Water stopped pumping so ordered new pump. Upon removing the old I discovered it had a few straws twisted up into the pump. Removed and reinstalled pump and it sounds great and throws water all over with force. PROBLEM: Now there is ZERO water coming through top tube to spray arm. Pulled pump back off and noticed what seems to be a "white diverter ball" that moves a little in front of the inlet for the upper water tube. Any guidance to where the ball should be prior to installing the pump or is there a trick ?? Or am I entirely wrong and it is something else?? Any help is much appreciated in advance. Thank you. JR

The heater pipe slides out and the pipe is grooved for an o-ring that seals it from leaks. The pipe may be corroded in place and hard to twist and slide out. Try soaking it in wd-40 or similar product for at least an hour, then with a good set of pliers, grasp the pipe and try to twist it free while pulling outward, once removed, clean all the corrosion off the pipe and groove, preferabley with a power wire wheel. Slightly lube o-ring and fit it to the groove on the pipe and insert it into the new water pump being careful not to split the new ring.

The drain usually connects with a flexible plastic hose to the garbage disposal under your kitchen sink. Run the disposal for a minute to see if that unclogs anything.

Remove the hose and blow into it (use a straw and try to make a seal between hose and straw with your hand because old drain pipes taste really bad if you kiss them directly).

Otherwise, your pump may have gond bad - dishwashers do not drain on gravity alone. they all use pumps. Yours may not be worth replacing unless you are really handy and can do it yourself.

Pumps are available and located on the bottom of the unit. Disconnect drain hose. Disconnect circuit breaker. Remove panel by toe-kick and disconnect electical hard-wired connection. Disconnect water (under kitchen sink). Pull it out from under the counter. Order new pump, install and replace. Be careful with the electricity.

Good luck.

Hello bladresha: My name is Roger and I will help you. The water pump on the 4.0 engine is located at the rear of the motor inside of the water cross over tube. It does require special tools in order to remove and install. This pump does not bolt in or on to the motor. This is a twist and lock in pump. Just like the Cadillac Northstar motor. You will need to remove the upper hose housing from the crossover tube. Look inside of the housing and you will see the water pump. You will need to use the special tool in order to unlock the water pump. Pay close attention to the water pump when removed. There will be a notch in one of the ears. This is a location notch. The new pump must go in the same notch. I have attached a picture that shows the water pump location. Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

Water Pump - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
During these procedures, identify all components removed from the engine so that they may be reinstalled in their original positions. If discarding the old components so that new components can be installed, identifying the old items is not necessary.


1.3L and 1.6L Engines

1. Remove the timing belt cover, timing belt, tensioner, plate and spring.
2. Remove the water pump mounting bolts.
3. Remove the one (1.6L MFI engines) or two (1.3L and 1.6L TFI engines) small rubber seals from between the water pump and the oil pump, and the water pump and the cylinder head.
4. If necessary for clearance, remove the oil level dipstick tube retaining bolt from the engine block and the alternator adjusting brace.
   

Fig. 1: Exploded view of the water pump mounting

WARNING Do NOT use a prybar between the water pump housing and the engine block to separate the two components; this can cause scratches and/or gouges, which can prevent proper sealing.

1. Pull the water pump off of the engine block. If the water pump is difficult to remove from the engine block, use a soft-faced mallet to tap the water pump housing until it loosens.
   

Do not disassemble the water pump; if the water pump is damaged or defective, the entire unit is replaced.

1. Thoroughly clean the water pump gasket mating surfaces of old gasket material and corrosion.

To install:

1. Along with a new gasket, install the water pump on the engine block. Tighten the water pump mounting bolts to 88-115 inch lbs. (10-13 Nm).
2. On 1.3L and TFI 1.6L engines, install two new rubber seals: one between the water pump and oil pump, and the other between the water pump and the cylinder head. The MFI 1.6L engines only use one rubber seal, located between the water and oil pumps.

1. If removed, install the alternator adjusting brace and the oil level dipstick retaining bolt.
2. Install the timing belt, tensioner, plate, spring and cover.

Hope helps (remember comment and rated this).

Your soap is to thick. To get it to work you need to water the soap down some.

The water pump removal is a breeze on this vehicle. First remove your four bolts that hold the pully to the pump, then remove the serpentine belt. Next remove all bolts from water pump, now the fun part, pry the housing of the water pump off gently trying not to nick or gouge the engines placement for the housing. now all you have to do is make sure the housing is clean of all debris or old gasket material, you wouldnt want any of that gunk getting inside. nowplace your gasket properly on new water pump and place on housing. make sure the gasket fits nicely. reinstall pully to water pumy, reinstall your serpentine belt, place new antifreeze, I prefer the peak green full strength, make sure to mix correctly also. start engine let run for 5- 10 minutes and then let cool down and check levels. hope this helps.

