Agitator spins tub doesnt

There is a clutch assembly under the tub that controls the tub and the agitator. It sounds like the problem is with that.

Sounds like the belt may need to be changed. it eh pulley are spinning but the belt is not, nothing will spin and the friction of the pulley against the belt will cause a burning rubber smell

sounds like u have a problem with the "brain". The agitator and spin cycle should never run at the same time. therefore it leads me to A: brain issue B:problem in the actual transmission of what cycle should be running. You will continue to smell the burning rubber due to the issue being one of the two explained above. Does it ever NOT spin? If this is the case the likely hood is that it will be a solenoid.

Hello there:
It spins, but doesn't pump out the water If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. It may be clogged or
broken You will need to inspect the pump for clogs by removing the inspection cover or plug and clean any debris that may be found inside of it then check for any broken parts and replace if any are found ok?
Hope this helps
Best regards mike

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.24992300&pathTaken=partSearch


and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

As an aside, a motor coupler is a common part (about $20) available from most appliance parts stores as well as Sears.

Check for a loose or broken belt.

Repair or replace is always a judgement call. Most people will be better off replacing the machine. This is a rather big job, labor wise. On a difficulty scale of 1 -10, I'd give it an 8. The metal is the inner area between the inner drum and the transmission shaft, which has corroded and started to break apart. (located under the agitator) To repair, the agitator is removed, the washer front and top are removed to allow the washer's outer tub cover to be removed. This allows the inner tub to be removed. (caution: the big nut under the agitator drive spline is a left hand thread) Then, the drain hose, water level hose, suspension rods, and electrical to the motor are all removed to allow the entire drum to be removed from the washer to allow the inner tub to be removed. The actual metal part which needs to be replaced is then easy to replace by removing a few torx head screws from the underside of the inner tub.

Hi, You can unsnap the plastic splash ring and see if something is between the tubs. The inner tub turns rather hard anyways. The agitator might have a 1/4" screws in the side of it to hold it onto the shaft of the transmission. If not, just pull the agitator up real hard.
Under the agitator is a spanner nut that holds the inner tub in place. I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.

Vic

i would assume that perhaps you did not wind hte belt correctly arround the legs of the pump and therefore are not putting the correct tension on hte pulley(remember to hook spring back up to tension idler?)

suspect gearcase ask for estimate first..could be more than new washer