20 Most Recent Leviton COMBINATION SINGLE POLE TOGGLE SWITCH Questions & Answers

I think you have your wires connected to wrong screw.

Wiring devices have screws that are color-coded as you noticed.
The Hot wire from breaker connects to dark colored screw(s).
The wires to Load (ceiling light-outdoor light) connect to brass screws.

If you need more help, add a comment at bottom and I will help further

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-combination-switch-outlet.html Gene If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Easy way.. TURN OF POWER. pull the switch with the wires still attached from the electrical box. Take off one wire at a time from the old switch and place it on the new one.

11-8-12Clarify: One switch controls 2 outdoor lights.One turns on-off with switch.Other stays ON all the time.If this is not what you mean, then add a comment.Might have a nail in a wire.http://waterheatertimer.org/images/nail-in-wire-500.jpghttp://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.htmlThis is absolute fire hazard.Notify contractor, call electrician.We used to do siding, and put nails in water pipes and AC tubes.Problem would probably be located near light that stays ON. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Pilot light switch is usually rated 15 amp.
Check amp rating of device.
Check volt and watt rating on nameplate of water heater.
4500watt element divided by 240volts = 18.75amps
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html

If you have 120Volt under-counter water heater, then add a comment.

I recommend using contactor to control water heater when using a switch rated for less than 30amp.
Contactor controls water heater. Switch controls contactor.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Ordinary.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/H230A.html

usually you use the black lead for live

easy one first: ground wire to green screw. We have to assume the two black wires are the hot(coming from power source) and switch leg(going to light). Switch will have two brass colored screws. Looking at the switch with the off/on markings right side up. Put hot wire on upper screw and switch leg on other brass screw, With nothing hooked up, the hot wire will be the only wire with voltage on it. You can buy a non-contact voltage tester at Lowes or any place that sells electrical supplies. Now we must assume the two white wires are neutrals(one coming from power source and one going to light. The pilot light part of the switch will either have a silver colored screw or a white pigtail on it. all whites hook together. The pilot light is wired internally to the switch leg. Your switch should work properly now.

To run an outlet you need a neutral, which is not present. I would advise contacting an electrician.

Hook one of the wires that was connected to the black wire to the silver screw, one to the brass screw. Does not matter which. If there is no ground (bare or green) then you can hook one from the green screw on the switch to the box where the other grounds are connected.

Unless I misunderstand you, you just need to get a single switch, and a duplex outlet with a matching plate. Your hardest part will be to decide the color of the devices and plate (rectangular, double-D holes, etc. I'd suggest, that for "preserving domestic tranquility" you hire you mate (if any) as consultant on these matters.
(Wire it as it is now; that is if the switch controls the outlet the wiring should still be easy to follow.
DO turn off the power first!)

You are replacing old switch-receptacle device.
New device also has switch and receptacle.
You want switch to control light, but not receptacle.
You want receptacle 'hot' all the time.

You have 2 cables that enter box.
Each cable has white, black and ground wires.
Ground wires are twisted together and attached to green ground screws and not discussed more.

Screws on new device:
Side 1 of device: New device has dark screw(s) or brass screws on one side ... these screws are connected together by brass plate. This side is the Hot side of device.

Side 2 of device: Other side has 2 separate and unconnected screws. These screws are not connected in any way. Each of the 2 disconnected screws sits opposite the switch and opposite the plug.

Cables.
One cable comes from breaker box. This cable has a Hot and Neutral wire. The Hot is black. Neutral is white.
The other cable goes to Load (light). Black supplies power to Load (light), and white connects to Neutral.
If you are uncertain which is which, testing is shown below.

Connect the device:
Side 1 of device: Black Hot goes to dark colored screw(s) that are connected by brass plate. (This is only wire connected to this side of device)
Side 2 of device: Black that goes to Load (light) connects to screw that sits opposite the switch.
Side 2 of device: White Neutral connects to screw that sits opposite the plug

One wire is left .. the white from light. This white wire connects to white Neutral wire. Since white neutral is already connected to device, look on back of device to see if there is a quick-connect hole for you to shove wire into back of device. If device doesn't have quick-connect, then twist white wires together, and add a short jumper wire to device, and then all the whites are connected to neutral. Circuit is complete.