Sometimes the new fuel pump will look different than the new on but It'll work. If your not been involved in car repair in the past them your not working on a car to learn on. Your smart and can follow directions and have someone to help you (think) then you may be able to do the job. In order to remove the existing pump the valve cover needs to be removed. The push rod arm on the pump is quite long and is hard ti direct to the place the old one was in without the valve cover off as the old gasket is leaking anyway it's a good time to change the gasket and a good parts man selling the pump should say and you need this valve cover gasket to. the pump has to studs with nuts holding it on and the air cleaner the valve cover and anything in the way of getting it off needs to be removed too. once the nuts are removed from the pump the studs may have to be removed too in order to get enought room to twist the pump enought to get the long arm out of the head as it runs on the cam in the middle of the head and the head is quite wide.

Greetings: Do you have your tools ready? You will need rachets, sockets, wrenches, DW4, breaker bar, new water pump with gasket sealer, a torque wrench and energy.
Let's get started on the shock absorbers first and loosen up your lug nuts and raise the rear of your truck and place it securely on jackstands. Remove the rear wheels. Position a floor jack under the differential and raise the jack just enough to take the weight off the axle. Remove the shock absorber top and bottom mounting nuts/bolts (you might need some WD4 Lubricant on the nuts and bolts) and remove the shock absorber. Installation is the reverse of removal but please make sure the spacer is installed on the inner side of the shock absorber. Tighten the mounting nuts and bolts to the proper torque for you truck. Do the same procedure for the front shock absorbers. That wasn't too hard was it.
Now let's change the water pump. First turn off your radio in the car so that when we disconnect the batter negative post and hook it back up we will not damage key components of the radio. Now disconnect the cable from the negative side of the battery. Next drain the cooling system coolant from the radiator into a pan. Remove the fan and shroud (that's the protection around the fan). Make a quick drawing on how the fan or drivebelts are hooked up and then remove the belts. Remove the pulley at the end of the water pump. Loosen the clamps on the water hoses and pull the hoses from the water pump. They might be tough to come off so use a pair of adjustable pliers and use them to grab each hose near the end and twist it to break the seal and then pull them off of the water pump. You might have to cut them off if they have been on too long and deteriorated. When you get read to reinstall put on new hoses.
Remove anything else such as a timing belt cover, if it is holding the water pump in. Remove the bolts from the water pump that locks the pump to the engine. Remove the water pump. Now its time to install the new pump. Clean the bolt threads and threaded holes in the engine, also the top of the engine where the old gasket was with a scraper, and lacquer thinner to remove gasket material, corrosion and old sealant. This is very important make sure the new pump matches the old one exactly or you will have to start all over after the pump is assembled and the car is ready to go because it will leak when the car is hot and under pressure. After all is clean, apply a thin coat of gasket sealant to the engine side of the new gasket. Next apply a thin layer of gasket sealant to the new water pump and then carefully mate the gasket and water pump. Install the water pump to the top of the engine (cylinder head) and carefully attach the pump, gasket and seal to the engine. Secure the water pump with two nuts, finger tight. Now this is important, pry the water pump up toward the cylinder head and install the remaining bolts. Tighten the bolts and nuts to the proper torque for your truck in 1/4-turn increments. (don't over tighten or you could cause damage or problems. Reinstall all parts removed earlier in reversed order. Make sure the radiator outlet is closed and add new antifreeze and part water. Check the drive-belt tension and crank your engine and let it run while you look for leaks. Hope I have been helpful and good luck.

Our Neff Dishwasher S5456X0 the pump was running all the time and the solution 1 worked. We removed the front panel under the door and the the flood camber was full of water. Drained it out with a sponge and the dishwasher is fine. Thanks

Sounds like your pump is blocked. **UNPLUG the machine**. lift or drag the machine to a spot where you can let the water dump out. The water comes out fast and makes a big mess. Tilt the machine back. On the front-right underside of the machine you will see the pump with the fan hanging down. Unplug the white plug and the earth cable from the back of the pump. You might notice that there is a white plastic clip that you can move to the side. Hold the clip out and twist the pump clockwise. At this point the pump will drop out and water will go everywhere. Try and take the pump out kinda fast so that the coil does not get too wet while the water is dropping out. you might find a blockage (coil, hair clip, underwire etc) sticking out from where the pump impeller sits. Pull out your blockage and check that the pump spins freely when you spin it by hand. If it does not spin freely you need a new pump.

Now, after you unblock your pump, you can put it back together the same way you took it off. Make sure the white plug is not wet before plugging it into the pump and make sure the pump coil is dry too! use a blowdryer to dry for a minute if unsure. When twisting the pump back in, the wires should be at the back of the machine and the earth cable is kinda close to the rotor (motor). Make sure the pump is sitting flat so the seal works too. That clip should click lock back into place to hold the pump from turning. The washer will not spin until all the water is out in case you are wondering. Hope this helps!