One of the "Air Volume Control" valves shoots

usa car? 4.0L?
1990 is super old jeep.
XJ begam in 1984 to 2001
the became KJ
quotes first

The vacuum switch controls vacuum to
defroster, floor, panel and fresh/recirculated air vacuum motors, as
well as a vacuum-actuated heater control valve (water valve). The
heater control valve closes when vacuum is applied to it.
The A/C switch is closed when the lever is in any of the A/C
modes (MAX, NORM or BI-LEVEL). The temperature control lever (lower
lever) moves a cable that controls the position of the blend-air door
in the heater case.
the controls on the dash control all vaccum
vacuum input from engine intake plenum port. 20"Hg at idle

no probem told at all just vugue,heater deal.
is the heater dead
or heater bend door dead
or heater water control valve dead (vacuum side dead) or just jammed. closed. we use a hand vacuum pump to test all vacuum servo slaves, and to see if vacuum commands are dead to any hose with a vacuum gauge.
or is this a pure dash vacuum controls all dead for all.>?
blower not dead on high?

here it is , All i need is this to fix it.
vacuum only map

if the question was water(not told)
then the answer is violet.
there are air valves and water valves both./
air valves are called xyz doors.
on hinges.too, axle hinged doors.

First check the if there's a debris screen on the got water inlet, as it may be plugged. Make sure the hot water volume is good. With hot water hose disconnected at the washer, put end of hose in bucket and turn on hot water. You should get 20L (5Gal) a minute minimum. If water volume is good and screens are not plugged, then likely the hot water inlet valve has seized. Could be both hot/cold valves are integrated so both get changed. Not a bad idea to just do them both if separate hot/cold valve.
If you know how to use a volt meter you could check power at the hot valve to make sure its not a control issue or swap the control wires and select a warm temp cycle. If you get cold water then its not a control issue.(dont forget to put wires back)

valve or a gasket, probably

You have red wires connected to bottom of gas control valve?
Is this a power vent model?
What model, what brand water heater?
Is new thermocouple is finger-tight plus 1/4 turn and not shorted against gas control valve?
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-thermocouple.html

Copy following link for safety magnet:
Magnet will click closed when pilot is turned off. Put butane lighter on end of thermocouple and listen for clicking sound.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Safety-magnet-Gas-control-valve.pdf

Copy following link for troubleshoot by type of gas control valve:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent

Bad gas control valve:
Low gas pressure, air in gas line, inadequate air supply, clean the air intake, tripped FVIR system, etc.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

P0411- Means Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected!
Possible causes - Vacuum hoses damaged.
- Air Pump inoperative.
- Air bypass solenoid circuit open.
- Air bypass solenoid leaking/blocked or stuck open/closed.
- Air diverter valve leaking/blocked or stuck open/closed.
- Air air hoses r Possible solution - Visually inspect vacuum lines for disconnects in the AIR systems and visually inspect for proper vacuum line routing. Repair if necessary.
- Disconnect the air pump hose at the solenoid valve, start the engine and see if there is air being pumped P0445- Means Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted! Possible causes - Damage harness or connectors to the Purge Control Valve
- The valve circuit is open or shorted
- EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve may be faulty
P0445 Description The EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve uses a ON/OFF duty to control the flow rate of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. The EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve is moved by ON/OFF pulses from the ECM. The longer the ON pulse, the greater the amount of fuel vapor that will flow through the valve. When is the code detected? - An excessively high voltage signal is sent to ECM through the valve

If you but a trim kit it has the installation instructions for the trim with it. Did you open the stops to let water in?

