20 Most Recent 1996 Nissan Quest - Page 8 Questions & Answers

They are replaceable.
You can knock the broken studs out with a point chisel (wear safety glasses). Take the pieces and nut to an auto parts store in order to get the same nut size (don't want to use two tire tools/wrenches).

not surprised!!!!!! you are giving it a work out.go down a gear or turn the aircon off

To be honest,A/C repairs should not be attempted by a novice. It could be overcharged,bad compressor & clutch,or electrical.

You do not have to remove the alternator to have it tested, your local autoparts store will be able to test your system with it still in the car. Hope this helps :)

Sounds like your alternator might have gone bad. I don't know how long the time was between the two batteries going bad but your alternator is what keeps your battery charged. If you haven't left any lights or anything on with this second battery and nothing is shorting out causing the battery to lose all it's power, your alternator is shot and needs to be replaced. The good news is that they can test that for free at your local auto parts store and tell you if you need to replace it or not. Let me know if you have any further questions and thanks for using FixYa!

you have a bad solder joint in your heater control head. If you can solder, you can fix it. I will fix it for $25 and send you a control head. Then you send yours back to me.

Here's our Villager/Quest web site.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/links


You have to remove 4 plastic screws on console bottom. Then remove 2 screws at bottom of center trim panel. Then remove ash tray and 2 screws just above tray opening. Then 2 screws at top of center trim panel. Then pull off center trim panel. It has 2 spring clips in center.
Then remove 4 screws holding control head in.
Remove all electrical connectors.
remove thin plastic cover on bottom of unit. 2 plastic clips hold it on.
remove circuit board, and look on back side for crack around solder joint that is circled in red on picture. Or the joint next to it.
resolder the cracked joint. Don't heat the joint too much. Just enough to get solder to drop on to it.

might wanna try checking the starter, sounds like the solenoid is bad

check possible broken timing belt by....
removing the distributer cap , and having someone try to start the car .
While it's trying to start , the rotor should be moving... if it's not
timing belt is broken
It's a big job for someone without great skill and a great selection of car tools

go here for help
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/files/


Item Part Number Description 1 — A/C Compressor Drive Belt Idler Pulley Adjustment Bolt (If equipped)
(Part of 8678) 2 — A/C Compressor Drive Belt Idler Pulley Tensioner Bolt (If equipped)
(Part of 8678) 3 8678 A/C Compressor Drive Belt Idler Pulley (If equipped) 4 8620 A/C Compressor Drive Belt (If equipped) 5 2E884 A/C Clutch Pulley (If equipped) 6 10346 Generator 7 10344 Generator Pulley 8 11719 Generator Adjustment Bolt 9 — Generator Locking Bolt 10 8620 Generator Drive Belt 11 6312 Crankshaft Pulley 12 — Water Pump and Power Steering Pump Drive Belt Adjustment Bolt (Part of 8678) 13 8678 Water Pump and Power Steering Pump Drive Belt Idler Pulley 14 — Water Pump and Power Steering Pump Drive Belt Idler Pulley Locknut (Part of 8678) 15 3A733 Power Steering Pump Pulley 16 8620 Water Pump and Power Steering Pump Drive Belt 17 8509 Water Pump Pulley A — Tighten to 16-20 Nm (12-15 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 33-37 Nm (24-28 Lb-Ft)

yes. ebay has cheap radiators.

more help
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/files/

remove the 2 wire connector from the VSS, vehicle speed sensor on the top rear of the trans.
clean the VSS and the wire terminals with a terminal cleaner from radio shack.

go here for pictures, files on speedo, etc.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/files/

dont think all your message is on here dont know if you have replaced the coil or not but i think it could be ignition timing could be out or plugs could be faulty or leads hope i have helped you

O2 Sensor

the knock sensor is under the intake manifold, about a $600 repair. However, the knock sensor is never bad even if there is a code that says it is.

Likely you have a MAF sensor coated with varnish. Go here for detailed instuctions

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

Sounds like a plugged catalytic converter especially if the engine light isn't on. Just open the exhaust system ahead of the converter and see how it runs.

check 3 fan relays in use box by battery.

go here

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

In the fuse/relay box under the hood in front of the battery are 3 fan relays. 1 for low speed, and 2 for high speed. 1 of high speed is back up. check the relays first.
B3 CHECK FUSES

• Key OFF.
• Check the 10A RELAYS fuse located in the interior fuse junction panel and the 65A RAD FAN fuse located in the main fuse junction panel. (engine compartment)

pLease rate as fixya if this helps. good luck

was the engine overheating before this repair? and again do u have bubbles in the coolant tank when the engine is running?, this is best checked when the engine is 1st started. I ask because I think u may have a leaking cylinder head gasket, this would account for the overheating still occurring.

with a obd 2 scanner or code reader or try disconnecting the battery

744 is to do with your torque converter clutch circuit, intermittent malfunction. 325 is knock sensor malfunction. Has vehicle been shifting different, probably at highway speed? (cruising) Have you noticed engine "ping"/"rattle" on acceleration? These would be common occurences with these codes.