I have 2 led transforms connected to a toggle switch. Can I put a toggle dimmer 600W controlling these transforms?

No, not unless the transformers and LEDs are rated for dimming and the switch is rated for LEDs.

I can't locate the Lutron D1500 dimmer switch on Lutron web site. Perhaps there is a different number for it.

Anyway, you are attempting to dim a total of 800 watts of light. A standard dimmer switch will not handle this much of a load as they are rated for 600 watts. A 1000 dimmer is the next size up and would be the minimum rating to be used. This means the dimmer would be operating at 80% of capacity and the switch may become warm - but all within acceptable limits.

A dimmer switch rated at 1200 watts or even 1500 watts may be a better choice, as the 800 watt load would present a load that would only be 66% and 53% (respectively) of rated capacity, and would likely run cooler and last a lot longer.

The down side to these higher wattage rated switches is their cost. It is not unusual for the price to double for a 600w vs a 1000w dimmer.

Sometimes, a 1000w dimmer is not sufficient to control a 600w load. This happens when 2 or more dimmer switches are installed in a single location under one wall plate. It is a fairly common arrangement for electricians to install 2, 3 or more "ganged boxes" so that there aren't 2, 3 or more individual switches clustered around a doorway. Even though a two ganged box has twice the area of a one gang box, the issue is about heat dissipation. A box will contain the heat. So the heat is given up from the front of the switch. The metal fins provide more area for cooling. When two or more dimmers are located in a multiple-ganged box, there is too much heat for the space. Two 600 watt dimmers would need to be derated to about 450 watts each (instructions for derating are included with the switch - each manufacturer has their own formulas), and if three 600 watt dimmers were in a single location, they might need to be derated to 300 watts each. So, simply moving to a 1000 watt or 1200 watt dimmer may not get you to the 600 watt level if there are several dimmers that require derating to 50%. Installing dimmers in boxes with standard "toggle" type (non-dimming) switches require no derating as toggle switches do not produce appreciable heat.

Make sure that the lighting load is a type designed for dimming. The popular CFL (compact fluorescent lamps) are not designed for dimming, unless the package specifically states otherwise. Lights that have a filiment but no transformer, ballast, starter, etc. are the only ones suitable for use with a dimmer (again - unless the package / fixture states otherwise). The dimmable types are typically "standard" incandescent, quartz, halogen and tungsten types.

Furthermore, a dimmer switch is not suitable for use as a fan speed control either. There are special switches to provide speed control of fan motors. Use of a dimmer on a motor load is a fire hazard.

I hope this helps & good luck!

If you have determined the wiring to be correct, then yes, the remote is probably defective..

According to Lightolier literature, your Lightolier OS600 is called a "strap dimmer". Having 540W on a 600w rated switch is pretty close to the limit (90%) of the switch, and will cause the switch to fail sooner than say a 300w load. The 600w rating of the switch applies only if all the heating sink fins are in place. Often times, when installing in a box with another switch or dimmer, fins must be removed to allow the switch to physically fit. If any fins are removed, the rating of the switch is reduced. Page 30 of the manual shows that a 600w strap dimmer that has a single fine removed is reduced to a 500w capacity dimmer, and if both fins are removed, it is reduced to a 400w dimmer. You may find that you will need a 1000w dimmer to reliably gain control of your 540w load, as it will control 600w even with both fins removed. This derating is required due to the heat created by the dimmer. Heat is a killer for electronics, and solid state dimmers are no exception.

Check out page 32 of that manual. On it, are wiring diagrams for dimmers and switches. I believe your is figure "G" that shows the 120v "hot" (black) connected to the black wire of ALL switches, the yellow wires of ALL the switches are connected together, but are not connected to anything else, the 120v neutral (white) connects to the MASTER white wire AND light fixture white wire and finally, the MASTER red wire connects to the light fixture black wire.

It is also important to note that these switches are for standard tungsten incandescent and quartz halogen lamps ONLY. They are NOT suitable for CFL, Fluorescent or other types frequently found in commercial / industrial buildings such as neon or other gas lamps such as Metal Halide, Mercury Vapor, High Pressure Sodium, etc.

