First, I'm not a Frigidaire representative.
*Check your warranty. You should call vendor for service.
* Note; Check as refrigerators usually have long warranty.
*** The following is for information only.**
* First check if the water faucet (valve) is turned on.
* first check if you have water from the water dispencer. No? then there is a clog. (note; older GE fridge) ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjShdHoiiJw
* He suggest checking filter then the water solenoid. (requires getting into the guts of box. (may void warranty.)
* Check if the filter is seated and locked. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9x4Q_k9czzU
* Change filter (if stuck); https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeWmjDO-kZI
* Water okay? Then check Ice maker; Perform "Harvest Test"; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQQHNHHM4QE
* Not "Harvesting"? (not running) ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQQHNHHM4QE
* Another "Replacement" of ice maker; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0kh3RVcNZo
* Good example of "freeze up"; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsV-Zno92Fk
*** For older models:
* I've had this problem a lot with my old fridge. Water line works but no ice.
* Check if the "Ice Full" leaver is in the down (no ice) position. Some ice makers will lock the leaver (a stiff wire) in the full position to manually shut off ice maker. Make sure it swings up and down when ice tray is empty.
* Sometimes when the tray is left full of ice for a week or more then the tube feeding water will freeze up. Defrosting the freezer on a regular basis will help. A quick fix is to pour warm water in the ice maker section (where the ice is formed). This will help melt the clogged pipe and also make some ice while your waiting. You may have to do this several times. But at least you have ice.
* This (freezing up) may also be caused by the freezer set too cold. The temperature dial should be in the middle. But turning it colder and colder over time will cause ice to build up and prevent foods from freezing properly (thus turning the dial down colder.) Once your maxed out on the dial. You will find the freezer gets warm and things get covered in frost crystals.
* Transfer food to another refrigerator and perform a complete defrost by leaving it unplugged and the door open (freezer section).
* Frequently check and dump water at bottom of fridge. Clean the dust on coils while down there.
* A fan blowing into the freezer section helps. (Do NOT use a heated fan as it will warp the plastic and over pressure the refrigerate.)
* Once defrosted (+4 hours). Power up the freezer and set the temperature dial to mid point and the freezer diverter to middle or normal setting. Don't put the food back in yet. Wait till the freezer gets down to normal freeze temp (about 0 to 10F)
* Move freezer back in place (if you moved it to access plug) then slowly put back the food. Try not to cram stuff in. Leave space for air to flow freely around items.
* Final, Call for service anyway and have them perform yearly service. Check your warranty.
Aloha, ukeboy57
Side-by-side refrigerators typically have a defrost system that automatically defrosts the freezer periodically. The freezer stops cooling to turn on the defrost heater, but should resume cooling after about an hour. If the timer fails, the freezer will never defrost and ice will continue to build up on the coils, stopping all air glow over the coils. This will prevent the freezer from cooling properly and it will give the impresdion that it's failing. Only the freezer cools, the air is circulated into the refrigerator and cools it (only less so) which gives thd appearance that it's working properly (except it's probably not cooling to the proper temperature of ~40° F.). The fix is to replace the defrost timer. If you can locate its location on your unit, it usually involves unscrewing and unplugging the old unit and installing the new one. You will need you brand and model number when you get a new one.
Damper between fridge and freezer may be open too much. If it’s manual, just adjust it. If it’s electronic, you made need to call for service. Also could be thermostat related.
Evaporator coils should have uniform frost pattern over whole coil. If there is a block of ice only at top, your unit most likely has a freon leak and is low on freon. If whole evaporator coil is a block of ice, then it’s a defrost problem.
The fan should run with the closed door switch. If you can get to it, does it freely spin? It was correctly reconnected when changed? You did check Voltage on motor? If it is there and motor doe not run, yes it would be bad. Diconected motor can be checked with Ohm meter setting, it should show a circuit.
Freezer /fridge leaking water/ice frozen in fridge and or freezer, or leaks on floor
Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out.
Fix any gaps in the door seal.Pack out the seal underneath the areas where the door seal has the gaps. This can be done with a small strip of weather stripping, as shown here, or a bit of tightly rolled up paper under the door seal. Alternatively, you can heat the door seal up with a hair dryer to fix the gaps. This softens the door seal and allows you to stretch it.
Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor.
However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Another trick one can use is to connect a copper tube wire with one end going into the drain hole then attach the other end to the heater wrap it around heater a few times. That will take care of the drain problem when it comes to ice build up but not food build up.
Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also.
Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
OTHER THINGS TO CHECK ARE THE DEFROST TERMINATOR AND THE HEATER ELEMENT FOR COBNTINUITY.
Refrigeration System Basics Chapter 1Unclogging Frost Free Refrigerator Condensate DrainHow to Unclog Refrigerator Drain Line
No household units use ammonia as a coolant. IF it did and it leaked, you would know it immediately. If the unit still works, there is no issue with the Freon that is in it. The odor could be a sealant that was used to make the interior of unit. You did not say how old it is. Freon can have an odor to it but the unit would stop working correctly pretty fast.
The EF error usually means that there is a problem with the evaporator fan circuit. This could be a wiring problem, an issue with the fan or with the circuit boards.
First, check if there has been ice build up blocking the fan. If ice built up, the fan motor may fail and need to be replaced. When ice builds up, you may also have a refrigerant leak. Any problem with the compressor/refrigerant has to be dealt with by a professional. Check for continuity in the wiring harness between the fan and the control board. The control board may need to be replaced if there is no problem with the fan or the wiring.
The parts for the FGUS2642LFO are available here: https://www.appliancepartspros.com/search.aspx?model=fgus2642lfo .
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells
If compressor is running continuously and not clicking on and off, and fans are running and freezer isn’t freezing, you most likely have a freon leak or a blockage in the system.
Defrost timer should be inside control box. Thermostat and heater are at evaporator coils which should be located behind back freezer wall inside feeezer.