P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Dectected
Possible causes - Harness or connectors (EGR volume control valve circuit is open or shorted.)
- EGR volume control valve stuck closed
- EGR volume control solenoid valve
- Dead (Weak) battery
- EGR passage clogged
- Exhaust gas leaks Possible solution - Clean EGR Valve
- Repair EGR harness or connector
- Replaced EGR volume control solenoid valve
- Replaced EGR volume control valve
Code P0171- Fuel Injection System Too Lean Bank 1 Possible causes - Intake air leaks
- Front Heated oxygen sensor may be faulty
- Injectors may be faulty
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Lack of fuel
- Mass air flow sensor may be faulty
- Incorrect PCV hose connection Possible solution Dirty air filter of faulty air flow sensor are common causes of the problem P0174- Fuel Injection System Too Lean Bank 2 Possible causes - Intake air leaks
- Front Heated oxygen sensor may be faulty
- Injectors may be faulty
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Lack of fuel
- Mass air flow sensor may be faulty
- Incorrect PCV hose connection Possible solution Dirty air filter of faulty air flow sensor are common causes of the problem.

hi friend,

Water Inlet Valve
1. The water inlet valve connects the hot and cold water lines before entering into the washer, combining the two by means of solenoids in the appropriate proportions. The valve can become worn over time to the degree that it cannot close itself entirely, meaning water will continue to flow through it until the solenoids engage and shut off the flow. This can easily result in an overflow. To test the water inlet valve, first unplug the washing machine and disconnect the valve from the machine's back. Have a bucket handy because, if the valve is faulty, a good amount of water will drain from the valve when you disconnect it. A replacement water inlet valve is inexpensive and easily swapped out for the old one, provided you remember to turn off the water pressure leading to the hoses.
Water Level Switch
2. The water level switch is also known as the pressure switch. There should be a clear plastic tub running down from the control console to end near the bottom of the washer's drum. As water fills the drum, it rises within the tube as well, compressing the air already in the tube against the pressure switch. If the tube has become brittle and cracked, it will allow air to escape, preventing pressure from building inside and throwing the switch. Test it by blowing into the end. You should hear a click from the control console. If you do not hear anything, then either the pressure switch is broken or the tube is cracked. Remove the tube and the switch, which should be connected to the control console. The console can be accessed in various methods, depending on the exact model of washer you own. You should be able to remove the console by following instructions in the appliance's ownership manual. Blow directly against the pressure switch once you gain access. If it clicks, then the tube needs to be replaced; if it does not, then the pressure switch itself needs to be replaced.
Drainage Problems
3. The water outlet pipe near the base of the washer can become clogged with debris over time. Since washers continuously drain out dirty water and replace it with clean water as they wash clothes, it's possible that if the outlet valve or pipe is obstructed, the washer will overflow. Turn off the water and electricity leading to the washer and detach the outlet pipe, both at the machine and the wall. Run water through the pipe until the flow coming out is strong and clear and contains no sediment. If the pipe was clean to begin with, then the pipe running through the back of the wall to the drain may be the culprit. The pipe fitting should be female ended, identical to that of a garden hose. Attach a garden hose and slowly turn the water on until it's running at full force. The line should be cleared by the water pressure after 10 minutes of this. Attach the drain hose and turn the water and electricity back on.

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sivaranjini

Check if the volume of water supplied to the washer from the water line through the hoses attached to it is good. If yes, the screen inside the water-inlet valve if it is clean. If clean, the water inlet valve is defective and you need to replace it. The water inlet valve is located inside the washer on the upper back portion. It is where the water supply hoses are attached to.

Check to see if there's good water volume coming through the hoses attached to the washing machine. If there is, check to see if the screens inside the water-inlet valve are clean. (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If they're clean, you probably have a defective water-inlet valve. If so, you should completely replace the valve.

There's no water at all If there's no water at all, make these checks:

• Is there water getting to the machine?



• Is the water-volume selector switch set properly and are the control panel buttons pressed in all the way?



• If you have a Maytag® washer, is the fuse (if there is one) in the control panel at the lid-switch bracket blown?



• Is there a faint buzzing or humming noise coming from the water-inlet valve? (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If you can't hear anything, the water-inlet valve may not be getting any power. If you can hear some noise and there's water present, you may need to completely replace the water-inlet valve.