Bought Avanti refrig. in February, 2018. Refrig. section has started running very loud. Can't get a tech here until next Monday. Wondering if it's safe to leave it alone?

SOURCE: Amana bottom freezer/ refrigerator

Geezer, sounds like a defrost issue. I usually find the bi-metal to be the culprit on this model. Check out the pic. You will have to remove the back panel in the freezer and defrost the evaporator. Remove the ice maker if there is one. The back cover has 4 quarter inch screws. remove those. The air vent has 2 plastic clips one each side and one on the bottom, push in and pull the grill off. The thermistor cover has a slot for a flat blade screw driver,push in and pull the cover off. The thermistor will now slide behind the back panel. Check the bi-metal for buldging. As long as the evaporator fan is working, it's probably a defrost problem.

SOURCE: refrig/freezer thermistor temp/resistance chart needed

by model# you can get it not all carry the same (temp)

Ned C Cook

• 3433 Answers
• Posted on Jun 03, 2009

SOURCE: Refrig constantly runs and is only semi cool, same w/the freezer. Left out in a cool room in the winter and stop running when it was cold. Started refrig back up and now runs constantly w/out cooling

Let freezer get down in temp and fridge should start chillg.Good luck

SOURCE: Whirlpool top freezer refrigerator- compressor makes a loud noise

The compressor is that black casing you see at the bottom of your refrigerator - inside this sealed case is the motor assembly which stits on 3 or 4 springs that act like a cushion - you have a little gap at the bottom where the lubricating oil is present. Your springs have likely worn out and when the compressor shuts off the assembly is banging against the rigid casing make that loud "klonk" or bang noise. It IS normal for compressor to make some faint "tick-tick-tick...tick.....tick" when shutting off, but loud banging, bell sounds, etc, means the assembly is banging on the case from the inside - you can indeed live with the noise, your compressor will function normally, probably for months, or even years - it can also keep wearing out and one day the noise might get very loud (like a very high humming noise) - There is NOTHING that can be fixed, you either pay $400+ to change the compressor or buy a new refrigerator - If you DO replace a compressor usually the replacement will be noisier - Keep a thermostat inside your refrigerator at all time to make sure your compressor is still keeping your refrigerator and freezer cool.

SOURCE: Problems for Refrig. Kenmore Elite

The Er DH error code indicates the temperature sensor on the evaporator coil did not reach 50 degrees within one hour.
This would indicate the control board did put the refrigerator through a defrost cycle.

This problem could be caused by a defective relay on the control board, a defective defrost heater, a broken wire to the heater, or a stopped up drain on the defrost pan causing ice to form on the evaporator coil.

Before replacing the control board, someone should remove the food from the freezer, remove the freezer drawer, and remove the evaporator cover to expose the evaporator coil, heater, and defrost sensor.
The voltage to the defrost heater should be 120 volts ac.
The defrost heater is part of the evaporator coil and is not replaceable as a separate part.

You can test the operation of the defrost system by pressing "Ultra Ice" and "colder freezer temp" for 3 seconds.
The first time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and open the damper.

All displays should be on.


The second time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and close the damper.

The third time you press and hold the buttons, the board will turn the compressor and fan off and turn the defrost heater on for around 25 minutes. This would let you know if the defrost system is working.


http://knol.google.com/k/fixing-the-er-dh-code-on-kenmore-elite-trio#

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