Unit Powers Up OK - but auto & manual focus do not adjust sufficiently to provide an in-focus image - no matter what the distance is between screen & projector. I am unable to focus the image correctly. The manual and auto focusing just gives a blured image. its a sony vpl cx 20

Turn the grey ring around the lens (where the light comes from) until the image is sharp.

Are you using an auto-focus m4/3 lens? I have about 20 lenses for this camera and only 1 of them is an auto-focus m4/3 lens. I have an adapter so I can use my 4/3 lenses on it in auto-focus mode along with other various mounts (including cctv) that do not support auto-focus. So if you are using a non-auto-focus lens, you will need to manually focus the pictures.
If you are certain it is an auto-focus lens, are you sure you have it set to auto-focus?
What settings do you have your camera set to (aperature mostly is what I'd like to know)? Try adjusting your aperature to be small (to increase your DOF).
Also what lens are you using and what is your focal distance? It could be your lens has a larger or shallower focal distance than what you are trying to achieve (like a macro lens doesn't work that great for landscape photography or a telephoto lens doesn't work great for macro photography).
Last thought: is your lens or sensor dirty? A dirty lens can cause focusing issues if it is REALLY dirty and a dirty sensor can too (sensor is a bigger pain to clean. I strongly recommend taking it to the pros as they scratch really easily). Dirty lenses can be cleaned with a blower and a lint free cloth and rubbing alcohol if those 2 things don't clear it out.

Not knowning model or make, I there are only two possibilities- battery operated, install batteries, and avoid exposing the the unit under power to bright light. Never look at the sun.

The other is a lever operated unit- hold unit to eye, press and HOLD lever- do not pump it. Adjust diopter lens- the one you look through- for best image focus.

If binocular, adjust the interoccular distance so you see only one target.

I just got one complete with manual and original box. It was not working, so I disassembled it and repaired the internal mechanism and recalibrated it for distance and vertical image coincidence.

Disassembly is easy (two screws at front and rear) and the "repair" for mine was to lubricate two pads that the mechanism rests on that were "sticky." I removed the mechanism, but that is not required -- just manual manipulation of the distancing arm should be sufficient to expose the lubrication points. Do not use 3-in-One or similar oil -- that thickens with time. Lacking the "proper" oil type (watch maker's), I would use a small drop of motor oil.

Calibration is simple -- use an object with a known distance that is about half the range of your unit. Adjust the "focus" knob to make the two images coincide (don't worry about vertical coincidence yet). Hold the thinner of the two distance adjuster knobs and turn the thicker one until the tape displaying the distance reads the actual distance to the known object. I would then adjust the image coincidence vertically by turning the screw on the bottom of the unit on the right (near the loop for a lanyard). It will be stiff! Turn it about a quarter of a turn and recheck vertical image coincidence -- if worse, turn it back the other direction a half-turn. Repeat with small turn increments until the images coincide vertically. Once that is done, recheck the distance calibration.

If you are trying to focus at a relatively close distance, you may be overpowering the scopes ability to focus at that distance. Most rifle scopes are set to parralax free at 100 yards.You can see this effect by putting the scope on its lowest power, focusing at 25-50 yards, and then increasing the power setting. You will see the image go out of focus as the power increases. This simply means that you must shoot at longer distances in order to use the scope to its full potential.

The other problem may be your parallax adjustment, but you may have already tried that solution.If not, make sure that the adjustment dial is set at the distance you are trying to shoot (minor adjustment from the indicated setting may be required to fine tune the image).

How new is the lens? In or out of warranty? If out or warranty most likely solution is to find a Sigma authorized repair shop because your description sounds like the auto-focus motor gear has failed. If in warranty, check out Sigmaphoto.com for repair sites and also download the SIGMA_SERVICE_REQUEST.PDF. I've only had to deal with Sigma once on warranty matter and they were very helpful, provided UPS authorization for shipping on their nickel.

One possibility that you can correct:
The eyepiece (viewfiender) diopter is out of adjustment for your eyesight.
Look at the viewfinder and locate the "slider".
Now look through the eyepiece (viewfinder) while in auto-focus mode.
Adjust the slider, left or right, until the image looks sharp to you.
If you wear corrective glasses, you can adjust the diopter whether you use your glasses or not.

This solution assumes that you are shooting in auto-focus; however, this also works in manual mode.
If you require more info, please post a comment for me, or view other expert advice.
-Just Gort.

Go to; www.konus.com, they are the maker of this rangefinder, or call them in Miami,Fl. at; 1'305-592-5500, they should be able to assist you with a Owners Manual.
Good luck. :)

I have one still in the box with manual. Do you still need one?

If the camera is having trouble doing an auto focus you can try the FOCUS LOCK feature. This feature allows you to focus on another subject roughly the same distance away from you, and then move the camera back to your original subject and take your picture without losing that focus. First turn the camera on and locate the AutoFocus Target Mark in the center of the LCD. The AF Target Mark resembles an open and close bracket [ ]. Position this AF Target Mark on a subject roughly the same distance away from you as the subject that the camera is having trouble focusing on. Press the shutter button halfway enabling the lens to focus. While keeping the shutter button pressed halfway, move the camera back to include the subject you originally wanted in the image, then press the shutter fully. (Please see page 20 in the D-425 Advanced Manual in Section 2, under the heading titled “If Correct Focus Cannot Be Obtained”, for a more detailed explanation. This Advanced Manual is provided on a separate CD, in Adobe PDF format.)