I am looking for a new antenna for the controller. The antenna lasted all of one day and can not find a replacement. The transmitter is a 49 MHz with a very small thread, not sure of the exat size. It goes with 1:14 chevy pickup, I think that is the one. More details if need be when I can get the truck from my grand son

According to GM there are 3 components in the RCDLR or RKE remote keyless entry system. My key fobs with new batteries only work standing right next to the car. The range of the key fob dropped at that the same time my TPMS tire pressure monitoring system repair warning came on my dashboard. The problem is that there are 4 different components on the 2015 Malibu. I will provide the GM part numbers for these, if you please tell me where they are and also how to replace them: #13583559 Remote Control Door Lock Receiver #13502554 Antenna #13502551 Ignition Lock Key Transmitter Antenna #13502549 Low Frequency Console Antenna

The system is working in the 860 Mhz range, so not that common. Most of the time it is cheaper to by a complete new system then to tray to buy components. Just keep looking in the thrift stores you find a transmitter for this headphone for a good price.

The box shouldn't say "two frequencies for competitive racing." That is misleading.

You would need to get the antenna specifically designed for your handheld. Sometimes these will come in different band splits such as 450-470 MHz and 436-460 MHz. You would choose the band split closest to the frequency you commonly operate on. Using an antenna not designed for your radio can cause problems with the radio, such as you mentioned, including beating up the internal power amp. (Same problem exist if someone presses the PTT when there is no antenna on the radio.) Contact a radio dealer who offers your type of radio for more info and to find out what types of antennas are designed for your radio.

If you are talking about a mobile vehicle radio. There are a wide variety of antenna types and the antenna is cut to suite your frequency.

REPROGRAM YOUR REMOTES USING THIS PROCEDURE:

REMOTE TRANSMITTER PROGRAMMING
Enter:
1. Turn the Ignition 'switch ‘OFF/ON’ 3 TIMES and stay in
ON position. Within 15 seconds.
2. Push the Valet switch 2 times and hold in on the 2nd
push, when a long chirp is heard then release the valet
switch. You are now in the Transmitter programming mode.
Program:
1. Press the Lock button on transmitter 1 until the siren
responds on Car with a confirming chirp; the first
transmitter is now programmed to Car.
Exit: Turn Ignition to 'OFF' position, or leave it for 15
seconds. 3 long chirps will confirm exit.
Note: If more than 4 transmitters programmed, the system
will only keep the last four.

If it is low audio, it could be a problem with your mic or his speaker. If your signal is low, I suspect it is likely to be an issue with your antenna system.

The antenna systen consists of the feedline or coax cable and the antenna. The feedline should be inspected for evidence of damage from being pinched, cut or water entry over its entire length., Remove, replace or reposition to prevent the cable from becoming damaged in any way.

The antenna itself should ideally be located at the highest point on the vehicle. Further, it should be secured to firmly into the metal parts of vehicle - preferable to a large, flat surface. The surface should be grounded.

Matching the antenna system for lowest SWR to the transmitter is required. SWR is a ratio of "power out" of the transmitter to "power that is reflected back" from the antenna. Ideal theoretical ratio or "match" is 1:1 (or one to one). Real-life is more like 1.1:1 (one point one to one). Most transmitters are perfectly happy with a match (or mismatch as the case may be) of 1.5:1 and some even up to 2.0:1. More than this is asking for trouble. A mismatched antenna system can cause RFI and failure of the output final transistors.

Matching or lowering the SWR of a radio to an antenna system requires that an SWR meter be installed between the antenna coax or cable and the transmitter's antenna connection point. There are two types of meters - dual needle and single needle. The dual type is more expensive, but easier to work. The meter must be capable of working on the frequency it is to used on. This means if it is marked as a 400 - 512 Mhz or UHF type, it will probably not be accurate on 27 Mhz or HF.

Once the meter has been installed, transmit the highest frequency or channel and take readings. Do the same at the lowest and a middle frequencies and record findings. Physically adjust the length of the antenna whip up or down in the antenna base - by no more than 1/4" inch (for 27MHz CB frequencies) and check again. After a few tries in one direction, you should begin to see how shortening or lengthening the whip changes the SWR of the system. Once set correctly, the middle frequency will have the lowest SWR value while the lowest and highest frequencies will have pretty close to equal, but higher SWR values. It would look something like this: Ch1 = 1.6:1 Ch 20 = 1.2:1 Ch40= 1.6:1 Of course, if Ch1 = 1.7:1 and Ch 40 = 1.6:1 that would be fine, too. Once completed, the SWR meter can be removed from the antenna system.

A poorly matched antenna system can cause permanent damage to the transmitter, if not corrected.

Unfortunately you can't. You will need to change the receiver or the transmitter so they are both the same frequency range eg 40mhz or 27mhz. Then you will need to check the crystal is the same frequency for the Transmitter and receiver eg 40.25mhz. NB. you can't put a 27mhz crystal into a 40mhz set or vise versa it won't work.

This can be due to one of several problems. Insufficient sized wires to the power source or a high SWR (standing wave ratio) between transmitter and antenna. The first is probably not a problem unless connected to an RF amplifier to boost output wattage. A high SWR however, is a more likely culprit. SWR is a ratio of power out of the transmitter to power that is reflected back from the antenna. Ideal theoretical ratio or "match" is 1:1. Real life is more like 1.1:1 (one point one to one). Most transmitters are perfectly happy with a match (or mismatch as the case may be) of 1.5:1 or even 2:1. Beyond this is asking for trouble. A mismatched antenna system can cause the failure of the output final transistors.

Matching or lowering the SWR of a radio to an antenna system requires that an SWR meter be installed between the antenna coax or cable and the transmitter's antenna connection point. There are two types of meters - dual needle and single needle. The dual type is more expensive, but easier to work. The meter must be capable of working on the frequency it is to used on. This means if it is marked as a 400 - 512 Mhz or UHF type, it will not be accurate on 27 Mhz or HF.

Once the meter has been installed, transmit at half power (or at least the amount needed by the meter) on the highest frequency and take readings. Do the same at the lowest and a middle frequency and record findings. Physically adjust the length of the antenna whip - by no more than 1/4" inch (for 27MHz CB frequencies) and check again. After a few tries, you should begin to see how shortening or lengthening the whip changes the SWR of the system. Once set correctly, the middle frequency will have the lowest SWR value while the lowest and highest frequencies will have equal higher SWR values. It would go something like this: Ch1 = 1.6:1 Ch 20 = 1.2:1 Ch40= 1.6:1 Of course, if Ch1 = 1.7:1 and Ch 40 = 1.6:1 that would be fine, too.

Double check everything once more at full power, so that you know the transmitter won't be damaged under full power conditions. Make any last adjustments and lock everything in place.

ANY 27MHZ SHOULD WORK

You need new SioScan Temperature Transmitter 433 MHz. Take a look on amazon La Crosse Technology TX6U Wireless Temperature Sensor for 433 MHz units.... Hope this was helpful. cheers