20 Most Recent Frigidaire Gallery Series GLHS269ZDB 36" 26.0 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator w/ 7 Button Dispense... Questions & Answers


No need to remove the door if you can remove the inner panel to have access to guts for measurement.

Frigidaire... | Answered on Sep 24, 2017


There is an opening next to the auger that dispenses the ice.  In there there is a lever that must move up and down. It actually seats the metal rod on the bottom of the ice maker and controls cube or crushed.  Make sure the lever is down (cube position) when you return the basket to the freezer. I had to hold it down while I slid the rod into the opening. Viola! Cubes again. http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/showthread.php?t=783
check it out!  Thanks to Jake!

Frigidaire... | Answered on Sep 17, 2017


in some states you can buy whats called a line piercing valve. you simply clamp it onto your water pipe and attach your smaller copper line to it. home depot has em and lowes too. the other way is to solder a connector under your sink which is actually the best way to do this as the other type can leak.

Frigidaire... | Answered on Sep 13, 2017


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Frigidaire... | Answered on Sep 02, 2017


Have you ever heard an alarm go off? Secondly, have you ever heard an alarm COME ON? Which was louder?

What you probably hear is a power failure alarm. Unplug it for a few minutes, then plug it back in and see if it clears itself.

Frigidaire... | Answered on Apr 24, 2017


remove racks,shut door select self clean on computer,push up or down arrows for clean time amount and it should lock door and begin cleaning....always select the minimum amt of clean time allowable,for this will minimize chances of damage to your oven,if not clean after use-wait 24 hrs before running self clean mode again

Frigidaire... | Answered on Jan 16, 2017


Hallo

I believe that it is your controller that is faulty.

Regards

Frigidaire... | Answered on Jun 26, 2016


Hallo

1:Check your door seals(damage door seals causes fridge to suck humidity into the fridge causing it to ice up to much and then the pan type humidifier at the back of the bottom of the fridge can evaporate the water fast enough causing an over flow).
2:If door seals aren't damage I would say at this moment its cold where you live and it would also cause high humidity and there for your thermostat should be set to min:2 and max:3 your choice and try to prevent opening the door to much or keeping it open for 2 long.
3:Ievel the fridge ensure that its level.
4:If the problem still occur let me know.

Regards

Frigidaire... | Answered on Jun 25, 2016


It(evaporator) may have been the reason for the original failure. If he did a poor job brazing the new compressor it could have caused the restriction. If he failed to replace the filter drier it could have clogged. If he did not vacuum the system from the high and low sides it could have caused a restriction.
He could open the system,replace the filter drier,blow nitrogen through the high and low sides to clear a restriction possibly without having to replace the evaporator. Then pull a thorough vacuum and recharge refrigerant with a weight scale.

Frigidaire... | Answered on May 08, 2016


The problem is fixed. I think the drinking cup jarred the push bar activator, causing it to be stuck in the on position. After pushing this activator, it cleared the problem. Thanks for your follow up.

Frigidaire... | Answered on May 02, 2016


ice makers are cheaper
get a technician in to diagnose the fault properly before making the decision as the repair could be simple and cheap.

Frigidaire... | Answered on Sep 13, 2015


FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.
Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ
REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"















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Frigidaire... | Answered on May 15, 2015


Not sure what went wrong here, but the email i got back says it is a fridge - as you can see i am talking about a stove. And no it hasnt been solved, but i am sure a repair man will be able to take care of it.

thanks anyway

Frigidaire... | Answered on May 13, 2015

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