The ignitor is not lighting? It has power. Location of fuses????

check selionoid try jumper between battery terminal and starter terminal, if starter respond selionoid is bad. also there may be a 30 amp fuse strip at that location check this also.

It is all automatic, when you press start the power is sent to the gas assembly (if the timer is set for heat). The power originates from the cord to the timer to the temp control (on the blower housing) to the fuse next to the control, and to the gas assembly. The solenoids ignitor and flame sensor are all energized at once. The solenoids cannot release the gas unless the ignitor drops out of the circuit. That is the job of the flame sensor. Once the sensors bi-metal bends and opens the circuit, no more power goes to the ignitor< hoever, once the ignitor is glowing it generats a signal and becomes a thermogenerator with holds open the solenoid (holding coil) If for some reason the gas did not ignite the glow coil will cool off and shut down the solenoid. So what can go wrong? Lint buildup in the blower housing cause the fuse to melt. No power can be sent to the gas assembly. The flame sensor is open and not allowing power to the ignitor, the ignitor is open and not glowing. Old timey dryers had a pilot light. You hold down on the red lever and light the flame. Then release the lever and the pilot stays lit. I doubt if yours has a standing pilot. How modern gas dryer work:



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When you turn it on and hear the ignitor clicking, test for 12 volts at power wire to gas valve. If your not getting 12 VDC to gas valve when ignitor is sparking, replace module.

If that fuse is blown that dryer will run but no power will go to the gas valve,ignitor, or flame sensor.

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Their is no pilot light. The system uses a glowbarOPERATION
The newer dryers use a silicone carbide ignitor for ignition. If the Fuse is ok the gas assembly gets power from the control thermostat. The flame sensor allows the ignitor to go cat go. The coils themselves cannot open the gas because the ignitor is using a lot of power. When flame detect gets warm enough then it shuts down the ignitor and power is redirected on the other side of the 3 prong coil. The ignitor is not finished. It now is hot enough to act as a path to the secondary coil which energizes and sends that raw gas to the 1800f screaming hot ignitor. Igniton occurs and keeps the ignitor hot. If ignition at this point were to fail the ignitor would cool down and shut off the power to the secondary coil. Clever ain't it? So what can go wrong? Worn out flame sensor takes longer to reset, ignitor open. Clogged vent overheat fuse blown, bad thermostat, and faulty solenoids.If all is good it should continually shut on and off all during the cycle to regulate the heat


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Hello
Welcome to Fixya


Remove the vent line from the rear and try the dryer.
If it heats then that means there is a clog or kink in the vent line blocking the vent air from exiting which will stop the dryer from getting hot!
If not then it's another one of these problems.

Defective Ignitor (Gas Only)
When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature
in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking.
A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change
the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly.
You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of
resistance.

If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is
no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve
coils that are defective.

If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.

If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective.
The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats,
limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor
during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses.
DRYER DOES NOT HEAT



Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)

If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.

An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.



Defective Flame Sensor (Gas Dryer Only)
The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat
to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a
continuity check under room temperature.

Common Symptoms
If the flame sensor is defective in the open position,
the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started.
However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor
will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite.
In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of
time.



Defective Thermostat
The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature
in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the
temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change
the operating thermostat.

The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode.
It can prevent the element from heating at all.
A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.

There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw.
These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the
Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry
cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the
problem.


Defective Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor.
If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.

Location:
The thermal fuse is located in different locations according
to the model and brand of dryer.

Solution:
Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter.
If it is open, it will need to be replaced






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if this is a gas dryer and the ignitor is working the thermal fuse is fine.need more info .dose the valve coils make any clicking noisecheck with ohm meter to see if coils open/also is gas on

Are the ignitors intact? In other words, does the element make a loop back to the ceramic portion. The purpose of the LED is to notify the user of a defective ignitor. The other possibility is a bad control board.

If the ignitor is intact, but no power coming from the board (ignitor only glows for 5 seconds), then the board is bad or the fuse is blown. You might want to test the photocell while you are at it.

You will need to locate the correct model numbers to order the correct parts. "170T" & "125T" are only part of the correct model designation.

Post back if you have further questions.

Sounds like a fuse, they are usually found in a panel on the rear or under a cover on top of the dials. Find the fuses then check them with a multimeter to find the open one. You may even be able to see which is burnt through it's little window. If you find a burnt one then just get it replaced, should be able to find fuses at your hardware store. Good Luck!

Hi,

First look to see if the ignitor is coming on. Most common problem is the ignitor is weak or just bad.
When the power is applied to the ignitor it glows and builds up resistance to open the gas valve then it lights. If the ignitor is weak or bad it will not build up enough resistance for gas to come into the burner.
One sign of this would be a "woosh" sound when it trys to light. If the ignitor is coming on but not lighting it is most likely the ignitor is bad.
Should have a full glow. Also, if the ignitor looks whiteish in color this is a sign of it going bad. You can compare to the broil ignitor to be sure.

There are 50/50 chances of thermal fuse blowinf up which does not heat.Regarding the thermal fuse I would recommend to replace it one more time and not to use the Self clean any more until you will perform all checks and repairs according to the service pointer. The thermal fuse is located at the back of the oven..

You can check about the pica and description of it over HERE

And one more thing if used the broil method you also have to replace the broil heating element due to low resistance.

So finally i just want to say replace the broil element and the thermal fuse and your problem will be solved.

Goodluck,
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