Leviton Electrical Supplies - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Here's the wiring instructions: http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibcGetAttachment.jsp?cItemId=nNBKTVaZ2nU2mhkps672vw&label=IBE&appName=IBE&LEVCOMP_pses=ZGFA29E0DBC9686AA1D14C9C2AA2763721F62C7F83E969AD4822D897CE157A46A78B7EB01F8BC392D4241779B1759B01270DF9EBAAD8B4427C&minisite=10251

It doesn't matter how the receptacles are wired it is AC, The switch should just be in the line between the source and the outlet and when turned off open the circuit. Use a voltage tester to see if power is coming into the switch. If power is coming in and not going out then you have a faulty switch.Recheck the wires going to the receptials and make sure one has not come loose.

Sometimes they just need to be reset 1 turn off power to switch (Circuit Breaker off) 2 wait 30 seconds 3 re - turn on power to switch again (Circuit Breaker on) 4 wait for lights to turn on by themselves ( about 15 seconds after power is turned back on) should be OK after this remember to not enter the beam after power is turned on ...... (see #4 above) as this would make switch beam super sensitive. Hope this helps

faulty switch ? faulty breaker ? loose connection ? get an electrician to test the circuit.

A 3-way light switch needs 3 wires for both switches to work correctly. If there is only 2 wires on the switch, its not a 3-way. Only two black wires on the switch means it can be wired either way. The power and light leads are inter changeable. If you really need a 3-way switch, be sure it is labeled as that on the box and look for 3 connections on the switch its self. Else, try a switch rated for a higher amperage.

If the picture is accurate, I have had the same misfortune with this model. Two wires the same color means its not pole sensitive and can be wired either way. Replace it with a more expensive switch and you should be OK.

Hello GWarren,

If you already have the supply current coming into the present box, then you will first, make sure the power is turned "OFF" at the breaker panel before doing any work on this circuit.

Once the power is off, you would then run the supply, (incoming power line) to the bottom screws of the receptacle (outlet). the Black (Hot or Common) wire goes to the brass colored screw, while the White (Neutral) wire, goes onto the silver colored screw. Hook up the bare copper (Ground) wire to the Green grounding screw on the outle.

Now, you have power going to the outlet. For the light switch, it (I'm assuming) will control a light, either on the ceiling or wall mounted ones, etc. In order to do that, you would run another wire, typically #14/2 Awg with a ground, from the switch/outlet box to the bow where the light to be controlled by the switch, is located.

You will need to then connect a short piece of Black wire, about 8" long, from the outlet's brass colored screw (use the one without another wire connected to it, or double up with an existing wire, making sure they are both snug and secure). This should go to the BOTTOM of the light switch with the switch (look for "OFF" on the toggle, or see the metal strap for the proper orientation of the switch for determining which end is up!)

Now, the wires that go to the switched light: Take the white wire FROM the light and connect it to the white screw on the outlet. Now take the Black wire from the light location and connect it to the TOP of the light switch. Take the ground wire from the light location and connect it to the light switch AND over to the outlet ground. (If this is in a Metal box, you also have to attach the Ground wire to the metal box using a Green colored grounding screw, per Code requirements). As a Licensed Master Electrician, you should verify that your application meets the local requirements and codes, based on your location, as each part of the country has some special quirks to installations, based on their experiences. For instance, in Chicago, IL, you have to wrap electrical tape around all the device (outlets & switches, etc.) before they can be approved for installing into electrical boxes.

Please remember, there are several ways to accomplish the type of wiring you are looking to accomplish, and getting it done really depends on where your supply electricity is presently located (at the outlet/switch box or at the llight fixture, etc).

I would strongly suggest that you visit your local library and check out a Bacis Wiring Book, (or you can buy one at Home Depot or Lowes) so you better understand how to best wire your devices so they are done correctly, and most importantly, safely! If in doubt, ask a follow up quesions

You now have a constantly "live" outlet and have taken off power to control the switch that will operate your light fixture or device.

Here's some wiring drawings that might help you with your situation, as it covers 4 variations.

http://www.indepthinfo.com/wire-switch/

Again, if you have any doubts, please comment back and if possible, provide some photos of the electrical boxes you have and I'll try to help you figure it out!

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

duplicate

If you wish to replace the 3 way switch with a dimmer you have to buy a special 3 way dimmer. 3 way switches are for the top and bottom of a staircase or two ends of a hallway to have 2 switches control one light or lights, so if you buy a dimmer for one end it would be good to buy one for the other. I almost understand visually where all those wires go in your description but a photograph would have been better. A better description of which switch you wanted to replace as well.

The module if failed is either open circuit or short circuit. Being that it is a semiconductor you can test each leg for one or the other. If you had the numbers written on the component we could have checked a cross reference book for the type of semiconductor. It may be a mosfet (metal oxide semi-conductor field effect transistor). How to test a mosfet youtube video The rest of your dimmer is a variable resister or potentiometer or rheostat. You can test that for a failure with a multimeter in the ohms setting, though it is less likely to fail that the mosfet.

Hello, I need a little more info,- is it for new installation or to replace existing one? In generall combo switch/outlet comes with its propper colored screws which indicates the position of the wiring, white screw is for neutral (white), single bronce screw is for light (wire that returns from fixture) double bronce screw which is united by small metal for hot wire(black), I hope it works!