How connect 3 way dimmer.I can connet two 3 way dimmers

You posted under Leviton rotary dimmer.
Lutron and Leviton have many 3-way dimmer styles, and both make 3-way rotary dimmers.

I remember years ago replacing 3-way switches with dimmers and having same experience as you. One dimmer has to be ON for the other dimmer to dim.

Later I learned when you replace both 3-way switches with dimmers, you buy a control-and-companion dimmer set. One dimmer is main, and it lets you dim from both locations. The two dimmers communicate with each other electronically. Buy these dimmers at lighting store that specializes in fixtures and dimmers. Ask for most experienced salesperson.

I checked to see if rotary dimmers are made in the companion set. And neither Leviton or Lutron show 3-way companion set rotary dimmers.

1) Leviton spec sheet on rotary 3-way dimmers does not show companion dimmer. This indicates that Leviton rotary dimmers don't have capability of communicating with each other.

2) Lutron has image of 3-way rotary dimmers.
Image shows single rotary dimmer in 3-way & 4-way circuit.
This tells me that Lutron does not have companion dimmer for 3-way rotary dimmer.

The question is unclear.
Switches are single-pole or 3-way.
Single pole switches have 2 screws plus green ground screw.
3-way have 3 screws plus green ground screw.
I don't see Lutron rania dimmer
http://www.lutron.com/Products/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/Pages/DimmersSwitches.aspx

Identify your switch and your dimmer and add a comment.
I will look up the information.

You posted under Lutron 3-way dimmer.

You didn't say the number of screw terminals on device or color of those screws.
If your device has two brass screws, then it is single pole.
If your device has 2 brass screws and 1 dark screw, then device is 3-way
If you are replacing 3-way switch, identify wire on dark screw >> connect this wire to dark screw on dimmer. Other two wires connect to either brass screw.

If device has wires instead of screws, the color of those wires is an important clue.
Answer back with the colors of those wire and it is easier to help.

Different dimmers are suitable for different types of lighting.
In an effort to help you, I searched my files for Lutron dimmers.
Lutron has 17 dimmer types, with numerous models under each type
They don't show DL-3PS
http://www.lutron.com/Products/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/Pages/DimmersSwitches.aspx

Lutron has NT-3PS
http://www.lutron.com/Products/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/NovaTDimmer/Pages/ModelNumbers.aspx

The NT-3PS is a 3-way dimmer.
Here is wiring manual:
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/wallbox_wiring_6_7.pdf

If the help above does not get you going, answer back with more information and we can help.

Lutron Dimmer manuals
http://www.lutron.com/Service-Support/Technical/InstallationInstructions/Pages/InstallationInstructions.aspx?syst=Dimmers+%26+Switches&prodn=Maestro%C2%AE+dimmer+%26+switch

Lutron manuals show a couple things that might be affecting you lights.
1) Wattage: If you have wrong wattage dimmer
2) Type of light bulb: Dimmers work on different types of bulbs
3) Wiring: You say you got 3 wires going to the chandelier? Why you got 3 wires? Is this a 3 way switch? Are the chandelier bulbs wired separately so you can control groups of bulbs with different switches?
Does the dimmer have 3 screws? A dark-colored screw and 2 brass screws? If so, then that sounds like a 3-way dimmer. A 3-way, is where more than one switch controls the same light.

Does the dimmer have 2 screws? Then that dimmer controls a single circuit. Your black Hot wire from breaker box connects to one screw and the black wire to Load connects to other screw.
A quick glance at Lutron wiring manual shows that Hot and Load wires connect to either screw.
The question is your 3-wires from the chandelier ... does the black Hot wire from breaker arrive in the ceiling box first? Or does it arrive in the wall box first? If your Hot arrives in ceiling box, then the Hot must come down to the switch box and connect to a screw on the dimmer >>> a second wire connects to other screw on dimmer and travels up to the ceiling box where it connects to black wire on chandelier. The white wire on chandelier connects to white Neutral.
4) Dimmer might be bad

If I understand correctly, you have Leviton florescent dimmer

And you want to connect dimmer to Lutron ECO-series ballast

This is the ballast with 3 wires: Hot dimmed, Neutral and Hot


Is this your dimmer???? Has Black, White, Red, Yellow-red, & Orange




Here's how to do it:
Dimmer yellow-red is not used except for 3-way switch >> cap it off with wire nut
Dimmer orange wire connects to ballast Dimmed Hot
Dimmer red wire connects to ballast Hot
Dimmer white wire connects to ballast Neutral

Those are your wires going to ballast. As you can see, you need 3 wires going to florescent fixture

Next, let's focus on Dimmer:
Dimmer green wire goes to bare ground wire
Dimmer black wire connects to Hot from breaker box (we'll test for that next)
Finally the Dimmer white wire connects to ballast Neutral as discussed above BUT is also has to connect to Neutral from breaker box

This means the Dimmer white wire is connected to 2 wires >> one wire goes to florescent fixture and the other wire comes from breaker box


So which wires come from breaker box??
It should be a black and white wire.
Let's test to find Hot and Neutral that come from breaker box.

Mark your wires.
Disconnect all the wires and separate from each other
Turn on power
Use ordinary tester
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands stay away from electricity
Power is on
Test each wire to bare copper wire
When tester lights up, that is Hot from breaker box ... this wire connects to Dimmer black wire
Now, test the hot wire to each of the other wires
When tester lights up, that is Neutral wire ... this wire connects to Dimmer white wire, and also connects to Ballast neutral.

Connect one wire at a time, and it will work.

With just two wires other than the ground in the box, both of which were connected to a single pole switch, one must be the incomming power and the other is connected to the load. You can find out which is which either by opening up the fixture box where you will probably find that it is conneted with two white wires or by very carefully positioning the wires so they each are far from touching anything, turning the power on, and testing to see which is hot.
If the dimmer you have does not require you to know the difference between the hot and load wire, then just connect the white and black wires to the dimmer. As the previous poster said, the white wire should have black tape on it.

The dimmer connections should go like this.

Black from dimmer to black Constant Power In Wall
White from dimmer to Neutral (Whites) in wall
Yellow from dimmer to wire out to light (usually black)
Green from dimmer to BARE GROUND WIRE

you will want to make the following connections
existing-black wall to black dimmer now connects to red dimmer
existing black wall to red dimmer now connects to black dimmer
existing red wall to black dimmer now connects to red dimmer
Green wire connects to bare copper wires in wall

I think you are removing a 3-way dimmer. Is there another on-off switch that also turns the dimmed light on and off? You will need to replace it with another 3-way dimmer. Here is a link to an excellent how-to write-up.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2280970_wire-threeway-dimmer-switch.html

It could be a loose connection, and it could be a loose connection on the OTHER 3-way switch across the room. Also, verify that the dimmer is rated for the fixture(s): add together the wattage of each individual light bulb that the dimmer controls and make sure that the dimmer has a higher wattage rating. If it isn't, you might have burned up your dimmer (and risked an electrical fire). Hope this helps!