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If your Kenmore electric dryer has stopped drying, there could be several reasons why:
Check the Power Supply: First, make sure the dryer is plugged in and that the circuit breaker hasn't tripped. If you have an electric dryer, make sure the outlet is functioning properly.
Check the Thermal Fuse: A blown thermal fuse can cause the dryer to stop heating. The thermal fuse is usually located on the blower housing or at the dryer's heat source. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the thermal fuse.
Check the Heating Element: A defective heating element can also cause the dryer to stop heating. The heating element is usually located behind the dryer drum. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the heating element.
Check the High-Limit Thermostat: A faulty high-limit thermostat can cause the dryer to stop heating. The high-limit thermostat is usually located on the heating element housing. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the high-limit thermostat.
If the dryer will not turn off, the problem could be a faulty timer or a stuck relay. You may need to have a technician diagnose and repair the issue.
You need to test your element with an ohmeter. If its good , check your thermal fuse. If thermal fuse is open , replace thermal fuse and hi-temp thermostat
90% of electric dryers emitting cold air need a new heating element installed. If you've checked the thermal fuse, and verified the unit has around 220 volts of power, then the only thing left is the heating element. Typically costs around $40-$60. Can be done by you if you have basic electrical knowledge, otherwise call an electrician.
need to check vent system. restricted air flow
will reduce the amount of heat unit will give in result dry time will be extended. if no heat is detected then the thermal fuse needs to be replaced. thermal fuse blows when there is not enough air flow over heating element. meaning there is a restriction in the venting system.
thermal fuse kit.it is blowing due to improper ventilation.their is a clog somewhere from dryer to where dryer vents outside.thermal fuse is located at top of your elemnt cage.you will replace the thermal fuse and your high limit fuse at the bottom of the elemnt cage.but have your venting checked or swept out.
ok you moving in right direction but you jumped a step,,you already checked the thermal cut offf and the operating thermostat,,those where the two on the side of the heater housing,,you should have checked the thermal fuse and the thermistor,,they are on top of the blower wheel housing tuck a lttle to the left,,since you seem that you know what your doing just jump them out starting with the thermal fuse,,,keep me posted on the job
You will need to UNPLUG the dryer and remove the back panel to access. The heating element is located inside the heater box on the right-hand side of the dryer (facing from the back). Simply disconnect, the wires leads and remove the mounting screws to remove.
Now...you mentioned removing the thermal fuse. Did you check the thermal cut-out or the hi-limit thermostat? These components are small silver disc-shaped devices mounted on the heater box assembly. As you are facing the back of the dryer, the hi-limit thermostat is located near the terminal connections of the heating element. The thermal cut-out is located farthest away from the heating element closer to the top of the heater box. Usually when you have a no heat problem, it the thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, or heating element that goes bad. If the thermal fuse is bad, you generally have a dryer that not only won't heat, but won't even turn on. I hope I'm not confusing you. In a nut shell, there's a difference between the thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. If you had large accumulations of lint in your dryer, I would bet you have a blown thermal cut-out.
If you wish to check the parts listing yourself to make sure you have the correct parts, go to searspartsdirect.com, type in your model number and look under the "Bulkhead" heading. The thermal cut-out kit is what you need to order for a no heat problem. It's listed as item #1 (part #279816). This also includes the hi-limit thermostat. It is recommended by the manufacturer to replace BOTH of these components at the same time. The heating element is listed as item #14 (part #279838).
Look under the "view diagram" heading and you can see where all these components are located, using the exploded view of the dryer assembly. The thermal fuse you mention is listed as item #59 in the drawing and is located on the air baffle housing.
This is still an easy fix. I just want to make sure you're identifying the correct parts. I don't think you want to purchase parts you don't need.
I hope this helps you. If I've managed to confuse you, please post back with your questions and I can guide you in the right direction.
The usual suspect for a Kenmore HE that runs, but doesn't heat is a thermal cut-out or the thermal fuse. Although they are a bit more resilient, in some cases the heating element itself could be bad. The way to check:
1. UNPLUG THE DRYER, FIRST.
2. Remove the bottom kick plate on the front of the dryer.
3. Remove the blower fan cover directly under the lint screen. There should be a couple of 1/4" screws holding it on.
4. Directly behind the blower fan cover on top of the blower fan housing are two components. One is the operating thermostat, and the white one is a thermal fuse. The fuse is a one-shot fuse that must be replaced if it is bad.
5. To the right is the heating element housing. There are two additional components mounted on the side of the element housing. The component furthest to the back is the thermal fuse. The one one closest to you is the hi-limit thermostat.
6. Check the continuity of thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. They both should read a short. Additionally, check the resistance of the the heating element. The element should read something low (less than 20 ohms).
7. If the thermal fuse reads open, replace it. If the thermal cut-out is bad, replace the hi-limit thermostat with it. They are usually sold as a set. If the heating element is bad, you will need to disconnect all electrical leads and remove one 1/4" screw holding the element housing to the bottom casing. Pull the entire element housing from the dryer. Depending on model, sometimes the element slide out of the housing, sometimes you will need to remove a few screws to open it up.
I hope this helps you.
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