What else can I check - my fresh food side of fridge is still too warm, freezer fine.

On your model I would go straight to the defrost heater and defrost thermostat and check them first after defrosting the evaporator first with a hair drier. Both parts need to be replaced=> WR51X10055 Defrost Heater Assembly and the=> WR50X10068 Defrost Thermostat APPLIANCE 911

In most cases something has blocked the vent from the freezer. Sometimes you catch this at a point that the freezer seems too cold but just what may be happening is the ADC control has failed causing the evaporator to freeze over with frost blocking air flow to the fresh food section. The ADC is Adaptive Defrost Control and can be forund here=> ED5GHEXNL00 Fresh Food Section Controls in that photo location 6 is the ADC or defrost control board=> W10353224 Defrost Control Board If you disconnect refrigerator from power source and lower control panel you can look this board over on both sides. Sometimes you will see burn marks or signs of heat damage, not always.


Second most Likely is the defrost heater behind the rear wall of your freezer=> ED5GHEXNL00 Unit Parts and in that photo part location 33 is the=> 2188175 Defrost Heater Assembly


Ways to test this heater are on same page. Then we always need to consider the defrost thermostat found here=> ED5GHEXNL00 Air Flow Parts item 6 in that photo. At -5 to +5 degrees the contacts inside should be closed and once the freezer goes into defrost the defrost thermostat opens its contacts at 50 degrees to prevent extended defrost. Part Number=> 2321799 Look inside rear of the freezer and if a layer of frost is building on rear wall then you most likely have a defrost problem causing the freezer to be colder. If fan in freezer is working properly then you should have a steady stream of cold air flowing to the fresh food compartment. Let me know just what you find so I may assist you in the repair, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Hi,

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heatman101

If it isn't due to the fridge contents obstructing the cold air outlet in the fresh food compartment, it's probably an issue with the thermostat in the fresh food compartment or the fan(s) in the freezer compartment.

It may also be the first indication of a failed part in the defrost circuit. If the freezer compartment begins to warm over the next day or so, there may be an issue with the defrost timer, defrost terminator, or heater. Before digging around there tho, make sure the cold air openings in the fresh food compartment are not blocked.

If the fan(s) in the freezer have failed, they won't be able to blow the cold air into the fresh food area. If the thermostat failed, it will never be able to send power to the fan to cool the fresh food compartment.

Depending on your capabilities, this may or may not be a good DIY type job. Sometimes, a warm fridge / freezer is due to a refrigerant leak, and will require a licensed refrigerant tech to make repairs. Working in the tight confines of a fridge can be difficult - especially when testing components with power on.

I hope this helps - good luck!

If you have already adjusted the controls for temperatures in both compartments and allowed 12 - 24 hours to stabilize and the trend is continuing, there may be a problem with the fans that move the cold air from the freezer to the fresh food compartment. The fridge may also start allowing temperatures to rise in the freezer soon, too.

All of these problems originate in the freezer compartment, where the cooling is done. Behind the back wall; inside the freezer - lies the cooling coils, defrost heater, circulating fan(s) and defrost terminator sensor. Unplug the fridge. Empty the contents of the freezer, remove the ice maker assembly and the back wall plate and you should see these components. If it looks like a large block of snow and ice, the problem is with the defrost circuit components. If clear with a minimal amount of frost, the warm fridge is the result of blocked or limited airflow from this area to the fresh food compartment - likely a failed circulating fan. Plug the fridge back in and check to see if the fan is running - since the fridge is warm, it should be running. The fan or the thermostat will probably need replacing if it is not.

If icing or frost is the problem, you'll need to isolate and replace one or more of the following: defrost heater, defrost terminator or defrost timer. The last two are the usual suspects for this type of failure - but the heating element can fail too. Many times, the defrost timer is accessible from the front of the fridge, behind the kick plate below the freezer door on the right side. Other times it is located in or near the temperature control area.

Good luck!

the freezer works ok..this is where the cooling unit is..so, if the freezer works ..its not blowing or allowing air to flow into fresh food area..if its missed its defrost..it will not allow air to go into fresh food area and you need to remove panel and defrost coils ..or see if blower is working...check for bad heater or defrost thermostat or what controls defrost ie timer or board

Your model is most likely the Profile Artica style. Most times the defrost heater is burned out behind the rear of the freezer wall. Manually defrost and look at the defrost heater to see if burned out. That model possibly has the glass covered defrost heater and will be easy to spot if burned out because the element is inside a glass tube, If you replace the defrost heater also replace the defrost thermostat, Please send me your model number located near floor of the fresh food compartment door seal and kick plate, Thanks Sea Breeze

It is possible that your adaptive defrost assembly found inside the fresh food section and behind the control panel is defective. If not we need to check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. Sea Breeze

61005988 Adaptive Defrost Assembly

Forcing the frig into a defrost cycle may not solve this problem long term. The old fridgs had a sliding door which bled cold air from the freezer into the fresh food compartment which you simply adjusted to keep your fresh food compartment at more or less the proper temperature. This simple manually operated sliding door has now been replaced by a motor actuated sliding door that is controlled by the fresh food compartment thermostat. On Whirlpool side by side fridges, the door has, for some reason, been designed so that the sliding door itself will shear or break if the door encounters an obstruction such as ice in the sliding track. Those geniuses designed it so that the door will always fail in the CLOSED position. This means that if this door breaks, the door letting cold air from the freezer into the fresh food compartment will stay closed and not permit any cold air to enter the fresh food compartment and all your food will spoil. The stupid fridge, will continue to run and run because the thermostat in the fresh food compartment will continually call for more cold air, which is just not available due to the broken door. Eventually, the freezer coils will completely ice up and you will see frost on the outside of the panels that cover the coils. If the door is broken, defrosting the freezer will NOT result in any cooling of the fresh food compartment because the door is closed. To check, use a mirror to see if the door is open. The door is typically on the upper back corner of the fresh food compartment on the freezer side. It will have louvers on it. Using a mirror and a flashlight, you should be able to see if the door is open. If it is closed, using a small screwdriver, you should be able to move it open (unless it's iced up). If you can easily move it open with the screwdriver, the door is definitely broken. At this point you have two alternatives. One is to replace the unit and be very careful about too frequent door openings and overloading the frig with food that is warmer than room temperature. These motor controlled units are not cheap. I should know having bought three of them before getting smarter. The other alternative is to attempt to rebuild and/or repair the sliding door assembly. Dis-assembly is accomplished by carefully cutting off the styrofoam front with a box cutter or something similar. This will expose the door and motor assembly. You can either try and glue another piece of plastic where the readily identifiable broken piece was, or attempt to fabricate a whole new door from a suitable piece of plastic. In any case, finish the job by applying lots of silicone lubricant to the door and door tracks to keep it from sticking again. Simply taping on the styrofoam front is good enough till the next time. I hope this helps you with your problem.

you have either a Defrost heater / a defrost timer/ or a defrost bi-metal that is bad. if you post your model # i can look it up and show you how to set it into defrost to see if the heaters are ok
Since you replaced the timer already that leaves two things you need to check set it into defrost if you know how and remove the panel in the back wall of the freezer you should see the heater(s) are on if not check pwr 120vac at the heaters if 0 volts the bi-metal is bad