BMW Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

Question edited to add maker. Question moved to model category. All your issues are electronic. The clicking and lights flashing and not starting makes me think it is the security system that is the problem. You need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to diagnose. You have many issues by the sound of it.

I had a jammed vauxhall ignition and used a mobile auto locksmith

BMW things why not ask maker for help DIRECTLY https://blog.uobdii.com/bmw-ista-d-ista-p-windows-7-8-10-download-how-to-install/

On the outside case of the transmission.

Could you possibly comment below with a photo of this light? I'm not sure if it is the boot lid light as that is usually the image of a small car with the boot lid open. Also the noise would keep going if the boot is open as that's it job. A Red light means it needs looking at as soon as you can as it is possibly something serious. Does it have any other marks, letters or symbols inside the shape? This can help identify it.

hyjacker and oP both./ no year told, wow. no country told in the USA we have EVAP 3, systems test s that even run as we sleep.! but does not repeat, key off. 1 time yes. key off. or delayed as the PCM waits for fuel to cool off. (tank pressure tests it does,by law here USA) if really curios find the source of the noise under hood, under dash, under at gas tank(evap parts) use long cardboard tub to an ear and find it. this is not hard to do. find the source first then ask why it makes noise. and get real answers, 3000 parts on car gee. or pull fuses when it makes noise. you didnt say aftermarket ALARMS with shake switch horror ! or other wild car hacks , remote starter man killler. key off , noise is very small list of things key off . we are deaf here so all I can say is learn to find noise even making home made tools or a $5 mech stethoscope. (I have and electronics one with 4 microphones your noise is easy find,car parked, be happy it does not happen only moving car, those can be dangerous to find, lacking my tools or ask tech to find the noise. what else is there?, nada got other hacks, like REMOTE START BOX> we can't guess why any car or machine makes noise!!! ever. only how to do the tests. what stops you, IDK.

won't crank. !

1. call AAA auto club and get a jump yet?
2. all fuses good.
3. does cranking work in PRNDL (NEUTRAL) auto tranny assumed
4. battery cables loose or rusty.
5. bad battery.
6. alternator dead makes battery now dead.?
7. starter relay bad.

there is no such thing ever, CKP it is hall sensor or mag sensor yes the HALL uses 5vdc from the same named pin Of the PCM but the PCM has regulator for that. (not a fuse ever 5V) the PCM has 12V fuses sure. as do every computer in the car. BCM and all. yes all cars and all electronics, or electrics, all have fuse. of one form or another, even like door windows have CB circuit breakers. cranks but will not start , has 50 causes./ SORRY ! a tech knows that and does check ALL FUSEs not just one ever. what if a fuse blew and the CAN_bus network when dead.? yes we check them all , for sure year 2000 up. for SURE> no start (CRANKS FAST)_ MACRO ANSWER.

1. BAD ENGINE, TOP CAUSE CAM BELT SLIP/SNAP
2. NO SPARK, (CMP/CKP, SPARK PARTS BAD OR ABOVE1
3. BAD FUELING , NONE, TOO LITTLE OR TOO MUCH.

#1 HAS THE MOST CAUSE,. LOOK INSIDE ANY ENGINE SEE ALL THOSE HEAD VALVE PARTS TO FAIL? LOTS. WE HAVE TESTS FOR EACH LINE ABOVE , NO EXECEPTIONS, USING TOOLS/METERS/SCOPSES/ AND SCAN TOOLS IF WISE AND ALL FUSE ARE GOOD WE SCAN THE PCM FIRST (OBD2 DLC PORT) AND FOR SURE CRANKED FOR 5 SECONDS TO SEE IT FAIL. WE HAVE NO X3 IN USA, SO CAN NOT WAX SMARTER AND I HATE GERMAN SCHEMATICS, (LOVE ALL OTHERS) THEY USE GERMAN ONLY CODES FOR PARTS. GEESH. NO ASE OR SAE NAMES, In their german world. we have X5 but online no schematics, gotta love BMW. (not me) if engine is good, tested (compression) we test spark next on all cylinders, if all are dead, sure CMP or cam belt. or CMP dead, (or) if spark is bad on JUST one cylinder a new COP coil.? boots bad? if spark is good.we try test fuel (spray can, to air cleaner port filter out) I spray 3 seconds, crank it and runs 3 seconds ,repeat 3 times; if engine sounds great smile and say fueling bad. check fuel pressure using gauge(shop) for spec pressure. check voltage 12vd to pump cranking. bingo do not trust key on pump tests, CRANK IT. (yes 2 persons)

no country told. cars not the same ww world wide yet. RTM the service manual tells what side it is on. and now to pull it. RHD and LHD cars not the same at all. https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

My hazard light won't turn off. It's not the switch. What could cause that?

Check the link, but you best bet is an auto electrician as your issues are electronic. https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+bmw+x5+3.0+purge+valve+troubleshooting ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Code : P1351 Make : BMW Description : P1351 BMW Misfire Cylinder 5 With Fuel Cut-Off Possible causes : - Faulty Spark Plug - Faulty Ignition Coil - Intake vacuum leak - Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor - Ignition Coil harness is open or shorted - Ignition Coil circuit poor electrical connection https://www.cardiag.me/en/obd2-en/p1351-bmw-2/ More here https://www.google.com/search?q=BMW+X5.+What+is+a+P1351 ..

I would suggest using a scope to watch the camshaft and crankshaft sensors while the fault is happening to see if either is cutting out. THe red/white wire should have a constant 12 volts, the brown wire should have a constant ground. Does it do it when it is cold? I had a Pt Cruiser in a shop with a similar problem once and found when i heated the ECM up with a heat gun, the car would die and not restart. When i sprayed it with freeze spray, the car would start and run fine- it was a bad ECM. But most of these things should set a code. You really need to pull up live data on a scan tool- look for regularities on the O2 sensors and Mass airflow sensors.

Torque for harmonic balance/ crankshaft pulley is 410nm

Well, that is a pretty broad question. In my experience, the highest failure item on that car as far as the cooling system goes is the surge tank.

Clean Throttle Body and MAF. If that doesn't work, you need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer.

Sticks shifts, that I love. for 50 year driving. and restoring cars. 22 years old and can be repaired not sure me if gear shift is direct to box or crazy cable drive.? sure cable snapped. if it is really in gear, the clutch blown up, disk now just rivets no friction face there. or PP pressure plate collapse. if the MC/slave fails the clutch locks up sold. yours is opposite ,it slips or shifter is bad (actual) seem this box has remove ( to rear far) shift linkage one must be sure this link works and not pull the box only too find out the link is dead, for simple reasons. bad link. it looks like and old vw bug shifter, (1968 mine) but in reverse. and vastly shorted link see this photo. arrow left pin broke or all parts on the right. bad, all these parts go to the internal shift rails and forks.

I'm going to say that is either caused by an out of balance tire or a warped brake rotor.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Did you disconnect the battery before this problem happened? Did you disconnect the battery when you replaced the fuel pump? Why did you replace the pump and relay? Did you reset the security system and engine immobilizer?