20 Most Recent Numatic Henry Bagged Canister Vacuum Questions & Answers

Sounds more likely to be the switch than the motor, especially if it is the model with the top switch rather than the side "rocker" switch. If you are in the UK, speak to the technical people at www.a1cleaningsupplies.co.uk they can post a replacement. Otherwise outside or even within the UK you can contact the manufacturers technical people. Website is www.numatic.com

You will need to remove all the wires off it and off the hi/lo rocker switch. Then disconnect to two wires on the opposite side of the on/off to the power in side. The two white motor wires then get connected to this switch. The machine will now run on high speed only when turned on.

Chris, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you've already guessed it. You need a new machine. Personally, if I were you, I'd check into the small shop vac's, type of vacuum. Craftsman has a good one that I've been using for, wow, more years than I can remember now. I had it a long time I know that. I actually picked up a spare one at a garage sale last summer and put it up on a shelf for one my old one finally bites the bullet, but so far, it's still going strong. The wet/dry vac's have a float system in them that actually plug the bottom of the air chamber where the vac draws it's air from, when the water gets too high in the tank. The motor starts to race faster than normal and that's the tipoff that it's full. Dump out the tank and go at it again. Better luck this time.

wtf you dont the wires are hard wired to the motor

They suggest to store the unit at room temperature (68 F). The lowest in theory is above 32 degrees F. Anything below that will freeze and cause damage.

It can be disabled to stay in high mode, but you need to know what you are doing. It basically involves removing the small PCB and connecting the motor wires directly to the on/off switch. The hi/lo switch can be left in place (although not connected) or removed and a blanking plate put in it's place. You can leave a hole as this is a potential hazard and against government regulations.

If the machine is vibrating while on, then this would suggest that something has caused the motor to become out of balance. This could have been cause by some foreign object being allowed to go through the motor, dampness/moisture through the motor causing the bearing to collapse. Either way the motor will need to be replaced.

replace the unit

If it is a recent model 2007 onwards, it may not be too successful, but you could try if absolutely necessary. Although not normally required, earlier filters can be gently washed by hand in a soapy solution, thoroughly rinsed and left to dry naturally.

A 5amp fuse will struggle on start up on anything over 1000watts. Check the rating plate on the appliance for total load

You say that you have checked the belt, so I assume that you ensured that the belt is engaged properly and is not slipping. When you press the switch on and then off, do you hear the belt drive motor turning? If not, then you either have a defective drive motor or a defective switch. Testing the switch will give you the answer. To do that, first unplug the vacuum from the wall outlet and then gain access to the switch connections be removing any parts that prevent such access. Using an inexpensive digital multimeter set to read ohms, touch the two probes together and you will see the meter reads 000.0 and that is the same thing you should see if touching the probes to the switch connections with the switch in the "ON" position. In the "OFF" position, the meter should show something other than zeros, or show no reading at all. If your readings are as they should be, the switch is good and you then need to ensure that the wires connected between the switch and the belt drive motor are in fact connected securely and are not loose. If the connections are good then next you need to determine if you are actually getting power to the switch, and if you are then the belt drive motor is the suspect. If you don't know how to test for power at the switch using the meter or a test light then you should ask someone to assist you who does have that knowledge in order to avoid the possibility of electrical shock. If there is no power to the switch, there is obviously a bad connection between the switch and the power cord which feeds it, so you would need to trace those connections and determine the cause.

at the bottom

because its f^%$£d

you dont if you do youll blow up the motor as it will get 3000w and catch fire

Sounds like it could be a wire broken in the lead not making contact at times

Hi, Realistically this should only be done by someone who is capable of doing this kind of work. Electricity can be can kill if all procedures are not followed.