Nikon CoolScan - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 8

Here's a link to download the drivers for the Coolscan 4000:

http://www.findmysoft.com/drivers/download-Nikon-Super-Coolscan-4000-ED-1-10--driver.html

I read and would like to thank, the person who mentioned this as a solution. It was stated that if you have more than one firewire on your computer, when you open the Nikon, both signals, or whatever happens in computerland, don't connect. Upon removing the drive in the other firewire, Nikon clicks in everytime. Answer: have only ONE active firewire at a time. You may need to unplug the cable to the scanner and reconnect. But that's it. I've not had any problems since

Try the following site:
http://support.nikontech.com/cgi-bin/nikonusa.cfg/php/enduser/std_alp.php?p_sid=eyilbI*i&p_lva=&p_li=&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_page=1&p_cv=1.185&p_pv=1.25&p_prods=25&p_cats=185&p_hidden_prods=&prod_lvl1=25&prod_lvl2=0&cat_lvl1=185&p_search_text=&srch_btn_submit=%C2%A0%C2%A0%C2%A0Search%C2%A0%C2%A0%C2%A0&p_new_search=1&p_search_type=answers.search_nl
It is a part of Nikon's official site. You can start from Nikon.com.

Try scanning these strips with the FH-3 accessory. It may be the negatives aren't being sensed correctly at the frame boundary. This unit overcomes this problem and can often be found at a reasonable price on eBay.
Jeff Underwood 1Scan.co.uk

Does it use to work with Vista?

connect after PC start up

I had the same problem with my Coolscan IV. The problem ended up being the scanner, which had several broken pieces in it when it arrived. Since the Nikon repair facility in Las Angles wanted $200 plus parts to look at it and repair it, I subsequently purchased a Coolscan V and went to the Nikon site and downloaded their latest drivers (ns403en_vista.exe) - which worked (works) fine and does a beautiful job. If you follow this route, make sure that you download the correct version, i.e., the Vista version. I have been able to make the scanner work well using both the XP and the Vista Nikon drivers, since I have both an older XP desktop and a new Vista Laptop. Good Luck.

Version:1.0 StartHTML:0000000105 EndHTML:0000008195 StartFragment:0000002796 EndFragment:0000008159 Normal 0 0 1 464 2648 22 5 3251 11.0 0 21 0 0 I brought a coolscan 9000 the last month without the film holders, software etc just the scanner. A friend of mine sold me it for a good price. I run Leopard in a Powerbook G4 15” 1.2 ghz 2 Gigas ram. I installed the Nikon scan 4 and when I open it the scanner report an error: The Scanner has reported a hardware error... every time that I run the program this message appears. I thought that this was because I hadn’t got the film holders. When the film holders arrive from USA the same problem appears : The Scanner has reported a hardware error... Them I tried Silverfast Software. In this case the scanner report another error: there are not film holder ( or something like that). I uninstalled Nikon Software with the same utility to install it. Reinstall the Software and the same ****** problem. When I switch on the scanner a loud noise came from inside, after this the blinking light stopped and nothing happen ( no calibration, no light inside, nothing). Just one thing. The Scanner has reported a hardware error...
I checked on internet and the solution of switch it of and on doesn’t work. CALL TO THE NIKON SERVICE that’s was my only solution.
Of course I didn’t . The price of the scanner was 300 Pounds.
SO I OPENED IT.
I REMOVED THE SCREWS FROM THE BACKSIDE AND FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE SCANNER. I TOOK THE METALLIC CASE OF: PICTURE 1. After a while looking everything without touch I’m start to check for the connection cables one by one, WHEN DISCOVER THAT ONE CABLE PLUG THAT GOES FROM THE SCANNER TO THE FIREWARE BOARD WAS DESCONECTED…. PICTURE 2 Maybe on the shipping this plug looses his place. SO I SWITCH ON THE SCANNER AND THE PROBLEM DOESN’T APPEAR. Now the problem was that the film holder wasn’t recognising from the scanner. So I followed the steps that most frequently indicate on the web:

1-Close the scan program –
2-Turn off and unplug the scanner
3-Plug the LS9000 back in and turn it on
4-Reopen the scan program

The scanner worked. When I switch on the scanner take a minute or so to calibrate and determinate the film holder. Them I open the Nikon Scan 4 and every looked nice. I could scan my first negative ALELUYAAAAA. So I close everything without the screws so I put the scanner vertical to put back the metal case ones I finished I turned on the scanner and the Nikon program. For my surprise the same ******* error I couldn’t believe it.

I opened it again and I found the cause of the problem . BECAUSE THE SCANNER WAS ON VERTICAL BEFORE, THE METALLIC GUIDE THAT CONNECT WITH THE SERVO WAS MOVED (Move the scanner from one place to another may cause this issue) So with my finger I putted it in the same place. THE SCANNER WORK’S.
After this the only problem was a big loud gnashing and grinding noise that I sorted with CELOTAPE BETWEEN THE TWO PIECES THAT WAS SEPARATED BEFORE.
PICTURE 3
Now the scanner work fine. Sorry for my **** English and I hope that someone can find useful this information.

The gear train is probably jammed or stripped. You would be best off to send it out rather than mess with it.

You could take it apart, but there will not be much you can do yourself with it. If you mess it up even more, you will increase the repair cost.

When you send the unit out, tell them to send you back the negatives ASAP, and you are willing to pay the postage.

As they say "stuff" happens. This is all part of doing business...

Jerry G.

Is this what you're looking for?

by shutterup

I solved my problem.
It's pretty personal, but I hope it can help others.
First: I might have created the problem myself because I slightly adapted the slide-mount.
Why?: Some time ago I had some unwilling films the automatic! film-mount wouldn't swallow, so I had to use the manually operated slide mount.
I adapted a slide housing a bit, so it could take and transport film.
To be short: In the end, there was transparent, (but also reflective) material inside the Coolscan V housing, close to the slide.
I removed it.

Second, I turned the scanner 45 degrees, and gave it a calculated whack on the side. (like you did with your tele in the 6ties, but a bit more carefull )

Don't know which one did the trick, or both. I can send a sample.

Not to sound rude, but are you inserting it with the arrows pointing into the scanner?  That is the first step. Afterwards makesure you have the scanner on and the green light is not blinking.

Your killing yourself how big are you going to print this!!! Are you using Vuescan or silverfast for scanning or Nikons util? Stay away from Nikons utility! 2x sample is plenty and turn off ICE for monochrome (it makes a mess of things) but 16 bit yes until you print then go down to 8 after you resize for final print.
Morphoto.ca

I had the same problem. Go to nikon install the latest nikon scan and the security update for gdiplus.dll. It worked for me.

Just curious... did you unplug the unit for a period of time, or did you only power it off? I would definitely unplug it for about ten minutes, then plug it back in.

when you setup your account on xbox live it will ask you to reedem your 1 month free membership it dosent actually come in the box

You might try resetting the "settings" to factory defaults and then scanning again. I have seen strange tints if the settings get set incorrectly, not sure exactly what is wrong. However, using factory defaults corrects the problem, then change settings one at a time.

I'm sure all is well but if you have not tried VUescan or Silverfast as opposed to Nikons Util you should.

I got the same problem. And, I followed the suggestion and reinstalled Nikon Scan to no avail. Then I noticed a small bright spot in the scan screen and I realized that I had accidentally "clicked" that screen with Selection Cursor. So, I used the Selection Cursor again, but this time I enlarged it to include the entire scan window. The problem is solved!
JackShoot

Yes, if its 100-240 volts and 50-60Hz then it will work in the US. You will need a plug adapter though so it will fit a wall jack. If its for long term use, you might want to consider getting the power cord replaced.