How to replace sheath cord on eletroux - Vacuums

Purchase a new 3 conductor End - Note*** Connection procedure will be the same for either the Female or Male end...

• Carefully cut around the sheathing being mindful to not cut into the individual wires sheathing.
• Then peel away about 1.5", exposing 3 individual wires
• Now, strip back about .50" of sheathing from each wire
• Twist bare wires so individual strands are tight
• Separate the cord end (many different varieties) and insert wires into a hole, securing nut, etc, to bring into proximity of connection lugs.
  • Black wire onto 'Gold' screw
  • White wire onto 'Silver' screw
  • Green wire onto 'Green' screw
• Reattach in reverse order

Sounds like you have a worn latch, check for a replacement. One certain models you can move the connector closer to the hose opening. For the most part it needs replacement, there are few fixes for this problem

There are four points of connection to get power to the nozzle, any one of which can cause this condition, or an on/off condition. They are the connections in the neck of the machine itself where the hose is inserted in front. The second is underneath the hose handle, where it connects to the two pronged sheath cord. The third is at the lower end of the sheath cord where the power nozzle cord connects. The last is the reset itself. That's what I check first when one of them is brought into my shop, because, believe it or not, most people don't know that there's even a reset there. If the little red button is sticking up push it down firmly but not hard. It's possible to push the bottom right out of the reset unit itself. If the nozzle doesn't activate after pressing the reset, start by disconnecting the power cord that goes to the wands. Check for blackened, enlarged connection openings, or charged, blackened prongs. If no problems found there, continue on up the handle checking each connection point for these conditions. If you find the problem at any of the connection points both parts must be replaced, the male and the female ends. That usually means replacing the cords themselves, as the ends are not available separately. If the power nozzle still refuses to run you or a qualified repair person will need to open it up to check the motor itself to see if it's any good. Once the faulty part,(s) are found and replaced it should start right back up and run normally.

Remove the handle assembly by removing screws and sliding off. Remove nozzle housing cover and unscrew fastener at end of cable. Pull cable from handle end out of cable sheath. Slide new cable into sheath and fasten at bottom as it was before. You will need to adjust the cable to the proper location so the transmission works properly in both directions.

The most common cause of this problem would be breakage of the wires in the power cord at the point of entry to the vacuum cleaner body. With the power connected you may be able to prove this by flexing the cord at this point, particularly by pushing the cord toward the body of the vacuum cleaner. If you get any signs of life from the vacuum cleaner you can know that this is the issue (not a foolproof test, but one that can be performed safely, provided that there is no visible damage to the lead).

A qualified repairer will ensure that the vacuum cleaner is not plugged in to the power, open the vacuum cleaner casing, note the wiring connections, disconnect the wiring and and strip the external sheath of the cable back to a point beyond the breakage, cutting off the damaged section of wiring and reconnecting the wires.

See also: http://www.vision6.com.au/em/message/email/view.php?id=638671&u=19329

The most common cause of this problem would be breakage of the wires in the power cord at the point of entry to the vacuum cleaner body. With the power connected you may be able to prove this by flexing the cord at this point, particularly by pushing the cord toward the body of the vacuum cleaner. If you get any signs of life from the vacuum cleaner you can know that this is the issue (not a foolproof test, but one that can be performed safely, provided that there is no visible damage to the lead).

A qualified repairer will ensure that the vacuum cleaner is not plugged in to the power, open the vacuum cleaner casing, note the wiring connections, disconnect the wiring and and strip the external sheath of the cable back to a point beyond the breakage, cutting off the damaged section of wiring and reconnecting the wires.

See also: http://www.vision6.com.au/em/message/email/view.php?id=638671&u=19329

Depending on the age of your 2100, you will need to replace, the wand cord, the handle wiring and perhaps theh upper wand inner tube and handle as well.
If you examine your cord contacts they will be blackened from slippage, so will the female socket they plug into. On and aging 2100 the 1/2 inch groove at the front of the chrome handle tube begins to wear and the metal inner tube clip under the thumb button of the wand develops play back and forth. The wand comes apart into 4 pieces, plastic sheath, upper and lower tubes and cord assy.
If the hose handle groove is worn enough to allow in and out play, you will need to replace the handle, it's wiring, and at least the clip button on the upper wand as well as the wand cord.
You will find these wand parts at a pro vacuum shop but if your hose is original you will need to go to an AERUS Electrolux repair center for parts.
Post back with your results.

Mains flex, Twin Core, 6 Amp (0.75mm2).

Most electrical shops will sell it by the metre. They'll probably have it with a choice of grey/black/white/orange outer sheath. However, if your original cable was purple, and you really, really want it to remain purple, the only place I know to get this is from Dyson themselves.
Electrically, it doesnt matter what colour the outer sheath is !

Chances are that there is the tiniest fray of one of the wires touching somewhere. Since you have already made a good repair with nuts and tape, feel the length of the cord for other bite marks where a puncture might short the cords. If you find such a site, **** the sheath lengthwise, tape the wires and replace them in the sheath, then tape the sheath closed.
Regards, --W/D--

Greetings from GoVacuum.com,

I took a picture of the Sebo X4 wiring in the handle of the machine for you. This is a brand new machine taken out of the box, this is how the wiring should look. You'll see that there are 5 total wires here. You'll see the positive and negative from the cord at the top, and the wires that come up from the bottom of the handle are below plug. There is a blue, white, and black wire coming up from the bottom of the handle.

The blue and white should be on spade connector below the white cord lead, and on the right hand side the single black wire from the handle should be attached beneath the black cord lead.

If the machine is still working, then it must have been the Blue or ground wire that you removed, correrct? I'm not sure if this will hurt the machine, but the wire is definitely there for a reason, and if you still have it you may want to reconnect it.

If you'd like to contact Sebo directly and speak with a product specialist there, their phone number is;
800-334-6614.







Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com
[email protected]