Solved the unbalanced problem - open the top of the machine (press in with a flat putty knife about 3" in on the front on each side while lifting up as there are 2- 1" wide catches). Once both sides are unlatched, raise the lid then slightly lift the rear of the lid so that it fits into the curved part at the top of the hinges then open all the way - tape the lid to the top so it doesn't flap about and scotch the lid to keep it from falling back down on you. Now, look around - see all that rust? The rust has fallen into and gotten underneath one or more of the 4 white plastic suspension "ball joints" which have probably totally dried out by now from their factory grease because of the water, bleach, and rust particles. Having someone help you, simply lift up on one of the 4 corner suspension rods - gravity and weight is all that holds them down. The white ball will lift out of the socket and still be attached to the rod. Clean out the rust, lightly sand the "socket" with emery cloth, then slop in a fingerful of grease. I used automotive wheel bearing grease with graphite in it. Also scrub off all embedded rust on the white plastic ball. Lower that corner back into the newly cleaned and greased socket and repeat for the other 3 corners. Now when you move the tub around notice how the balls pivot in their sockets like they are supposed to. When they were dry and rusty they wouldn't move enough to allow the tub to twist like it should so it slammed around. Now, shake your head in disgust that after only 2 years there is so much rust that you wonder if it will make it another year before falling apart, close the lid, and try another load. That totally solved my off-balance problem where even a single handkerchief would give the UL error. It is still a finicky machine, but at least once again works like it did when new.
I discoverd this same thing. Tried exactly what you did and STILL the "ul" code.
Thank you, this helped me fix my problem. I was a little unsure what you meant by opening the top of the machine, but it is not that hard to do. The two catches are on the front side of the machine and in my machine, which is white, the catches are white too. They are metal. Don't confuse them with the black pieces you'll see when you look into the seam on the front of the washer. The black plastic pieces are further to the outside corners than the catches. I also think the catches are a little less than one inch wide. Once you open the top as described above, you can also open up the top of the basket. It is white in my machine and it is the part that does not spin, but is closest to all the rest of the spinning parts as you look in. This piece can be lifted by unsnapping a number of visible catches around the edge. When I did this, I found that i had overloaded the machine, and a pair of mesh shorts had actually gotten between the basket and the plastic container in which it sits. Everything works after removing those. Thanks for the great post as it saved us a ton of time and expense. Hopefully my post can do the same. I learned my lesson - don't overload!
I had the same issue on my Cabrio WTW6400SW2. Except I also had an OL error while it ran through a wash cycle. Essentially it would fill with water and the get an OL error. I had three pieces of clothing and would still get an OL and it would drain and end cycle early. So i would then put it on drain and spin to wring water out of the four pieces and it would be fine at low rpm then it would kick up speed and it would start banging around and then UL error. My OL error was caused by gunk and corrosion on the impeller shaft and inner basket bushing being seized together and not allowing the inner basket to float as water filled the tub. so i dismantled the machine. I had the most trouble getting the impeller nd inner basket out. I spent an hour trying to pull it straight up and out by hand. I had to take the machine completely apart down to the outer bare outer tub. I then tied a ratcheting strap rated for 500 lbs around the inner basket and hung the assembly on my engine lift outside. I then plugged the outer plastic tub holes with rags and filled halfway with water. I had some help in lifting this up and the dropping it to let weight of water to yank out inner basket. 45 mins later it finally popped off shaft. The shaft was heavily corroded and had other crud on it causing it to seize. Cleaned shaft and bushing on inner basket and all was well until it came down to spin cycle, UL error. Even when washer was empty it banged around once rpm increased. I replaced the suspension with new version of suspension that comes with plastic sockets that attach to washer then the balls seat in socket without the need for grease part #W10189077. This fixed my UL error and now I have a functioning washer. My recommendation is to do maintenance on washer yearly and run cleaning cycle monthly to wash away any dirt or grime that eventually scales up on outside of stainless steel inner basket and on shaft. Maintenance should at least consist of removing impeller and inner basket to clean and check shaft as well as clean lint trap which is below inner basket.
We've had our washer 6 years and for the past few months we've had the same uL problem. My husband checked forums for the problem, took the washer apart, and still did the same thing. Out of sheer exasperation & aggravation, we ordered a new suspension kit off ebay for $60. When it came in he changed the rods in about 5 minutes and voila...we've had no more problems so far. Fingers crossed!! I do know that I will not be buying another one of these "water saving" washers because what you save in water you eat up in electricity; it takes almost twice as long to wash a load than just a regular cheap washer! I really like whirlpool products, but have been very disappointed with this washer. And don't even let me get started on the dryer! I have never liked it!
Greasing the white plastic bearings and vaccuming out the rust fixed my UL ERROR.Thank you so much you saved me $$$$$.
I have the same problem with a Whirlpool Cabrio. I replaced the suspension rods a week ago on Saturday. We ran one load and it worked perfectly. By the second load (Thursday following the repair), we experienced the uL error once again. However, I didn't grease the plastic bearings as the instructions did not include that step. I will do that next. Thanks!
"open the top of the machine (press in with a flat putty knife about 3" in on the front on each side while lifting up as there are 2- 1" wide catches)."
F*** you for making this sound like an easy process.
I dnt understand anything thellmer was saying!
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I'm having same problem! had this washer for over 2 years, used it daily and loved it. Now all of a sudden i have every load come up UL and the basket will not balance at al, it just bangs around when trying to spin clothes no matter how evenly i spread the load - i even WEIGHED the clothes to get an even balance, but it wont balance for anything! I've had the last load in there over a week now and with 2 kids and a baby i cant manage without it. Is the basket driven by a belt or something that could possibly come loose? Need to fix it myself, cant afford a technician to come out!