How to test for Hot and Neutral
Separate wires.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground.
Tester lights up on hot wire.
Now test hot wire to other wires.
Tester lights up on neutral

You need to make sure the wire connector has a listing AL/CU on it. These have been evaluated for a mixture of copper and aluminum combinations. BTW the switch conductor is most likely tinned copper, this slowed down the oxidation process.

The green (ground) wire should go to the green screw on the switch. And that's assuming that it IS the ground wire. If you don't have a ground (green or bare) wire in your electrical box, then don't worry about it. Just cap it off. If you want to get further into grounding, etc., then contact me back. Otherwise, just hook up the two wires to your switch - and leave the rest. Good Luck! Jim 

If the problem arose after you replaced the switch in your boys room, that is where I would go to first in my attempt to troubleshoot the problem. After you pull the switch out, I would leave the switch in the off position, and check that 2 of the three wires in that box are receiving power.
If there is only a single with power then that is the power coming into the switch box, and it is very likely that one of the other wires is intended to feed beyond. A good way to check this would be to turn the switch on and see if your daughter's switch is getting power when that switch is on. If this is the case, the next part becomes a little tricky.
1. turn the switch in your boys room off
2. disconnect only one wire from the 2 that do not have constant power.
3. turn on switch, if light for the room turns on, then attached wire is switch leg for the light, and disconnected wire is power out of rest of the circuit.
CAUTION: turn off power at breaker before continuing
4. once you know which is the switch leg, and which is the out for the rest of the circuit, junction the in wire with the out wire, and attach a single wire to this junction twisting all three together, put a wirenut on the junction, and re-attach to switch.
once this is done, you should be able to turn the breaker back on.

If the above instructions are not needed, it is possible that the switch is fed from a plug in the room, and that a connection on the plug could have gone bad. In this case, you should once again, turn the breaker for the room off first.
1. pull out the plug
2. ensure that all wires are wrapped around the screws, not pushed into the holes in the back of the device. Black to brass, White to silver, Ground to green
3. put the outlet back and turn the breaker back on
4. test the switch

I hope that this proves helpfull and resolves your problem. please let me know if you have any questions

If the product is as pictured, (two single pole switches in the space of a single switch), then it probably has 4 terminal screws (in addition to the ground). Look closely at the terminals on one side of the switch. If two terminal screws are brass colored and two are silver colored, look on the brass colored side. There is probably a strip of metal that connects the two terminals together - this is what is keeping your light "on". You need to move one of these wires to the other side of the switch. I assume the other switch operates OK and you only have 3 wires (besides the ground). On the other hand, if you have a total of 4 wires, then one of the wires is probably for powering something else (an outlet, or even another switch that is not supposed to be controlled by this switch). You will probably find that other device is currently being controlled by this switch. You will have to swap two wires, but without more info I can't tell you which ones.
If you found this helpful, please vote.

You have the hot wire on the wrong side of the switch. The side of the switch with the fin is where you put the hot wire. On the other side of the switch where there is no fin is where you put the other two wires one on each screw. When you have it wired that wat your switch will work like the old one. Also if you would like the lights to come on with the top part of switch. But works with the bottom switch you just need to switch the two wires from top to bottom.

ok, i think what you mean is a 3-way switch- meaning two different switches that control one light and a single (pole) switch that only controls one light. you can't do that with the above switch. You need a combination 3-way and single pole switch.

Hello. I can help you. Assuming that all three switches used to work and now you have this problem, you have a switch that is worn out or has a wire that has come loose.
Turn off the power to this fan and open up one switch at a time. look for a disconnected wire, or a loose wire. If the wires were pushed into the clip on the switch check carefully as these little clips often fail after a while.
I seriously think you will find a loose wire and that will solve your problem, once you reconnect it.
If that is not the case, you will have to replace one switch at a time until you have replaced the bad one.
I recommend that you make a diagram of each switch once you have it out in the open noting which color of wire goes to each screw or spot. You will always have one screw on a switch which is a slightly different color from the rest. Always note which color wire goes to the odd color screw and make sure you always hook that wire to the odd color screw in the new switch.

you may already found the answer to you question.
but anyway, here it is.
split the black wire (hot), one to the light (not the light switch), one to the outlet (copper screw).connect a white wire from the outlet (alium screw) to the copper screw on the switch.
connect a white wire from the alium screw tothe white wire on the light.

You parallel the contacts then either one or both will turn it on. Both have to be off for the fan to stop.