Patton Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Most have a one-time thermal fuse wired into the motor. You would have to remove cage and fan blade, unscrew motor mounts, open motor casing, locate fuse by cutting open or sliding off the thermal sleeves, cut fuse out and resolder a new thermal fuse in. Should be able to locate replacement thermal fuse online. Can also just splice ends together but then you lose thermal protection and a fire can result. It is a good temporary fix to diagnose if you have burnt out one of the motor coils.

You need to include more information: Model number would be helpful. You could also try checking your product manual and seeing if they list a way to unlock the phone.

Best place usually is grangers if you just need a motor. Take in motor and they can match up the exactone for you.

NO, you need to replace the switch.

Typically 'Heat 1' means first stage heat and 'Heat 2' means second stage heat. Essentially a Lo and Hi setting. Just like a hair dryer.

I would think the contacts are burning out on the line voltage thermostats. The contact areas have been reduced over the years so they last just past the warranty period. If it were mine, I'd locate a line voltage baseboard heater thermostat and adapt the control to operate the heater elements. Much higher amp rating and built more substantially.

The thermostat is probably shot. These units are repairable but disposable, meaning the repair will likely cost as much as a new unit.

Is it metal or plastic?

I would remove the outer fan shroud and then the blade assembly. Lay it on a lot of news paper and spray grease lighting on it then use soft bristle brush to clean it wash it off in bath tub set outside to air dry then reassemble. Don't use on electric motor.

You can check with the local hardware store.

it would be helpful to clarify if the fan doesn't turn ON or if the fan in fact does not turn, like on oscillate mode. has it worked for you in the past? or been defective since you purchased it?

M y mighty heater 1500 kicks on runs for 15sec and kicks off on & off on& off what do I need

most electric fans have steel rotor shafts with bronze bearings.they "call" them oilite bearings,susposedly because the bronze bushing (it is really a bronze bushing) but called a bearing, is oil impregnanted and susposed to be good for the life of the fan. that is only true if you expect the life of the fan to be ONLY 18 to 24 months which is the average time that the factory oil lasts.the oil dries up the longer the fan runs and the shaft makes the bronze bushing begin to heat up due to increased friction and eventually wear the round bronze bushinhg egg shaped. Try giving your bearings a good healthy squirt of sae 30 wieght oil from a zoom spout-- [pull out straw squeeze bottle refillable oiler.]I recommend oiling both the front and real fan motor bearings once a month. This is the most common cause of fan failure.Because I oil my fans bearings once a month,I still have fans that run from 1940,1950,1960 and 1970. The 1940 GE fan lasted 70 years and is still running strong.Some newer fans have chinese ball bearings , but the ball bearings also die prematurely from lack of needed oil.Sometimes, you can pry off the bearing race cover to get oil into the bearing.a good trick here is to use wd40 if you think you cant get sae 30 into the bearing.wd40 is a n extreemly light wieght oil that penetrates very welland gets into places where you think it wont get into .You can totally wet up a fan motor with eithersae 30 or wd 40 or both without worrying about the electricmotor being harmed by the oil. the oil,sae 30 or wd 40 wont hurt the motor. On badly rusted and nearly siezed fan motor bushings , or any electric motor as well, I use first wd40 for penetration and then sae 30 for good long duty lubricatin.You may have to keep squirting ioil in the motor for 1/2 hour and end up with a puddle of oil under the fan motor, but about 40 % of the time ,you can bring back to life what yo thought was a dead motor. Perserverance is required and faith that you can fix the motor. 40 % of the time you get sucess to one degree or another and 60 % of the time ,its kaput for good.I got all those fans i mentioned before because other people thought the bearing were seized and shot, and put the fans in the garbage pail where I rescued the fans from. the bearings were almost siezed but far from shot becaue i got oil in to the shafts and bearings and another 12 to 20 years of life from the fans. However,i do oil them monthly in fan season, which is winter time for me, since I use fans to blow the hot air off my wood stove,

HERE IS THE ONE http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111089460837

A three way switch has 3 terminals, these for floor fans operate by a rotary switch but can be adapted to use any 120V Rotary toggle or rocker type switch. technically your compartment (or room provided will determine which to use). I'd suggest you replace it with one like the one that no longer works. The one good thing about fans the direction they rotate in is already determined, and with a/c current it will work even if you connect it up wrong! If it work's then fine don't over think it

MILKHOUSE HEATER "CAUTION LIGHT" SOLUTION: Before I explain, let me clear this myth up: this is NOT an issue with the pendulum safety switch (some mistake that for a "mercury" switch). To begin, unplug the heater. Open it up and clean it out. I mean, buy a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and squirt all of the contacts good. Below the fan there is a sensor mounted on the heater element box on the bottom. That goes bad and causes it to trip. While you are there, squirt the motor bushings good with the brake cleaner and dab a drop of synthetic motor oil (just a drop) on EACH of the two motor bushings. Personally, I rewired this and bypassed all of the safety features. You can bypass that sensor without soldering or cutting any wires. All you have to do is unscrew the wires from the holder and then unscrew the tiny nuts and tiny bolts. Then bolt the together at one end (note the position) and put it back in the holder and tighten the screw to hold it in. This method fixes the issue completely as it removes the sensor from the equation. In fact, I just did that on my third milkhouse heater and it has been running solid for the last 15 minutes. Use your modified heater with caution! Let the brake cleaner dry before you energize this device!

MILKHOUSE HEATER "CAUTION LIGHT" SOLUTION: Before I explain, let me clear this myth up: this is NOT an issue with the pendulum safety switch (some mistake that for a "mercury" switch). To begin, unplug the heater. Open it up and clean it out. I mean, buy a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and squirt all of the contacts good. Below the fan there is a sensor mounted on the heater element box on the bottom. That goes bad and causes it to trip. While you are there, squirt the motor bushings good with the brake cleaner and dab a drop of synthetic motor oil (just a drop) on EACH of the two motor bushings. Personally, I rewired this and bypassed all of the safety features. You can bypass that sensor without soldering or cutting any wires. All you have to do is unscrew the wires from the holder and then unscrew the tiny nuts and tiny bolts. Then bolt the together at one end (note the position) and put it back in the holder and tighten the screw to hold it in. This method fixes the issue completely as it removes the sensor from the equation. In fact, I just did that on my third milkhouse heater and it has been running solid for the last 15 minutes. Use your modified heater with caution! Let the brake cleaner dry before you energize this device!

Do you know where I can get a replacement knob that goes on the back for low, medium and high setting? It came off when I was moving and is difficult to turn without it (i use a screwdriver at the moment).

How do oil the fan?

put the 2 white wires together then try one of the other wires from the fan to the black power wire,if to slow try the other wire if that speed works tape off the other wire . it should be white to white and red to black green is ground