Had enough of this issue with mine, getting another brand any brand and not looking back. Anyone want to buy a cabrio for spare parts?
I've been dealing with the UL problem for MONTHS. Tried cleaning the ball joints - didn't fix the problem. Replaced the 4 suspension rods ($47.99 on Amazon) and noticed immediately that the springs were much tighter than the old ones and the basket seemed to be up a little higher (I can't see down into the detergent dispenser cup when I look through the lid like I used to), PLUS the "new" rods have a 2-piece plastic ball joint thing that fits down against the metal. SO, thankfully this fixed my UL problem!!! Doing my third load right now with ZERO problems! Guess those springs get too "springy" after a while ... and that would explain the extreme shaking and moving when it would hit the 26 minute spin and 11 minute spin that it always seemed to stop at every single time and give me that UL error.
I'm having the same issue on the same unit I got in 2007. How difficult is it to change out the rods? Did you do it by yourself as I don't have any help? This machine is the worst, the motherboard went too, out of warranty. After a lot of complaining with Whirlpool, I finally got them to fix for free. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
It depends on how strong you are really. I did have help - one held up the basket while the other released the snap that secures the rod at the bottom of each. For the most part, it is pretty simple. They go into place easily. The most difficult part of it is holding the basket up and reaching down between the basket and the shell to get the clip to let go.
Thanks, it was difficult by myself, but I finally did it. If I had help it would have made it a lot easier. However, it did the trick, I learned something, and saved a lot of $$$$$.
AWESOME!!! Now, when you have to change the bearings ... THAT is a project!!! I had to replace that in January, but again, saved a lot of $$$$$ by not having to replace the machine.
Thanks for the info that replacing the springs solved your problem. I see that recommended often, but never confirmed as a fix. I removed my spin basket, a big job as it was rusted to the shaft, cleaned it up and it work perfect-for three loads, and then started again. I'm close to ordering the spring set.
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If you have cleared the codes by pressing pause/cancel and the codes keep setting call for service your still under warrenty let them deal with it
just trying to save you some trouble whirlpool makes a good product im sure its just a glitch let me check the service manuel and ill see what we can do and get back to you ps you must have had an old maytag lol whirlpool just might save them
ok after you opened the lid and redistributed the load and got the ul code did you close the lid and push start .Is the washer level and on a solid surfice sorry but i need to ask a few questions
does your inner basket spin freely by hand
The WORST !!!!!!!!! Mine was corroded when reached 9 months old. First I got F1 code, now by the end of 2 years I'm getting UL code the whole time, It will be hitting the dump soon. Do NOT BUY THIS PIECE OF JUNK. GRRRRRRRR Whirlpool SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!
Im having the same problem. You would think this would be a RECALL....but I guess not.
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My WTW6400SW2 (2007) was shaking like crazy with UL errors for months and getting so bad it wouldn't work. I thought it was going to fall through the floor as its on the 2nd story of the house. I figured I would try to fix it myself, if it doesn't work, I was going to buy a new machine even though this machine is lightly. The machine has had several problems, F1 codes. Fought with Whirlpool. After about 30 days and many calls and emails, Whirlpool fixed it even though out of warranty (main mother board). That would have cost me about $200. This time I, after researching the problem, I suspected it was the suspension rods. Went and bought a set of 4, $55.00 at http://www.searspartsdirect.com/. Not to hard to install, and its working like a champ again. I don't know how much that service call would have cost, but I'm sure well over $150. FYI, you can get those rods cheaper on Amazon or online somewhere, but I wanted to be able to return to a local store, so that's why I bought them locally.
Fixed. Do not drill hub. It comes half full of liquid to help balance tub. And before you replace suspension springs you need to look to see if something has gotten between the tub and the case. Remove snap on plastic schroud on top of tub and look with flashlight. I found a wash cloth and problem is fixed. No parts needed.
My ul light coming on problem was in upper rim of drum retaining water throwing the drum off balance drilled 8 evenly spaced holes in lowest part of that upper rim water drained now machine works fine no ul light no banging
Tried the "removing the drum, tried drilling holes in top of drum- "yeah" it drained about 2 cups water ( sealed so I'm sure "condensation" is how it got in there) and same thing. uL code.... Ordering rods/springs now. This is a piece of **** !
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thanks, i called whirlpool and was told a service tech cant come out until the end of the month! i have 5 kids and wash about 6 loads a day! one of the reasons i chose this model was bcuz of the large capacity and 4 different stores told me this was top of the line and would last for years and years!! Yea right! hasnt even made it to the 5th month! someone mentioned to me that whirlpool was bought out by maytag? i had a maytag washer/dryer for 13 years and only had trouble with a hose on the washer and heating element on the dryer...maybe we should have kept it!
I am having the same problem with a Cabrio 6200 series. We get the uL error and it splashes water on the floor.
After trying to redistribute the load 4 or 5 times, I emptied the washer completly and still get the uL error (empty tub)
I can hear water sloshing around but the tub is empty. Some excess water that is not draining for some reason seems to be my problem
washer wont evacuate/drain water even after cleaning the front drain but makes noise toward the back hose
The washer stops with the code "nd". As per the manual - poweroff/on the unit, try the "spin" only cycle. No luck.
When I start the spin only cycle, it does not spin but you can hear it draining a little water and then stop.
any other cycle the wash icon just flashes.
We don;t have hot water and only use the gentle short cycle.
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