugged. But I see you have changed some of this.Check your MAP and Mass Airflow sensors. Clean with Electronics clener. If anyone sprayed Gumout or Carb cleaner, the components may be bad now.I work on mostly Ford makes, they have an Idle control solenoid for low end RPM regulation. If GM uses this system, the valving may be dirty.Finally, the fuel can easily be a problem. Take a fuel sample, let the fuel settle in a clear glass jar, Beer bottles are too dark(We tried it).Hope my info is helpful, please rate my info.

Your control module.That is mounted on the back part of the distributer is shot.

lying for three years your compression is probably down yes i would drain make sure no water in gas tank

should be able to set timing by twisting distributor to bring idle back up to a normal range.

It's an easy but physically demanding if you do not have a pneumatic set of tools. The specialty tools you will first have to get your hands on are a Tie Rod remover. otherwise know as a (pickle fork). There are two sizes of these large for ball joint removal and small for Tie rod removal. Looks like a big 2 pronged fork. The next Tool is a Pitman arm remover. Usually you can rent or barrow them from your local auto parts store. Drive your blazer up on to a set of repair ramps. Block the rear tires.The bolt to the center link from the pitman arm has a crown nut on it with a cotter pin going threw it. Remove the cotter pin.and remove the crown nut. Then with the Pickle fork and a 5 lb. sledge hammer. place the pickle fork between the center link and the pitman arm bolt. Give the end of the Pickle fork as many good blows on the other end as it takes for the center link to release from the pitman arm. Once that is done take a break I know you'll need it. Next is the Pitman arm to the steering gear shaft. Hope you can get your hands on a good breaker bar or an impact wrench and a socket large enough for the steering gear shaft nut. Remove the nut. Then place the Pitman arm removal tool between the pitman arm and the steering gear housing. Start tightening the threaded rod the remover up against the shaft. It is hard as hell to remove because pitman arms rarely go bad. It's usually the center link that fails.It will take a lot of strength to remove and you may want to use a little penetrating lube on it. Once you get that off you may want to replace the steering gear shaft seal as well. Otherwise just reverse the removal steps. The shaft is notched and so is the pitman are make sure they line up. then Torque to spec.s If you plan on keeping the blazer get a repair manual from your auto parts store. It will help you put a great deal.

check the idlle control valve

could be a problem inside the alternatoryou might want to have it bench tested at a store

You are probably right in guessing the lock cylinder.The steering wheel comes off to get to the cylinder, and there are extra steps to handle the air bag.

it is mounted next to the brake pedal and looks like a square box

Mike, what excatly is the question here Are you just wanting to know how to remove the Ac compressor or do you want to run it without the compressor connected to the motor? If your just want to remove it to get it repaired or replaced they simply bolt on to the bracket and you will need to remove the hose connections as well, but that will release your gas in the cooling system and is not a good thing. Once the connections are removed you will need to have it serviced and filled by a qualified tech on ac systems to get it back to working order. Here are the basic instructions for removal. First you pull off the belt. Then pull off the plug. Then undo the bracket on the back of the compressor that connects to the manifold. Then pull off your freon lines. Watch for the freon to spray out. Undo the top bolts on the compressor first, and then undo the bottom bolts. Sometimes the bottom bolts, have a notch cut out of the washer head, and that's the only way you can pull them out. So look for the notch. Then you should turn the compressor to the right, and pull it up, because it has a lip welded in that doesn't let the compressor pull straight up. Then you repeat the steps in reverse order. You will have to recharge the system after you get it hooked up.

repressure test cylinders ,may have damaged head gasket in reassembly,heads might not be flat [slight warpage] may have damaged cylinder wall ,[water jacket ] block may not be flat ,and check the intake manifold itself and the gaskets for leaks can cause antifreeze to seep into engine

sometimes you have to use a prybar to pull the shaft out...you apply enough pressure and it will pull it past the c clip and come out ive had to do it and its about the only way to get the axle out

sparkplugs,spark plug wire and cap and rotor,if anything the stumble is from sparkplug wires

