Hello I was defrosting and was trying to move things along and pushed a knife into the coil . I put some tape over it so no moisture would enter. Is there a good epoxy that can seal that?

Could be a number of things.... no freon ( somebody tried defrosting the freezer with a knife & punctured the coil, the fridge might need defrosting..... do you have power to the fridge?

1st reset your unit,, do this by setting the temp to off and unplug for 5 - 10 mins. this will put it in an automatic defrost mode. mine built an ice bank on the evap, remove the back wall of the freezer(6 screws) and use a blow dryer to melt, remove it all,DO NOT CHIP IT OUT the coils are very thin.. now if this continues its one of 2 things defrost timer is bad, or you have an air gap allowing moisture in,,,ice maker door.... both easy fixes

Once a hole allows freon to escape, it's usually best to replace the product, as moisture will enter the sealed system and contaminate everything.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but what has happened is,where that small diameter tube connects the evap. coil its soldered then the connection is covered with heat shrink tubing,when that joint busted and the refrigerant came out,allowing moisture to enter into the sealed system,that moisture will wreak havoc on the compresssor and the evap.coil
Here is what is needs to be replaced to repair that

Compressor
Evaporator coil
Refrigerant filter/dryer
Refrigerant charge
Misc.items fee(silver solder is the only solder than can be used, it's expensive)

A good place to start is with the return air filter, check to see if it is dirty, if so replace.
Also if your evaporator coil is dirty, air cannot pass thru the fins and across the coil, or your duct work may have come apart, I would recommend checking filter first, if this does not resolve the issue, look outside at the large copper line, if ice is present, your system may not be fully charged, possible leak in a line or coil, either way , you will need a pro to repair the system because of EPA laws and also the specialty tools required to make said repair.
One other possibility is the evaporator coil is plugged , this would require going into attic where heater is located and visually inspecting the coil, if you are mechanically inclined and can open the transition between the heater and the coil, then you can do it yourself.
1. Turn power off to unit.
2. locate screws along edge of coil and remove. ( usually 1/4 or 5/16 hex chuck on cordless drill should do the trick.)
3.Carefully pull apart along seam, may need box knife if taped.
4.look at entering side of coil with flashlight, if you notice a blanket of dirt dust across coil and do not see the fins, you will need to clean it.
5.use a stiff brush like a toilet brush to remove the majority of the debris from coil with firm and gentle downward strokes, then spray coil with formula 409 (a great degreaser !!) and re assemble duct, be careful where you screw the screws in at,put back in same holes if possible.
6. tape seam up with a good duct tape to prevent air leaks.
7. turn power back on to unit and enjoy the cool air!!
Don't worry about the 409, the coil will sweat and rinse itself!!
If you have electric heat, then there will be a box coil,again turn power off!!
you will remove the side cover, and if an a coil, another inside panel,otherwise the same as above to clean.
Hope this helps, if you have any questions, please ask,

Remove the battery and keep aside for about 15 minutes. Now after inserting reset the camera., if the fault occurs., remove the tape and use a hair dryer to blow into the tape tray section/drum section.
It is possible that the dew sensor is working to indicate moisture, if so the heat will change the fault.
Also if the hall IC's within the drum is faulty the drum will not move and so will indicate a fault-- service.

have the same on labelmanager 450. See if you can see any tape/glue particles on either side of cutting edge .
I cleaned the cutting edge with a thoothpick by pushing the point on the cutting edge and cleaving the wood, then moving ther thoothpick up/down along the cutting edge. Usng any metal tools may damage the knife.
Roger(Belgium)

Hello.
The first thing you need to do is take out the bottom drawer in the freezer and look into the slots in the back panel. Make sure that you can see silver coils, and not a bunch of frost. If there is, then you need a new defrost timer, defrost heater, or defrost terminator.

If all looks ok then make sure the fan in the freezer is running. (You may have to push the door switch if yours has one.) If the freezer fan isn’t blowing however, the freezer will be warm at the top and cool at the bottom, and you fresh food compartment will be warm.

Another thing to make sure is that the light it turning off when the door is closed. Again you would have to push on the door switch. I was amazed to learn when I first started this line of work, that even a little light bulb can make enough heat to cause a problem.

These are the most common issues.

Let me know if everything looks ok and I will go over some other things, as the list of things that can go wrong with a refrigerator is fairly long.

I had the same problem with mine, it's due to the fact that the smaller spring has become un-lodged from the ******** itself.

You will need:
1. Roll of electrical tape.
2. Utility Knife
3. A small slot head screw driver OR a pair of needle nose pliers.

The solution is to unscrew the silver ring so that is can be moved up and down. Now, you need to use a utility knife and cut the blue rubber off of the spring. Once you have the blue rubber but off you can see a large spring with another smaller spring inside. Push the head of the ******** till the larger spring's coils are an 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch apart. Next take either the small slot head screw driver or a pair of needle nose and jam the smaller spring back into the hole in the center of the white plastic piece inside of the larger ring. Next plug it in to make sure the vibration is working, reattach the silver piece and tape the larger spring with electric tape.

the front panel display initializing and then disapear and then the functional buttoms begin to flash. nothing happen again. when i press the on buttom the same thing reocurre