Evap fans not turning on

Depends are you referring to the condenser fan or the evaporation fan? If it's the condenser fan you may have an issue with debris in the condenser coil not letting enough air flow to cool down so it will stay on to keep from burning up compressor.If it's inside the evaporator coil then it may be low on refrigerant possibly freezing up the evap coil making it run then kick into defrost run kick into defrost etc... hope this helps

Compressor should rapidly bring pressure down from standing pressure to running pressure when switched on. If no change, compressor not pumping. Make sure the line tap valve isn't leaking, and the gas you used was correctly charged.

On this video, Delfield refrigerator with freon issue (restricted system)

1) Check the compressor working or not.. Air cooling type condenser fan may be not working properly.
2) Compressor working but not properly. Last side of condenser (Filter) Light Heat or not.
3) Inside Cooling area do not get cooling. may be gas leakage problem.
4) My opinion check Gas pressure Low and high side.

Take the top cover off that is next to the compressor,. That cover is about 30 by 30 inches. You will see two fans and an evaporator coil. Several things can happen. First these fans won't come on until the coil is somewhere around 10 degrees or if the door is open. So, once the freezer has been running look under the big cover and be sure both fans are running. If one or both are not running it won't pull down to 0. Also look at the coils and see how much frost has accumulated. If your defrost timer is not working it may be frozen over. When that happens air is blocked from reaching the inside of the freezer. While you are at it, fell of the coils if they are only partially freezing, you may be low on freon. If you have gauges to check the freon charge, check both the high side and the low side pressures. If the high side is less than 200 psi, you have some freon, but maybe not enough. If the high side pressure is 300 psi, you have something blocking the freon from returning to the compressor. Usually a blocked cap tube or a malfuncting expansion valve. Finally check the condenser coils which is the radiator thing out where the compressor is located. If it clogged with dust and grease, it will not dissapate the heat from the freon and will intefere with the operation of the entire unit. Clogged condener coils are probably the number one cause of burned out compressors. Good luck.

start with checking the freon level. If too low, the txv will open and try to feed the evap. this can cause some overfeeding and give you some frost in some cases. It could also be a txv not feeding correctly. usually and overfeeding condition. causes frost build up on line and compressor and pressure in evap too high to remove the heat needed to properly cool. If a cap tube system, usually a sign of over charged or a real dirty condenser. In both cases, an evap fan, not properly working will cause a freeze up of the evap causing a high box temp and frost build up on the line and compressor.

start simple. be sure that the condenser coil is clean. you should be able to see all the way thru the fins. verify that the evap fans and the condenser fans run. make sure nothing blocks air flow inside the conditioned space and around the condenser coil and compressor.
Let me know if we need to go further.

The coil in the conditioned space is called the evaporator.
If the water droplets are forming on the ceiling around the evap, it is due, most likely, to the defrost cycle being too long.
Defrost cycle: compressor stops, evap fans stop, electric heaters in the evap come on to clear any ice/ frost on evap fins/ coil.
The ice/ frost melts and some of it turns into vapor. As it hits the cold ceiling surface, it condensates into water droplets. Defrost cycle could be too long. Usually 4 time aday and no longer than 30 minutes should be enough unless there is high humidity.
There could be another cause.
Normally, after a defrost cycle terminates, the evap fans do not come on, due to a delay control. This prevents circulating warm are due to the heaters. The compressor comes on and cools the evap down to, usually 20 degrees or so, and then the fans come on. What could be happening is, the fans are coming on too early and blowing the water driplet off the evap and onto the back wall of the unit.
A third item, is to be sure that the condensate drain is "P" trapped. The prevents warm, outside air from being drawn in and causing exess frost build up, thus excess water and vapor.

Good luck and hope this helps

Most all commercial freezers have some sort of fan delay/ defrost termination device. Commonly called a "Klixon" (pronounced clicks-on). It is a device that is attached to the evap. It's function is to terminate the defrost cycle when the evap reaches a certain temp, say about 50 degrees or so, to ensure there is no build up of frost/ ice on the evap. It then allows the compressor to run, and cool the evap down to a reasonable temp., say about 20 degrees, and then let the evap fan come on. It prevents overloading the compressor during a high temp condition, and it also prevents circulating warm air left from the defrost cycle. I believe this device is most likely your problem. With no air circulating, the box will no cool down.. I have seen them burn and/or slhort internally. They can come apart. too. I would look here for that problem. the True manufacturing website does not give alot of info on this piece of equipment, such as a wiring diagram but manuals are available.
Check this out and let me know how it comes out.

Check out "victory-refrig.com" for manuals, diagrams, etc.
Cap tube systems are "critical charge systems". Can be difficult to get right. You did not mention pressures that you had. The split on the evap vs.box temp is almost always 10 degrees for freezers. If you want a -10 box, your evap needs to be -20. As a general rule of thumb, you want the high side to be "ambient +30". This seems to work most every time. Your problem might be operations related. Them leaving the door open alot and so on. It could also be a problem with the evap fan or the control to it. It could also be that since there had been a problem with the unit, they are now constantly checking it. Could be checking during a defrost cycle. When your box is at 0 degrees, your pressure should be about a -10 and no less that a -15 degree for the evap. You may have to babysit this thing and see how far it will pull down. You may have a weak compressor. Also, I have had many Hobart freezers fail due to dirty condensers. This causes the oil in cap tube systems to gel and clog up the cap tubes. The only fix is replacing the cap tube. There are alot of variables here so be patient, it's not going to be a quick fix. One last thing, since R404A can fractionate, you really need to pull the charge out and weigh in the correct charge with virgin refrigerant. This will eliminate 2 things. 1, it will ensure the correct amount of refrigerant and, 2 no chance of having a poor mixture of refrigerant in the system causing inconsistant readings and performance.
Hope this helps. And remember, cap tube systems are performance measured by the amount of superheat just prior to the unit making temp and cutting off.