its not been wired in correctly ,

Long shoe in the back,ilIllustration is at the bottom of the page for some reason,scroll down!Click on a part in the image to check price & availability at your local store.PRINT DIAGRAMVIEW SOLUTIONS TO COMMON PROBLEMSBrake ShoesBrake DrumWheel CylinderBrake Lines and HosesBrake HardwareBearings & SealsThe Parking BrakeFlushing the SystemSelect a part to view solution for common problems associated with the item.Operation: Brake shoes provide the friction material that when forced against the friction surface of the drum stops the vehicle. Advice: Check the old brake shoes for uneven wear. Uneven wear from one side of the shoe to the other is an indication of loose or worn brake hardware. Uneven wear from the top of the shoe to the bottom is indication that the shoe is not contacting the drum correctly, usually due to a drum that is beyond wear specifications. Recommendations: Brake hardwareOperation: The brake drum provides the rotating friction surface for the brake shoes to interact with in stopping the vehicle. Advice: Check the friction surface for uneven wear, grooves or small stress cracks caused by excess heat. Uneven wear is an indication of lose or worn brake hardware. Grooves in the friction surface are an indication of brake shoes that have worn down to the metal rivets or brake shoe framework, or of debris lodged between the brake shoe and drum, possibly broken brake hardware. As long as the damage is not too severe, uneven wear can be corrected by resurfacing the drum. Check to make sure that the drum is within specifications before and after the resurfacing. A drum with heat stress cracks should be replaced. Recommendations: Resurface or replace the brake drums.Operation: The wheel cylinder converts the hydraulic pressure sent from the master cylinder into the mechanical force that pushes the brake shoes into contact with the brake drum to stop the vehicle. Advice: Check for moisture anywhere around the wheel cylinder. Moisture is an indication of a leaking wheel cylinder. A leaking wheel cylinder should be either rebuilt or replaced. If a wheel cylinder is allowed to leak brake fluid onto the new shoes, it will ruin the new shoes causing the brakes to grab and emit a growling or rumbling noise when applied. Recommendations: Rebuild or replace leaking wheel cylinders.Operation: The brake lines act as a conduit for the brake fluid, supplying each wheel with the hydraulic action necessary for brake operation. The system is made up predominantly with metal brake lines. Flexible hoses are used at the wheels to accomadate the movement of suspension and steering. Advice: Check metal brake lines for signs of corrosion, physical damage or leakage. Check flexible brake hoses for splits, cracking or signs of leakage. The brake lines are connected to the various brake components with hollow fittings called flare nuts or line fittings. Because flare nuts are hollow they are susceptible to damage if a normal open ended wrench is used to remove them. Flare nut wrenches, sometimes called line wrenches are special open ended wrenches designed to slide over the brake line and still provide maximum grip on all sides of the fitting. Apply a generous spray of penetrating oil to the threads of the fittings and allow it to soak in before loosening the fittings. Recommendations: Flare Nut Wrench set Penetrating sprayOperation: Brake hardware is a term used for all of the springs, clips, guide pins and other misc. pieces that hold the brake pads and calipers in place and guide their movement during brake application. Advice: Check for corroded, bent, worn out or broken springs, guide pins or clips. Damaged or worn out brake hardware can cause uneven wear on the new brake pads. To ensure the best results from your brake job, the brake hardware should be replaced with the new brake pads. Recommendations: Replace Brake hardwareOperation: The wheel bearings support the weight of the vehicle and allow the wheels to spin freely. Advice: All wheels will have some sort of bearing and a seal to hold in lubricant and keep out dirt. Some bearings are sealed in a hub assembly or pressed into an axle housing and can only be serviced by replacing them. Others such as tapered roller bearings can be cleaned inspected and repacked with grease. Use a can of spray brake cleaner to remove the old grease. Check the integrity of the cage holding the rollers in place. A loose wobbly cage is an indication of wear. Check the rollers for discoloration. Discoloration is an indication that the bearing has been subjected to excess heat and should be replaced. Always install a new race when replacing a bearing. Always install a new seal whenever servicing or replacing a bearing. Recommendations: Spray Brake cleaner Wheel bearing grease Wheel sealOperation: The parking brake on a drum brake system has a series of cables that when actuated from the driver's compartment moves the parking brake levers on both rear wheels, forcing the rear brake shoes against the friction surface of the drums to hold the vehicle in place. Advice: With the parking brake disengaged and the drum removed, check to ensure that the brake shoes are fully seated at the top and bottom anchors. If not the parking brake cable may be sticking internally and holding the brake shoes partially applied. A sticking parking brake cable should be replaced. Never adjust the parking brake cable until after normal brake shoe adjustment has been made. After normal brake shoe adjustment if the parking brake still does not hold the vehicle stationary, then the parking brake cable can be adjusted.Operation: Flushing the brake fluid removes old or contaminated brake fluid from the system replacing it with fresh brake fluid. Advice: Brake fluid is a hygroscopic fluid, which means that it is in its nature to absorb moisture from the air. Over time the amount of moisture accumulated will decrease the efficiency of the fluid to act hydraulically. Moisture in the brake fluid can also cause corrosion in the system. Brake fluid should be flushed every two years. Recommendations: Brake fluid

o2 sensors are located on the header pipe and on the catalyctic conververter on some vehicles. Spray with wd40 or the like before unscrewing it.