LG LFC23760 bottom freezer, french door, single evaporator coil, code 67 on freezer stat, evap fan turns on for a few secs for about 5 cycles and shuts down, tested defrost sensor and evap motor wndng

Have you confirmed the freezer door switch is functional? If this switch fails to detect the door is shut (you may or may not get an alarm), the unit will fail to cool properly. Meaning the actuator will not allow cold air to be diverted to the freezer.

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Check for frozen evaporator coil resulting from a failure in the defrost system or a failed evaporator or condenser fan motor.

This will work for what you are doing=> LFC23760 Service Manual
Thanks Sea Breeze

Sounds like you ay have forgot to plug one of the wire harness on to the PCB? Did you check for voltage at the evap fan motor

Appliance Repair

The Er DH error code indicates the temperature sensor on the evaporator coil did not reach 50 degrees within one hour.
This would indicate the control board did put the refrigerator through a defrost cycle.

This problem could be caused by a defective relay on the control board, a defective defrost heater, a broken wire to the heater, or a stopped up drain on the defrost pan causing ice to form on the evaporator coil.

Before replacing the control board, someone should remove the food from the freezer, remove the freezer drawer, and remove the evaporator cover to expose the evaporator coil, heater, and defrost sensor.
The voltage to the defrost heater should be 120 volts ac.
The defrost heater is part of the evaporator coil and is not replaceable as a separate part.

You can test the operation of the defrost system by pressing "Ultra Ice" and "colder freezer temp" for 3 seconds.
The first time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and open the damper.

All displays should be on.


The second time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and close the damper.

The third time you press and hold the buttons, the board will turn the compressor and fan off and turn the defrost heater on for around 25 minutes. This would let you know if the defrost system is working.


http://knol.google.com/k/fixing-the-er-dh-code-on-kenmore-elite-trio#

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Okay,
Defective compressor, refrigerant low from a leak in the system, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan not working, bad compressor relay or capacitor, main thermostat control not working, thermostat needs to be set at proper setting, frozen evaporator coils do to faulty defrost timer, defrost heater coil broken, or the defrost determination thermostat has stayed in the open position, which would result in no defrost and the ice blockage would stop air the circulation, defective evaporator fan, defective door switch which controls the evaporator fan when one opens and closes the freezer door. Freezer drain clogged which would possibly cause the fan to be stuck because of ice built up around it.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/36832aba1a29de4d852570ad004ec13e/$FILE/FDBMREFRIG.pdf
We replaced the evaporator motor. Use an Ohmmeter to see if electricity is going there, first, see if fan is running, then, if not, replace evaporator motor-part # 12002744.

Fridge is now running! I'll post again, if there is any more to the story. We are now waiting to see if it gets to temp, but it is running. I'd love to find info on a reset code.

Sounds like iced up evaporator fan/coils.FF- frosted freezer?er-no air flow to Fresh Food compartment?

Hi, With the information you supplied i'm going to assume there is an ice build up at the rear of the freezer. Your problem is going to be with your defrost system. I will also assume you have the ability to repair this yourself. This is going to be one of three problems with your refridgerator, 1st thing to do is remove shelfs and panel in the back of the freezer...you should see ice build up on the evaporator...don't worry get a hair dryer and melt the ice. Next locate the wires for the heater...using a multi meter test the heater for condinuity...if the heater is bad replace it, If the heater is good replace the defrost thermostat..the stat normally is a barrel looking part clipped onto the evaporator pipe. The last possible problem could be the evaporator fan, have you heard the fan running in the past few hours?..if you are not sure pull the panel out to where you can see fan and watch it over an hour to see if it turns. I have included links with pictures of what the parts you need to check are: http://romulusappliance.com/manufacturers/maytag/refrigerators/575432.JPG defrost stat http://www.hotekalliance.com/UploadFiles/2008627111553382.jpg heaters http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/EvapMotor1018185.jpg evap fan. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. If you decide to get a repair guy in should not cost you any more then $120 - $200 depending on make/model/problem Good luck & thanks for using fixya! Mike p.s. please don't forget to rate this free solution.

Sounds like the drain from the freezer evaporator coil is plugged causing the condensate to overflow and fill the bottom of the freezer then refreeze. Most freezers have a drain line from the evaporator to the bottom of the refrigerator leading to a collection pan to allow evaporation of the condensate. You may be able to access the evap condensate pan by removing the rear panel of the freezer. I can not say for sure without the specific model of the unit in question.