I hope this helps & good luck!

It's not quite that simple..

According to the manual for your switch, it is stated "Use with magnetic low-voltage transformers, incandescent, or 120V halogen fixtures only." Also, there is a minimum load of 40W or 40VA. Your LED lamp load will need to satisfy BOTH of these requirements. Electronic circuits are not to be "dimmed" with this dimmer - but use of either the VZE04-1L (400W max) or VZE06-1L (600W max) is supported.

You will need to provide the manufacturer and model number of the LED lamp(s) to be dimmed by this switch. Or, you can use traditional dimmers (if desired) with LED lamps that are specifically labeled as "dimmable" on their packaging.

Once the lamp model is known it will be possible to learn about their dimability assuming that they are not cheap imports with no real customer support contacts. Name brand lamps will have this support, and you can even call them yourself and inquire directly about the suitability to task for the dimmer. If the lam company doesn't know about the switch, contact Leviton with the lamp info at Customer Service: 1-800-323-8920 • FAX: 1-800-832-9538 Tech Line: 1-800-824-3005

Good luck!

Your issue is that the dimmer is not rated to handle the type of fixture/lamps its controlling.

From a lighting control standpoint, the 12V-lamps classify as "low-voltage halogen" and, somewhere in that circuit, have a transformer(s) converting the 120V~ down to 12V~. Using incandescent dimmers (like the one you are using) can cause compatibility issues with those transformers. What I suspect is happening is that the incompatibily is either throwing voltage spikes or current spikes on the line which are causing the dimmer to enter some sort of "safety" mode to shut everything down before any problems occur.

My recommendation is to first figure out what type of transformer it is: Either magnetic low-voltage, or electronic low-voltage. Ideally you would contact the transformer manufacturer (or look up their specs online) to figure that out. Other rules of thumb: if the transformer's big & bulky, it's probably magnetic - conversely if its lightweight, it's probably electronic. If its only one transformer controlling all of the lamps together, it's probably magnetic - conversely if its one of those transformers where the transformer and light bulb come togheter as one assembled unit and then snap into the track, it's probably electronic.

Then make sure the dimmer is rated for magnetic low-voltage, or electronic low-voltage (depending upon what the transformer is).

The switch has gon bad on you. You need to replace the dimmer switch

If each pendant has an individual transformer that is about the size of a hotwheel then you need a dimmer specifically for ELECTRONIC LOW VOLTAGE. A lot of electricians don't know that the different types of lights require different dimmers. Most store bought dimmers are for incandescent lights only, and some nicer dimmers like the Lutron Maestro's are rated for incandescent or MAGNETIC Low Voltage which require a different Sin wave interuption. I don't know that leviton makes a dimmer in that style for Electronic Low Voltage. You could install a Lutron DVELV300P-Wh, but that is a Decora opening. http://www.lutron.com/CMS400/WorkArea/downloadasset.aspx?id=25437
Here is a link to explain the difference in how the dimmer needs to work. Good luck!

Some dimmers are specific to which end of the 3-way system they are installed on "Power" or "Switch Leg". The way you can test which side is the power and switch leg is to test the wire on the "Black" screw of the switch (common) to ground with the lights OFF. If you have power on the "common" screw with the lights OFF it's the power end, if you have no power on the "common" screw with the lights OFF it's the switch leg end. Verify that you have the dimmer on the side specified in the instructions (switch leg). Sounds to me like you have it on the "Power End" so you are dimming on of the travelers instead of the light. That is why it is dimmed in one position and not in the other. (See page N-23)

http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/N.pdf

Sounds like a loose connection. If they all fo out, it's at the beginning of the circuit. Check all connections at the start of circuit.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Consider using a MAELV-600 and a MA-R. The MAELV is rated for 600W Electronic Low-Voltage. The MAELV will require a neutral wire connection.

www.lutron.com/maestro