Hyundai ImageQuest - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Do a factory reset and see if that works.By the way Irish is english

I have always had good luck with DVI to HDMI converters. My advice would be to find another monitor and see if it works on that. If it does, then you know the signal is getting through. It might be a setting on the PS3 as well. I'm only familiar with PC to monitor conversion.

Without knowing what your model number is for your monitor there's no way to tell what your resolution capabilities are. But most likely you are onto the solution which would be your manager resolution is set to the wrong setting. You will need to adjust that if it is possible otherwise you'll need to get a new monitor if you want to see the correct view.

go to the manufacturer web page for the speakers and download the driver go to control panel , audio /speakers and click on properties and check for compatibility

ghosting is a memory problem, the monitor has a memory chip this helps with the video rendering to display the image, the chip can over time become damaged like any other memory chip, its its read use delete type but some times it can take longer to delete this then gives you the ghost shadow. it can sometimes be the software glitching, but there is no way to fix the firm wear on the monitor as the chip is pre programed before the monitor is assembled.

Yopu can adjust the brightness of the monitor from the avaialbe panel buttons Alternatively you can do so from the Operating Sytem brightness control which depends on the platform you are using. If its windows you can navigate to control panel and the power settings and adjust the brightness by sliding the slide bar as desired.

Plug the headphones/speakers into the computer. Go into Control Panel -> Sounds and Audio Devices -> Audio Tab -> Sound playback -> Select your headphones from the drop-down list. Voila headphones/speakers that work.

You need new LCD panel, not worth it.
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/LCD%20panel/

Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide: http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals Failed TV and Monitors pictures: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/

Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you. Or www.digikey.com just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current, long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.

I would first try booting from a boot disk or live cd to make sure it isn't a driver issue. If the problem persists, you may be looking at a damaged monitor. Take a flashlight, and gently hold it to the screen to see if the LCD portion is working. If the LCD is working, but the lamps are not then read on. The most common reasons for a monitor to fail like that are damaged caps, burned transformer, and/or burned bulbs. The control circuitry sends a burst of energy to the bulbs to light them, then backs off to user settings. Most monitors will sense if the bulbs didn't light, and try a couple more times before giving up. I'm in the process of working on one now that exhibits the same symptoms and after opening the thing up it needs three caps, a transformer, and a new set of bulbs. Best of luck.

If you restart in safe mode, you need to go to the display settings, and choose a resolution that will work. When you restart back into normal mode, this setting should be retained, and you will be back to normal.

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom (look for discoloration of the circuit board around the base of the capacitor) need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the unit will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and/or inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are SURE it's only doing supply output ripple filtering,
and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

Backlight related video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XoF6QZ1dmw&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors, amplifiers, computer power supplies and motherboards, and other electronic equipment.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
A great parts source is Digi-Key, and you can order the parts online at www.digikey.com
They typically cost under a dollar a piece plus a flat shipping rate.
The parts usually arrive one business day later.
If you watch the third video, you will see that even someone with no soldering experience can perform these repairs as demonstrated by the woman in the video.

Assume you tested this on another computer to see if there was a problem with the graphics input, check the vga cable and ensure it is secure at the graphics card end and the monitor connector. Check the sockets of both these to make sure there is no damage.

Once you eliminate the obvious possibilities, you are left with the fault being at the monitor end. Typically this could be one of the board power capacitors that is not allowing the charge to power up the screen. The amber light indicates that power is reaching the monitor but the charge necessary to light the screen is not getting through.

Refer this to a competent TV repairman for checking and repair (if economical)

I would suggest that it is more likely to be the fault of a blown power board capacitor. This can be fixed, but will require a competent technician. If you DO decide to investigate, please leave it unplugged for at least 24 hours before dismantling it to check, as the capacitors need to drain. Touching a charged capacitor is not a pleasurable experience.. as I found out.. the hard way.

ADP-1204-5525
Hyundai B70a works on a 12volt 4amps ac adapter with 5.5*2.5mm dc connector, check this link:
http://www.chargerbuy.com/replacement-linearity-p-n-lad6019ab4-48watt-lcd-monitor-ac-adapter-12v-4a.html

You don't really update the drivers for your monitor. If you want to update your video drivers. I'm guessing because it's a Compaq Presario PC that it uses Integrated Radeon graphics acceleration so to update those drivers go here. Once there you will need to select Integrated Motherboard Graphics in the first block. From there on I will need to know the exact model number of the Compaq PC to proceed.

I believe that this site (fixya.com) is just a help site. I have found that in the past ten years, every TV set and computer as wll as several other devices have used the same type of power cords. If you have an older computer around, then the cord will fit most TV sets. You could drop by a computer fixet it store and they will either give you or sell cheap, (<5bucks) an old power cord. You could also look at the electronic store and find a usable cord that you can subs5titute.

The mistake most often made with this kind of problem is that people don't remember to plug in the sound cable from their computer to the monitor. You need a separate sound cable to carry the sound.

If it is hooked up, you can use the monitor's menu to check for proper setup.

Sounds like you have some bad electrolytic capacitors.
If you are tech savvy, open up the unit and look for capacitors that have bulging tops or leaking electrolyte / bulging at the bottom and replace any/all that look like this.
In most cases, this will fix you right up quick.
It's the right age for this to be the most likely issue.
The capacitors will be near the power input and the inverter stages of the circuitry.

If the speakers are built in, check that the volume on the speakers via OSD is not turned all the way down or off. Many monitors that have speakers have an audio amplifier as the sound output from computers is very low and requires a powered speaker system in most cases. They are designed to operate head phones only now a days.

Jim