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On the L372 I have the dial above the needle set on 0 the middle dial on a straight stitch the dial on the top right on A and the one below it on 1. I'm trying to hem pants; the top stitch is looping on the bottom. Are these setting incorrect and if so what should they be on?
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The "dial" in the back is for decorative stitches which require a "programmer" to be inserted with the stitch formation you want to form. For a straight stitch no cam is required in the back of the machine. The three dials on the front:
Using the upper left dial select the straight stitch picture
Using the upper right, choose your stitch lenght
Using the lower, choose your needle position, left/center/right
Tension knob on any machine will be in the thread path and usually above the needle somewhere, while the stitch width and length knobs are usually on the right side of the machine. I cant identify your model but on any machine straight stitch is usually a length of 2.5 and width of 0, while a zigzag the width will be set somewhere between 2-4 depending on how wide you need it to be. There is usually a stitch selector of some sort too but many machines, providing the width is set to 0, you will get a straight stitch.
First, make sure you select the straight stitch setting on the round dial. It is the one that has the dashed lines, looking like the stitch itself. Then, you may also want to be sure that the stitch WIDTH (dial with the picture that looks like a straight line gradually turning into a zig-zag) to the lowest setting, which is generally 0. With some machines, even after selecting a straight stitch setting, moving the stitch width can change needle position. Sometimes it will initiate the zig zag, other times it will move needle position left to right. Does that fix it?
You have 3 knobs/dials on the machine, the top left dials the stitch, the top right sets the length and the bottom right set your width. set it 0 for straight.
The three front dials are as follows....left to right-Stitch width, type of stitch, and stitch length. The dial on the top adjust the top tension.
For straight stitch you want 0 stitch width, straight stitch, 3 for stitch length.
For zig zag you want turn your stitch width to how wide you want the zig zag, choose zig zag stitch, and choose how close you want the stitches to be on the stitch length dial. Practice on a piece of fabric. Usually for zig zag you will want to loosen your top tension a little bit.
Remove the top cover (grasp and lift straight up), spray with "Tri-Flow, liberally inside. Pay attention to the right 1/2 and behind the front dials.
In Front, each dial has a small square opening on the side, use the tube included with the "Tri-flow" to squirt lube inside them. DO NOT use WD-40.
Run the machine daily for 5-10 minutes (set the dial "C" [top front that goes up to 8] to 0 also set the dial on top of the case to 0. Move the Zig-Zag lever (upper right) from 0 to 4 and back again. Respray with Tri-flow. After a couple of days, if it is still stuck place a hair-dryer or light nearby to warm it up to skin temp.
Between the temp and the oil, it should begin working.
If it was sewing correctly BEFORE the needle break...why did the needle break in the first place?...and what fixes did you make?
If it sewed properly...what changed?
Cut your upper thread close to the spool...make sure the presser foot is raised and pull the cut off thread section through/out of the machine from the needle area (sewing direction...do not pull the thread backwards!)
Clean out the bobbin area...remove any traces of lint or pieces of thread...look for any broken off needle pieces... brush the bobbin area out....then add a drop of sewing machine oil (but only if your manual says to oil that area).
Remove the needle plate to expose the feed dogs...brush/clean out that area too and add a drop of sewing machine oil...then secure the needle plate back on.
Replace the needle...do it again...yup...some needles arrive bad from the factory. Make sure the needle is inserted and positioned properly. Then thread the machine WITH the presser foot in raised position. (The thread needs to get seated into the upper tensions.)
..with the.presser foot down...thread the new needle.
Oh...and use the correct needle for the thread. (a universal 80/12 is standard).
Thread can cause issues too. Try a different bobbin, or maybe a different spool of thread to see if that makes a difference.
with the Shark Euro-Pro X machine, you need to bring the stitch width to zero it's the nob on top of the machine the manual states not to use it wider then 3 with the double needle cause it can break the needle. but either stitch selection "A" or "S" will give straight stitching with width at zero.
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